Taurus E-fan power supply
#1
Taurus E-fan power supply
I've got a Taurus E-fan(the 4k cfm monster) and I've heard these things suck power like no other. I've heard claims of 90amp initial draw but have no proof to it.
Is anyone running this fan? How do you have the power set up?
I was thinking 2 Bosch 30amp relays in parallel. Then a SPAL PWM to turn it on and off.
Is 2x 30amp relays over kill or not enough?
Then onto more hypothetical wiring. To help ease the alternator from the huge e-fan kick when it turns on... Use a large capacitor like a car audio one??
Is anyone running this fan? How do you have the power set up?
I was thinking 2 Bosch 30amp relays in parallel. Then a SPAL PWM to turn it on and off.
Is 2x 30amp relays over kill or not enough?
Then onto more hypothetical wiring. To help ease the alternator from the huge e-fan kick when it turns on... Use a large capacitor like a car audio one??
#2
FC guy
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I quote:L
Using a Fluke digital clamp ammeter, we tested the starting (or inrush) current draw and the operating current draw. The Taurus fan pulled a little over 130 amps on startup (only for milliseconds) and settled down to right around 40 amps using the high-speed wire. This is why you must upgrade to the bigger alternator and a Bosch high-powered relay.
quick article tells you how they wired it up:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/
Using a Fluke digital clamp ammeter, we tested the starting (or inrush) current draw and the operating current draw. The Taurus fan pulled a little over 130 amps on startup (only for milliseconds) and settled down to right around 40 amps using the high-speed wire. This is why you must upgrade to the bigger alternator and a Bosch high-powered relay.
quick article tells you how they wired it up:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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Paralleling relays does not increase their switching current. One relay will always make contact before the other. Thus it will have to switch full current. You just need a single large relay.
I don't know why you would run the FAN-PWM and a relay. They are mutually exclusive.
Honestly I think the Taurus fan is a very poor choice. It's well known to draw ridiculous currents for no good reason.
The GM fan that I have talked about before (found on the Pontiac 6000, Grand Am, big Oldsmobiles, etc.) works very well, fits the rad perfectly and only draws about 20A while running. Still pulls a big current spike to get started, but then again they all do.
I don't know why you would run the FAN-PWM and a relay. They are mutually exclusive.
Honestly I think the Taurus fan is a very poor choice. It's well known to draw ridiculous currents for no good reason.
The GM fan that I have talked about before (found on the Pontiac 6000, Grand Am, big Oldsmobiles, etc.) works very well, fits the rad perfectly and only draws about 20A while running. Still pulls a big current spike to get started, but then again they all do.
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#8
The SPAL site says the PWM controls up to 25amp draw. I didn't want to tax the pwm but I may be getting a HKS fan controller instead.
It has a digital coolant readout and warning function.
I already have the fan/FMIC/battery relocation. I just need the controller and I'm ready to go Front mount which is very much needed here in AZ. I could have grilled a steak on my top mount after a few laps around Firebird raceway.
I love stock fan but the front mount I'm using spaces the radiator back and will make the stock shroud hit
It has a digital coolant readout and warning function.
I already have the fan/FMIC/battery relocation. I just need the controller and I'm ready to go Front mount which is very much needed here in AZ. I could have grilled a steak on my top mount after a few laps around Firebird raceway.
I love stock fan but the front mount I'm using spaces the radiator back and will make the stock shroud hit
#10
Engine, Not Motor
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If you are going to use the FAN-PWM, do yourself a favor and use their temp sensor or another GM style sensor. Don't use the factory sensor. The FAN-PWM is VERY sensitive to voltage offsets and you will have a hard time making it work properly with the stock sensor.
The HKS controller seems like a good unit, but only offers two speeds.
I already have the fan/FMIC/battery relocation. I just need the controller and I'm ready to go Front mount which is very much needed here in AZ. I could have grilled a steak on my top mount after a few laps around Firebird raceway.
I love stock fan but the front mount I'm using spaces the radiator back and will make the stock shroud hit
I love stock fan but the front mount I'm using spaces the radiator back and will make the stock shroud hit
Of course the advantage with the FAN-PWM is that you can set it up to control an aux fan that comes on when the temperature reaches the high point. This fan can cool the oil cooler, intercooler, etc.
#11
I'm using rtek 1.7 so no ecu outputs for me.
The HKS one can also control water misting systems. I may take advantage of this and have a simple windshield wiper reservoir mister thing for the front mount or I'll use the reference signal to power a smaller fan on the oil cooler or both.
The car is mainly a drift and HPDE car now and it's 100-110 outside during the events
The HKS one can also control water misting systems. I may take advantage of this and have a simple windshield wiper reservoir mister thing for the front mount or I'll use the reference signal to power a smaller fan on the oil cooler or both.
The car is mainly a drift and HPDE car now and it's 100-110 outside during the events
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