mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guys,

Here is my situation, I am 17 years old and i got my 88 rx7 june of this year. It has been good to me as running goes, but last week it decided to die on me as i was going from a stop sign.

There was no signs of it deing it just cut out and died on the road, and i couldnt get it to start back up. The starter goes and it cranks but no combustion.

Right now it sits in my driveway. I have searched for fixes for rx7's that crank but wont start. I tested the fuel by spraying starter fluid into the intake while cranking with no luck, and i tested if it was getting spark and found out it was not getting any.

To test any flooding i did the: " pull the fuze" ,then with the gas on the floor crank it a few times and put the fuze back in and try and start trick with no luck.

I also tested the compression test and got bad results, 75 on each rotor. I heard on the forum that if it has bad compression it had a bad apex seal? and that requires a rebuild.

Im not sure if its that bad for a rebuild ,but i wanted some good adive on what steps i should take to get this rx7 up and running again. Like getting new plugs, wires, coils, or do a rebuild or should i just take it to my local car shop and have them look at it?

here is a video of it cranking and i do realize that the comp. fuze is blown, it was good untill today when i tryed cranking it with it in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmrDA...&feature=feedu

Thanks guys! I tried my best to not create a new thread but i just couldnt find anything! srryz :3

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box and also check the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse in the Engine fuse box as well as the 30 amp EGI COMP fuse.

mazda2211

I hope all works out for you

huyhuynh

Maybe check your ground wires?

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

I thoght is was weird that my 30 amp EGI COMP fuse blew today, maybe it went bad, probably going to replace that and i will check some other fuses to also see if they are blown.

Also on a side note, my father said it would be unlikely that since I have two coils that both would go bad so i think im throwing bad coils option out the door.

Been searching around alittle more on the EGI fuse problems and its sounding more and more like the problem im having..

satch

iTrader: (1)

The EGI INJ fuse powers the coils. The leading coil has one Black/Yellow wire and the trailing has two of them. W/key to on they should each have 12 volts to them.

The COMP fuse powers the ECU so no injector or coil firing would occur if that particular fuse was blown.

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

when you do get it running, someone has blocked off the BAC valve, I'm sure it wasn't you. I believe you'll like to drive even more with that re-installed. Good luck!!

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Ok so i checked the EGI COMP and ING fuse and they were both ok, went to test the engine fuse in the driver side box and I dont know which 15 amp it is.

There is no cover over the fuze box to indicate the right fuse so I just took a picture, and hopefully someone can tell me which one it is.

Now as i went to test the Leading coil Black/Yellow wire it read 13v and then went to test the trailing coil and it read 13v before my father grounded the meter with it in the wire and we blew the EGI ING fuse so thats got to be replaced.

Also i checked out the back of the alternator and saw some wire that looked a bit iffy...

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Get one of these.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...Light/_/N-2714

You can test fuses with them with the key on. Hook the lead to ground and touch the tip to either side of the fuse. If you have power to both sides, the fuse is good. Power to one side only means the fuse is bad. Power to neither side means it's not even energized.



You should definitely fix that alternator wiring. It looks like it was burned a while ago, but still needs to get fixed. Cut the wire out of the loom and trace it back to where it goes, then replace the wire. You may need to get a new alternator also, but any parts store will test it for you.

junito1

replace the engine bay ING fuse even though it looks intact.
Happened to me once. Looked like it wasnt popped. Changed it and it started right up.

Its like 1-2 $. Let us know if she starts again.

If it keeps popping.. it.. Then something is shorting out.. I once had a wire melt on to my downpipe.. which popped my ING fuse. BLew 2 of them till i saw that wire..

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Replaced the ING fuse and still no combution. gonna check the engine fuse now since I now know which was it is.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the EGI fuse(s) has voltage w/key to on then the Engine fuse must be good.

Since you have replaced the COMP fuse have you checked to see if you have spark yet?

Another thing to check is for voltage at the Brown wire at the TPS w/key to on as it should read 5 volts. If it does then the ECU is powered up properly.

And your Meter fuse should be 10 amps and it looks like it's 7.5 amps. This is not related to your issue though.

And try jumpering the fuel check connector to see/hear if the fuel pump turns on w/key to on.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

OK, I think you're going about this all wrong. Fuses are a good thing to check, but Jesus man, it's been a day and a half now and you're still looking at fuses.

Here's how ignition systems work:

There's this thing called a crank angle sensor (CAS). It has 2 little toothed wheels inside it. Essentially all it does is generates a very low voltage signal and sends it to the ECU. The signal correlates to the position of the engine. If it's bad, you won't get spark or fuel pulse.

Next comes the ECU. It takes into consideration a bunch of variables from all the engine sensors, and calculates when the spark plugs should be fired. It also calculates how long the injectors should be open too. But it doesn't stop there...

There's this thing called an ignitor. Sometimes they're referred to as ignition modules. All that thing is, is an amplifier. See, the ECU doesn't have the ability to pass enough current through it to the coils to drive them directly, that's why it relies on the ignitor's ability to jump up some current to build and collapse the PRIMARY magnetic field of the coil.

The coil is a transformer. Think of it like an electromagnet. It has wire wrapped around an iron core. Then, there's another bit of wire wrapped around it too, but they're not electrically connected. The "primary" side has fewer windings, and the secondary side has many... many more. This way, when voltage is applied to the primary side, it builds a magnetic field. The magnetic field induces a much higher voltage in the secondary side, which fires the spark plug. When voltage is tuned off of the primary side, the primary side's magnetic field collapses, once again inducing voltage in the secondary side of the coil, firing the spark plug again. Don't wrap your head around the inducing voltage thing, it takes a while to explain.

Now. Knowing what you know now, go get a wiring diagram and figure out what's gone wrong and where.

And for quick troubleshooting, get a test light. It really helps.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Got myself a Test light last night before I went to work and this morning I will test the TPS wire for voltage, and see if im getting spark now that I have in fact replace the COMP fuse.

Thanks for your guys's time so far! I appreciate it!

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Use the multimeter for checking 5v at the TPS. Anything solid state, use a multimeter or "logic probe".

junito1

Mario. HAve you checked for spark yet. Once you know you have spark and fuel... and it does not start its because its flooded and it will sound like there is no combustion.

Check. for spark and let us know..

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so with both a good EGI COMP, IGN, and engine fuse, i tried for spark and there is none on trailing plug.

noob question, I am a bit confused on which wire I should be testing for the TPS, There is a brown wire that goes from the TPS to a clip and that read like maybe 1v at max with the key to on. And there is another brown/yelllow wire going from the same side of the other clip as the other brown wire was from ,that read 12v. I tested them with the two clips unclipped, should they be connected?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The TPS needs to be plugged into the Emission harness because this is where the voltage comes from. If the TPS is disconnected then there can't be any voltage present on the pigtail side of the connector. With key to on and the TPS plugged in, either side of the connector will have no volts on the Black wire, 5 volts on the Brown and a small amount on the Green/Red wire.

Try getting spark on the "leading coil." Remove one of the plug wire boots from the coil bore and place the plug boot very close to the coil bore it came from and try to start the car and the small fractional space between the plug boot and coil bore should have spark present.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

With the TPS plugged in the brown wire coming from the TPS to the clip is getting it 's 5v,

Alittle confused with testing the leading coil, but I snapped a pic of what I did just to see if I was doing it right? haha sounds stupid

satch

iTrader: (1)

Lay the metal part just close enough to the plastic bore that it holds in place then turn the engine over and look for spark.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Yeah still not getting any spark.

Idk if this would have any effect on it starting but I had a radio installed 2days prior to it dieing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Nope.

Go ahead and disconnect the two wire plug at the leading coil and w/key to on measure the voltage on the Green/Yellow wire as the engine is being turned over by hand. This is achieved by rotating the alternator belt. When this is done the voltage on the G/Y wire will be 5 volts and then briefly read 0 volts and then back to 5 volts over and over in a repetitive fashion. The G/Y wire signals the coil when to fire. If the Black/Yellow wire in this plug has battery voltage w/key to on then the only thing missing is the signal to fire that comes from the G/Y wire so test it.

mario4817

iTrader: (2)

Tested the Green/Yellow wire and for the life of me could not get it to show a reading of anykind. I also used the test light and that didnt show anything also. I used a socket wrench to turn the power steering wheel which then turned the alternator belt.

I just realized I could be getting the spark plug wires mixed up ha... I know T is Trailing (Top plugs) and L is Leading (Lower plugs), but the numbers on the coils ..what rotor is 1 and which rotor is 2? (ex. T1 and T2)

Ive got a S4 Turbo II CAS should I replace it with the one in my N/A just to see if it went bad?

Carzy Driver

front rotor is T1, rear rotor is T2

satch

iTrader: (1)

And this test was done w/the key to on? And you have to make sure the Main Pulley rotates as the alternator belt is turned. Was this part done correctly? If the pulley didn't budge then the test will not indicate a proper voltage reading.

EDIT: I also made a typing mistake and meant to state that the G/Y wire should have zero volts which briefly then indicates 5 volts then back to zero volts and not the reverse as previously stated.