T2 cranking but wont start
#52
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Ebay is a click away. You're gonna have a hard time fetching codes with a meter. If anything you would need two analog meters hooked up at the same time, unless the digimeters react fast enough to observe a single pulse.
The error codes are sent to DCC1 and DCC2 at the same time if I'm not mistaken.
The orange wire in the green two pin connector must be grounded to fetch codes. You won't need to do the key thing.
The error codes are sent to DCC1 and DCC2 at the same time if I'm not mistaken.
The orange wire in the green two pin connector must be grounded to fetch codes. You won't need to do the key thing.
#53
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If i can figure out what ecu pins go to the test connector then i should be able to test for continuity. Unless theres some more complexity to the circuit.. and if there is no continuity, could i tap into the wire to dcc1 and dcc2? Or since its an s5 ecu could i make a "check engine light" like the s5 is meant to have? I have various wiring diagrams but i dont quite understand them enough
#54
Sucker for Punishment
Hey man. Back at 'er? I'm just looking over this whole thread again trying to find clues. Getting your car to spit codes would be a nice small victory and I feel like there isn't much in the way to accomplish that.
Did you hook up the ECU? I know some people don't hook up the 6 pin connector because they're all outputs anyway. 1I(Orange wire at the 2pin connector) is the ground "input" for self diagnosis. This pin MUST be grounded to initiate the diagnosis.
It sounds like you're not hooked up at the ECU. This could be quickly verified with a voltage test and key on. You should be reading something at both dcc1 and dcc2(4v? 6?... something like that) If 0v, it's probably disconnected.
1I will also test 12v when NOT grounded. If voltage is 0 then this wire is not connected.
Another thing to check is the B/Y wire at the connector -should be reading 12v.
Things to Do
Check and confirm that pins 1D(yellow),1F(Yellow, black), 1I(orange) are actually connected to the ECU.
If not then connect them. If they are then you have to test for continuity on all three wires. 1E is MIL and you don't have one so don't worry about it.
If you do this right you should be getting readings from the 6 pin connector.
I'm assuming at this point you do have the wiring diagrams because you'll need them to save your hair from falling out.
If you follow this to the letter you should be able read codes.
Did you hook up the ECU? I know some people don't hook up the 6 pin connector because they're all outputs anyway. 1I(Orange wire at the 2pin connector) is the ground "input" for self diagnosis. This pin MUST be grounded to initiate the diagnosis.
It sounds like you're not hooked up at the ECU. This could be quickly verified with a voltage test and key on. You should be reading something at both dcc1 and dcc2(4v? 6?... something like that) If 0v, it's probably disconnected.
1I will also test 12v when NOT grounded. If voltage is 0 then this wire is not connected.
Another thing to check is the B/Y wire at the connector -should be reading 12v.
Things to Do
Check and confirm that pins 1D(yellow),1F(Yellow, black), 1I(orange) are actually connected to the ECU.
If not then connect them. If they are then you have to test for continuity on all three wires. 1E is MIL and you don't have one so don't worry about it.
If you do this right you should be getting readings from the 6 pin connector.
I'm assuming at this point you do have the wiring diagrams because you'll need them to save your hair from falling out.
If you follow this to the letter you should be able read codes.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 02-13-19 at 11:49 AM.
#56
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i have done the deflooding procedure a few times in a row followed up by putting motor oil in there with no luck. I can try gear oil though once i check for codes.
ill check the ecu and things oday, last i remember i wasnt getting voltage at most of the connector pins.
as far as starting a rebuilt motor, any tips on throttle position while cranking?
ill check the ecu and things oday, last i remember i wasnt getting voltage at most of the connector pins.
as far as starting a rebuilt motor, any tips on throttle position while cranking?
#57
Bankrupt rotary
iTrader: (1)
i have done the deflooding procedure a few times in a row followed up by putting motor oil in there with no luck. I can try gear oil though once i check for codes.
ill check the ecu and things oday, last i remember i wasnt getting voltage at most of the connector pins.
as far as starting a rebuilt motor, any tips on throttle position while cranking?
ill check the ecu and things oday, last i remember i wasnt getting voltage at most of the connector pins.
as far as starting a rebuilt motor, any tips on throttle position while cranking?
#58
Sucker for Punishment
One tip I know will help you is if you do get it started don't shut it off for a LONG time. You should let that thing idle/check for leaks etc etc.. all afternoon.Your engine needs to be running to wake itself up and work out the bugs.
EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.
EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.
EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.
EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 02-14-19 at 11:03 AM.
#59
Bankrupt rotary
iTrader: (1)
One tip I know will help you is if you do get it started don't shut it off for a LONG time. You should let that thing idle/check for leaks etc etc.. all afternoon.Your engine needs to be running to wake itself up and work out the bugs.
EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.
EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.
EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.
EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.
#60
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One tip I know will help you is if you do get it started don't shut it off for a LONG time. You should let that thing idle/check for leaks etc etc.. all afternoon.Your engine needs to be running to wake itself up and work out the bugs.
EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.
EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.
EDIT: It's really important to be certain that you won't leak coolant or oil. You're hoping for NO leaks because if you have to shut down early that'll suck.
I will mention again that you have a "major" pressure differential between rotors. Enough that it might very well be the culprit of your no-start. Hopefully that gap closes up a bit after you break it in.
EDIT: Be sure to have lots of gas in the tank.
also it does try to start but cannot
#61
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After 30 minutes of peeling off excessive amounts of electrical tape and black glue in -5 degree weather i managed to get to some wires!
Theres the culprit! Lol yellow and black orange and just yellow
Im assuming the missing plug is the correct position for the 6 pin connector
Im going to have to clean out this black glue like substance they put in
These are the available pins.
Theres the culprit! Lol yellow and black orange and just yellow
Im assuming the missing plug is the correct position for the 6 pin connector
Im going to have to clean out this black glue like substance they put in
These are the available pins.
#62
Sucker for Punishment
Sweet. 1D=Yellow 1F=Y/B 1I=O.
Plug it in.
Ground O on 2pin connector.
Turn key ON.
You should be flashing at the very least a 55.
Edit: Your connectors look pretty mangled. Are they melted?? A wire on the 2nd connector looks discoloured to me in the photo. I definitely see two wires on the 2nd connector that have been cut or damaged somehow. I would tidy up your connections. That is the brain and the connections have to be sound otherwise you could find yourself chasing a ghost.
Plug it in.
Ground O on 2pin connector.
Turn key ON.
You should be flashing at the very least a 55.
Edit: Your connectors look pretty mangled. Are they melted?? A wire on the 2nd connector looks discoloured to me in the photo. I definitely see two wires on the 2nd connector that have been cut or damaged somehow. I would tidy up your connections. That is the brain and the connections have to be sound otherwise you could find yourself chasing a ghost.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 02-15-19 at 01:51 PM.
#63
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Sweet. 1D=Yellow 1F=Y/B 1I=O.
Plug it in.
Ground O on 2pin connector.
Turn key ON.
You should be flashing at the very least a 55.
Edit: Your connectors look pretty mangled. Are they melted?? A wire on the 2nd connector looks discoloured to me in the photo. I definitely see two wires on the 2nd connector that have been cut or damaged somehow. I would tidy up your connections. That is the brain and the connections have to be sound otherwise you could find yourself chasing a ghost.
Plug it in.
Ground O on 2pin connector.
Turn key ON.
You should be flashing at the very least a 55.
Edit: Your connectors look pretty mangled. Are they melted?? A wire on the 2nd connector looks discoloured to me in the photo. I definitely see two wires on the 2nd connector that have been cut or damaged somehow. I would tidy up your connections. That is the brain and the connections have to be sound otherwise you could find yourself chasing a ghost.
the wires arent melted but they are covered in a hard clearish black substance thats gonna be a pain in the a#$ to clean off. Im aware that this entire car is a wiring nightmare. As soon as i get it running, the first thing im going to do is fix all the wires and clean it up. Ill repair those wires though
Last edited by Jake87fc; 02-15-19 at 07:39 PM.
#65
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I finally got time to work on it, i wired those wires to the ecu so now it flashes codes, i got a single code : 51- fuel pump resistor relay
The fuel pump turns on and pumps the proper pressure. Im curious if it has to do with the fact its been rewired into the back of the car.
Also i noticed if i leave the car for a day or so and prime the fuel system, its really noisy up front and sounds its purging air out if the lines, idk if thats normal for these cars.
When i get a chance ill take all the spark plugs out and do a major de flood then squirt some oil inside and see if it starts in this warmer weather. Then do another compression test
I find it odd that it could start fine before the rebuild even though one rotor had no seals. But now that both have good seals it doesnt want to, i wonder why that is
The fuel pump turns on and pumps the proper pressure. Im curious if it has to do with the fact its been rewired into the back of the car.
Also i noticed if i leave the car for a day or so and prime the fuel system, its really noisy up front and sounds its purging air out if the lines, idk if thats normal for these cars.
When i get a chance ill take all the spark plugs out and do a major de flood then squirt some oil inside and see if it starts in this warmer weather. Then do another compression test
I find it odd that it could start fine before the rebuild even though one rotor had no seals. But now that both have good seals it doesnt want to, i wonder why that is
#66
Sucker for Punishment
When you installed the CAS drive gear did you install it chamfer IN(towards front iron)?
I just went through this again and I'm starting to believe it's a timing issue.
In the first photo that you posted of the CAS position, do you see how your adjustment is maxed advance? Put it in again in that position and then adjust it so that the contact sits between the 1st and 2nd tooth on the bottom. If you stab it the same way as the first photo you'll have the adjustment that you need to retard it to that position.
See how in both photos you are lined up with the 2nd tooth? Retard the position so it sits directly in between 1st and 2nd tooth. That will be very close.
I just went through this again and I'm starting to believe it's a timing issue.
In the first photo that you posted of the CAS position, do you see how your adjustment is maxed advance? Put it in again in that position and then adjust it so that the contact sits between the 1st and 2nd tooth on the bottom. If you stab it the same way as the first photo you'll have the adjustment that you need to retard it to that position.
See how in both photos you are lined up with the 2nd tooth? Retard the position so it sits directly in between 1st and 2nd tooth. That will be very close.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 03-29-19 at 01:28 PM.
#67
Sucker for Punishment
Ideally you wan to get it started and check it with a light.
Edit: I wanted to mention that code 51 is normal for an s5 swap. No codes is good.
Edit: I wanted to mention that code 51 is normal for an s5 swap. No codes is good.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 03-29-19 at 01:41 PM.
#68
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When you installed the CAS drive gear did you install it chamfer IN(towards front iron)?
I just went through this again and I'm starting to believe it's a timing issue.
In the first photo that you posted of the CAS position, do you see how your adjustment is maxed advance? Put it in again in that position and then adjust it so that the contact sits between the 1st and 2nd tooth on the bottom. If you stab it the same way as the first photo you'll have the adjustment that you need to retard it to that position.
See how in both photos you are lined up with the 2nd tooth? Retard the position so it sits directly in between 1st and 2nd tooth. That will be very close.
I just went through this again and I'm starting to believe it's a timing issue.
In the first photo that you posted of the CAS position, do you see how your adjustment is maxed advance? Put it in again in that position and then adjust it so that the contact sits between the 1st and 2nd tooth on the bottom. If you stab it the same way as the first photo you'll have the adjustment that you need to retard it to that position.
See how in both photos you are lined up with the 2nd tooth? Retard the position so it sits directly in between 1st and 2nd tooth. That will be very close.
Unfortunately i previously adjusted the throttle body and i cant remember what screws a messed with. But im worried its out of spec and i cant find any way to check to see if its set correctly. I turned the idle up but initially i turned the wrong adjuster screw so im worried thats causing problems.
I know this is taking forever but iv been really busy lately and have a baby on the way, not to mention i bought a subaru forester xt for a family car that blew a turbo the day i bought it, so ive been working on that as well 🙃
But i am super grateful for the continuous patience and wonderful support from the community. I love this car and cant wait to rewire it and have an awesome fun little car ive always dreamt of having. Thanks!
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