Ok, yeah it looks way better now. 🤞It starts now

 

The leds light up when positive is in abr and neg is on - battery post. Im not getting any signal from the ecu. I tried the key method and grounding the orange wire with no luck. How else can i test for codes?

 

If i can figure out what ecu pins go to the test connector then i should be able to test for continuity. Unless theres some more complexity to the circuit.. and if there is no continuity, could i tap into the wire to dcc1 and dcc2? Or since its an s5 ecu could i make a "check engine light" like the s5 is meant to have? I have various wiring diagrams but i dont quite understand them enough

 

Hey man. Back at 'er? I'm just looking over this whole thread again trying to find clues. Getting your car to spit codes would be a nice small victory and I feel like there isn't much in the way to accomplish that.
Did you hook up the ECU? I know some people don't hook up the 6 pin connector because they're all outputs anyway. 1I(Orange wire at the 2pin connector) is the ground "input" for self diagnosis. This pin MUST be grounded to initiate the diagnosis.

It sounds like you're not hooked up at the ECU. This could be quickly verified with a voltage test and key on. You should be reading something at both dcc1 and dcc2(4v? 6?... something like that) If 0v, it's probably disconnected.
1I will also test 12v when NOT grounded. If voltage is 0 then this wire is not connected.
Another thing to check is the B/Y wire at the connector -should be reading 12v.

Things to Do

Check and confirm that pins 1D(yellow),1F(Yellow, black), 1I(orange) are actually connected to the ECU.

If not then connect them. If they are then you have to test for continuity on all three wires. 1E is MIL and you don't have one so don't worry about it.

If you do this right you should be getting readings from the 6 pin connector.
I'm assuming at this point you do have the wiring diagrams because you'll need them to save your hair from falling out.

If you follow this to the letter you should be able read codes.

 

Did you ever try starting it with bit of gear oil down the plugs?

 

i have done the deflooding procedure a few times in a row followed up by putting motor oil in there with no luck. I can try gear oil though once i check for codes.

ill check the ecu and things oday, last i remember i wasnt getting voltage at most of the connector pins.

as far as starting a rebuilt motor, any tips on throttle position while cranking?

 

My rebuilt motor was a pain to get started! I had a fairly large street port and found that holding the gas about 1/4 - 1/2 open helped. I also used 90w gear oil pumped into both plugs. Definitely check to see if your ECU is even getting power, does the motor even try to fire?

 

One tip I know will help you is if you do get it started don't shut it off for a LONG time. You should let that thing idle/check for leaks etc etc.. all afternoon.Your engine needs to be running to wake itself up and work out the bugs.

EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.

EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.

 

Ugh I made this mistake, definitely run it for at least 2-3 hours minimum.

 

i hope it closes up too hahha. And last i checked it had no leaks when it was running, just a lot of smoke from an exhaust leak from the wastegate housing. Which is why i shut it down to inspect because oil had gotten in there from the rebuild and i thought i had an oil leak spraying oil down there. It had no gasket, i thought that was strange.

also it does try to start but cannot

 

After 30 minutes of peeling off excessive amounts of electrical tape and black glue in -5 degree weather i managed to get to some wires!



Theres the culprit! Lol yellow and black orange and just yellow

Im assuming the missing plug is the correct position for the 6 pin connector

Im going to have to clean out this black glue like substance they put in


These are the available pins.

 

Sweet. 1D=Yellow 1F=Y/B 1I=O.

Plug it in.
Ground O on 2pin connector.
Turn key ON.
You should be flashing at the very least a 55.

Edit: Your connectors look pretty mangled. Are they melted?? A wire on the 2nd connector looks discoloured to me in the photo. I definitely see two wires on the 2nd connector that have been cut or damaged somehow. I would tidy up your connections. That is the brain and the connections have to be sound otherwise you could find yourself chasing a ghost.

 

The connectors look like someone didnt know how to remove them and screwdrivered the hell out of it.
the wires arent melted but they are covered in a hard clearish black substance thats gonna be a pain in the a#$ to clean off. Im aware that this entire car is a wiring nightmare. As soon as i get it running, the first thing im going to do is fix all the wires and clean it up. Ill repair those wires though

 

****, 'anxiuos to see if you get any codes. Keep us posted!

 

I finally got time to work on it, i wired those wires to the ecu so now it flashes codes, i got a single code : 51- fuel pump resistor relay
The fuel pump turns on and pumps the proper pressure. Im curious if it has to do with the fact its been rewired into the back of the car.
Also i noticed if i leave the car for a day or so and prime the fuel system, its really noisy up front and sounds its purging air out if the lines, idk if thats normal for these cars.

When i get a chance ill take all the spark plugs out and do a major de flood then squirt some oil inside and see if it starts in this warmer weather. Then do another compression test

I find it odd that it could start fine before the rebuild even though one rotor had no seals. But now that both have good seals it doesnt want to, i wonder why that is

 

When you installed the CAS drive gear did you install it chamfer IN(towards front iron)?

I just went through this again and I'm starting to believe it's a timing issue.

In the first photo that you posted of the CAS position, do you see how your adjustment is maxed advance? Put it in again in that position and then adjust it so that the contact sits between the 1st and 2nd tooth on the bottom. If you stab it the same way as the first photo you'll have the adjustment that you need to retard it to that position.

See how in both photos you are lined up with the 2nd tooth? Retard the position so it sits directly in between 1st and 2nd tooth. That will be very close.

 

Ideally you wan to get it started and check it with a light.

Edit: I wanted to mention that code 51 is normal for an s5 swap. No codes is good.

 

I have the machined hole in the gear lined up with the pin on the shaft. I managed to get it started sevral times while giving it some throttle, but it ran rough and didnt sound healthy at all. Im going to borrow a compression tester and see what those numbers are right now, then crank it with a timing light and see exactly when its firing during cranking. Im curious if the pulley/ marks are wrong, since it doesnt match up when i stab it.

Unfortunately i previously adjusted the throttle body and i cant remember what screws a messed with. But im worried its out of spec and i cant find any way to check to see if its set correctly. I turned the idle up but initially i turned the wrong adjuster screw so im worried thats causing problems.

I know this is taking forever but iv been really busy lately and have a baby on the way, not to mention i bought a subaru forester xt for a family car that blew a turbo the day i bought it, so ive been working on that as well 🙃

But i am super grateful for the continuous patience and wonderful support from the community. I love this car and cant wait to rewire it and have an awesome fun little car ive always dreamt of having. Thanks!