I've got a Taurus E-fan(the 4k cfm monster) and I've heard these things suck power like no other. I've heard claims of 90amp initial draw but have no proof to it.

Is anyone running this fan? How do you have the power set up?

I was thinking 2 Bosch 30amp relays in parallel. Then a SPAL PWM to turn it on and off.

Is 2x 30amp relays over kill or not enough?



Then onto more hypothetical wiring. To help ease the alternator from the huge e-fan kick when it turns on... Use a large capacitor like a car audio one??

 

I quote:L

Using a Fluke digital clamp ammeter, we tested the starting (or inrush) current draw and the operating current draw. The Taurus fan pulled a little over 130 amps on startup (only for milliseconds) and settled down to right around 40 amps using the high-speed wire. This is why you must upgrade to the bigger alternator and a Bosch high-powered relay.


quick article tells you how they wired it up:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/

 

rock on. Thanks.

My buddy also linked me to a website that sells 70 amp relays. It shoudl hopefully take the quick surge.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=1#post8420311

 

Great post. Thanks.

 

Paralleling relays does not increase their switching current. One relay will always make contact before the other. Thus it will have to switch full current. You just need a single large relay.

I don't know why you would run the FAN-PWM and a relay. They are mutually exclusive.

Honestly I think the Taurus fan is a very poor choice. It's well known to draw ridiculous currents for no good reason.

The GM fan that I have talked about before (found on the Pontiac 6000, Grand Am, big Oldsmobiles, etc.) works very well, fits the rad perfectly and only draws about 20A while running. Still pulls a big current spike to get started, but then again they all do.

 

On the low speed the Taurus fan doesnt pull so much, i was using a 30 or 40 amp relay with mine and it worked fine.

 

The SPAL site says the PWM controls up to 25amp draw. I didn't want to tax the pwm but I may be getting a HKS fan controller instead.

It has a digital coolant readout and warning function.

I already have the fan/FMIC/battery relocation. I just need the controller and I'm ready to go Front mount which is very much needed here in AZ. I could have grilled a steak on my top mount after a few laps around Firebird raceway.

I love stock fan but the front mount I'm using spaces the radiator back and will make the stock shroud hit

 

low speed is plenty to cool a turbo FC.

i use 40 amp relays on mine and it works just fine.

when i switch on the HIGH mode i can see my volter meter take a quick jolt.

 

I've been told by the SPAL engineers that the FAN-PWM will control 30A worth of fan. That said, there is some contradictory information posted on their website, in their instructions and from the engineers themselves so who really knows what the real number is.

If you are going to use the FAN-PWM, do yourself a favor and use their temp sensor or another GM style sensor. Don't use the factory sensor. The FAN-PWM is VERY sensitive to voltage offsets and you will have a hard time making it work properly with the stock sensor.

The HKS controller seems like a good unit, but only offers two speeds.

This depends bit on your ECU, but with all my experiences with the FAN-PWM I would suggest a different approach. Get a small fan and wire it through a relay controlled by a temp switch just above thermostat temp. Then use an aux output from your ECU to control another relay which switches on a big fan if the temp gets too high (say, 95 degrees). Setting it up this way is about $50 cheaper then the FAN-PWM and is almost foolproof.

Of course the advantage with the FAN-PWM is that you can set it up to control an aux fan that comes on when the temperature reaches the high point. This fan can cool the oil cooler, intercooler, etc.

 

I'm using rtek 1.7 so no ecu outputs for me.

The HKS one can also control water misting systems. I may take advantage of this and have a simple windshield wiper reservoir mister thing for the front mount or I'll use the reference signal to power a smaller fan on the oil cooler or both.

The car is mainly a drift and HPDE car now and it's 100-110 outside during the events

 

If the car is mainly a track car, put the fan on a manual switch on the dash and turn it on when you light the engine.

 

I may just do that as a secondary switch/ac circuit. No ac but still have the ac wire