Jeff76

As the title states my rear adjuster spindle is stuck in my vented rear driver side caliper (746 L casting marks). I have searched treads read the FSM and most kinda gloss over the spindle removal part. One thread stated the adjuster should pop out after the snap ring is removed.

Perhaps I Broke something? During disassembly I noticed the e brake spindle/lever was stuck and with force, unstuck it. It currently has one dead spot where it crunches, otherwise it moves freely after soaking the caliper. Just the normal travel, not 360 degrees. The spindle lifts out and stops, assuming here the connecting link is still there. The adjuster spindle however is still very solid feeling. Page 11-38 of the manual is mislabeled at least in one spot. It also shows a log thin rod as the spindle in two places in that section. However, it shows a stopper right below that in the manual, as if the spindle and stopper are one piece? I do have the stopper and snap ring out, not one piece.

Any help would be appreciated. I do have an extra caliper in my parts stash if needed, if I am remembering correctly. I just don't want to trash a caliper considering refurbished ones are rarer than hens teeth. Also if my searching skills are terrible, please point me in the right direction.Thanks in advance.


At least 5,6 and 7 are labeled incorrectly, please correct me if I am wrong. Also the vented ones I have are assembled differently. The snap ring is in between 7 and 8. At least from what I remember. Not sure I found #9 maybe on the adjuster where I can't see, close to the e brake assembly?

Cardinell

I rebuilt my calipers fairly recently but I didn't document it so you'll have to excuse me if my memory is a bit rusty.

You are correct in saying that the service manual diagram is labeled incorrectly. The snap ring is UNDER the piston, and sits on top of the stopper. Once the snap ring is out, the stopper doesn't like to come out very easily.

What I did was spray a very small amount of penetrating fluid under the stopper, then threaded the piston slightly back on to the adjuster spindle (maybe 3-4 threads?). The piston has a machined groove near the top. I put some tape over the end of a flathead, and put the flathead under the bottom of the piston and used the caliper body to brace while gently prying up around the piston. Because the piston was threaded onto the adjuster spindle, this prying pulled the spindle out with it.


Also to answer another question about the FSM diagram, part #9 is an o ring that seals at the bottom of the adjuster spindle. Again, this diagram is all sorts of wacky. The second "piece" of the adjuster spindle you see (I think you're talking about part # 11) is part of the e brake mechanism. It's basically a small metal pill that sits in an angled hole. When you pull the e brake, it slides the pill up the angle of the hole, which pushes the spindle and piston out slightly, engaging the brake


Let me know if that helps! If not, I can try and draw a diagram or find some reference pics

Jeff76

Yes, this does help. I think my spindle is rusted in there. The amount of rust coming out of the e brake spindle is almost never ending while trying to clean. I put some Evaporust in there and it is helping. I was thinking of electrolysis since I have a setup now. I called a local industrial brake refurbisher and they said to stop for now and get more info to them such as VIN. I might send it off to see what they can do.

I will take off the other brake off and disassemble without forcing the e brake spindle. I will keep up with this in hopes it helps somebody else.

Cardinell

If it's that badly rusted, it may be time for a new caliper. But if you feel like you can get it out and rebuild it and still feel comfortable running it, go for it. I personally am never too careful when it comes to brakes.

E brake spindle isn't held in by much. One nut on top (I think it's a 19), and the spring will come off. Then the only thing really holding it in is the seal. It's in there real tight though.

Jeff76

The second caliper came apart much easier. I pulled the adjuster spindle followed by the ebrake spindle and the little pill inside. I don't believe you can pull that in reverse. I would have given up on this caliper not long after starting if there were easy to find spares. I will need to unbury my spare sub frame from a GXL auto trans and see what is on there. Hopefully the rear brakes are the same. I don't recall either set of the front brakes I have either, four piston would be nice but not likely.

Thanks for the help, I need to get this rear sub frame and associated bits, including the gas tank and exhaust restored. Now for the stuck rear axle spindle.

Jeff76

Good News:I have a full spare set of brakes, four piston fronts aren't in to bad of condition. The ones on the car could possibly be better, assuming they are four piston. As a second owner of this car, I don't think anything has been replced from factory except general maintainence stuff. Currently soaking the spare rear drivers with blaster, then possibly Evaporust before disassembly. The passenger rear is painted and ready for assembly.

Bad News: The local brake refurbisher in the burgh won't work on already worked on calipers, mind you, after already agreeing to do it. $250 for rear vented, $350 for front 4 piston fully refurbished, not sure about paint though. They will take them through the mail, and also have an indutrial grade ultrasonic cleaner. They mentioned it works really well on old carburetors.