2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

still vacuum leak??? need guru...

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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 10:44 PM
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still vacuum leak??? need guru...

Just to clear any confusing, this is for a Jspec turbo motor in a GXL with the NA harness. Some shop did it before i owned the car, so the wiring is all messed. I'm hooking up the microtech as soon as i get the car running properly.

ok i've spend so long trying to figur out where the vacuum leak is. Took the TB off for like the 4th time to check it. I still hear some sorta sound. It's not the sound that makes me think there's a leak, it's the idling.

It fires up fine everytime like a very healthy rotary with out flooding everytime. But it idles at like 3-3.5k for like 15sec or so, then jumps back down and does the funny bouncing idling thing engines do when there's a vacuum leak.

I also spend a crap load of time trying to find it with the intake cleaner ****. Don't hear any rev.

Now i said screw it and took the car out for a drive, it pulls harder then i've ever felt it, but like out of the 3 times i full throttle the car in first gear or 2nd, my car seems to just loose power for a sec at about 2-3k rpm (i didn't have interior lights hooked up, so i can't b sure) then it goes back to normal. I'm assuming this is because of the vacuum leak?

Does any one have any idea as to what vacuum line would cause the car to lose power for a split second at 2-3k under full throttle?

tia, i've been trying to figur out this problem for like the past 2 weeks...
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 10:50 PM
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btw, i ported the **** out of my TB. beyond the normal port and polish....
i'm not sure if this could be the problem with the bad idling. Cuz i can't even let the car decelerate with out kicking the clutch in, or let it cruise on it's own in low rpm
http://members.shaw.ca/ahyc84/FC3S/TB/IMG_2893.JPG
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Check your tps. Try turning the adjust screw for the bac valve all the way clockwise. Does it still do it?
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 11:45 PM
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Check and make SURE you have a turbo ECU, pressure sensor and afm.

Last edited by HAILERS; Aug 27, 2005 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 02:22 AM
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ya i checked the ecu, it's for a turbo rx7, it ran fine before i took off all the emission. btw, i don't have bac, cuz all emission including omp is gone. I thought it might just be a bad capped line, but i can't find one of those on there. Intake cleaner can't find anything...

i hear some sort of noise though, it's just i can't seems to find the actual leak if any. It's sorta possible that the sound is from the tmic...

any idea what line it could be if it cuts off like that at 2-3k?

my pressure sensor is plugged in, not 100% if it's NA or the turbo one though, cuz well...i don't have the parts number for the turbo one yet still

hm...where's the afm...

Last edited by ahyc84; Aug 28, 2005 at 02:25 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 02:25 AM
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You took off the OMP? That is not an emmisions item. Put it back on immediately unless you are running premix
Also, are your injectors and fuel filters clean? A stickey injector might cause the hesitation.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 02:46 AM
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i'm running premix lol. not that dumb :P

see, for fuel filters or any sort of clogs, it'd chug and stuff, but this funny idle is very regular and it goes up and down certain of times every few seconds. With a clogged fuel system, it'd probably die off. Like things that has happen is way too regular to be a fuel line clog. it has to be some sorta vacuum leak or possible some sensor not plugged. I did break my intake air temp sensor, but that shouldn't really come in to play in this i don't think...

n/m about the AFM thing. didn't know it was just another abbreviation for MAF sensor. Ya that's functional...last time i tried to run the car with out the maf, it woudln't even idle
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 08:10 AM
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The pressure sensor makes a difference when used with the wrong ECU. Write down the numbers and post them.

The AFM has a softer spring for the vane vs a turbo afm. Therefore the afm's vane will open faster/futher than a turbo one for a given.

There's only two/three vacuum nipples on a turbo manifold other than the ones for the bov and pressure sensor. So just cap them off. The bottom nipple on the rear set of nipples and the top two nipples on the front. Takes just a few minutes to cap them off.

Last edited by HAILERS; Aug 28, 2005 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 01:56 PM
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erm....i could seriousely only find 1 nipple on the intake manifold that i used forthe BOV and pressure sensor. where the hell r the other 2 !?!? :S


see the thing is, the car didn't idle like this before i took off the emission, even though the car has a lot of frankenstein stuff done to it. so i'm sort of doubting the wrong parts issue. However, i did break the intake air temp sensor(now that i think of it)...i'm thinkin that might be the cause of the lag at 2-3k? If it's the wrong part, then it's a easy fix for me, cuz MT is going in after this. I just don't want to throw the MT standalone on a not so healthy engine...

Last edited by ahyc84; Aug 28, 2005 at 01:59 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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A series four, USA turboII engine, has three nipples on the front and three/four on the rear, one above the other. They are just inboard of the BLACK SPACER b/t the throttle body and the intake manifold.

Series five might be different. Which series is it?.

A non turbo pressure sensor puts out 3.5 -4 vdc at atmospheric pressure. A Turbo pressure sensor puts out 2.3 to 2.7 vdc at atmospheric pressure. A big difference.

Removing emissions things shouldn't be a big deal. That metal tubing got it's vacuum source from only two nipples. The bottom two nipples mentioned in the para above. Block those two off and it's done as far a vacuum. The ACV only requires a piece of metal with holes to match the studs and a gasket. The same with the EGR if it had one. So there's only three differences as far as I'm concerned or only three places to look

Last edited by HAILERS; Aug 28, 2005 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 03:47 PM
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well,hm...well then in that case, all the nipples are covered. Do you have any idea which nipple does what by the black spacer between the TB & intake manifold?
Now i'm just thinking the other end of certain line coming out of the intake manifold nipple might be opened, since i removed all the emission.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 07:09 PM
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Series four or series five?

The intake manifold has one nipple b/t two of the oil injectors. It's for fuel injector air bleeds. If left open the only result would be that it is sucking unfiltered air vs filtered air. I'm stopping now. I've no idea if you have a series four or five.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 07:20 PM
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i have a s4 jspec motor. some difference, not that much. i didn't know which were for what, so i plugged the original lines back in to it...maybe this is my problem?
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