i posted a couple of weeks ago about a no spark problem and got one response, i give my props to that person that tried to help. like my last post i tested every thing from the fuses to the crank angle sensor, basicaly the whole starting system and fuel. everything is good checked voltage, signal and resistance but still no spark. any of you guys ran into this problem? im about to give up on this car!

 

ignitor? idunno just throwing stuff out there

 

spark as in
like starting the car?

 

as in no spark coming from the plug wires.

 

are you talking about the spark plug wires?
if thats the case
are you sure that your leading and trailing coils work
your spark plug wires work
your spark plugs?

 

i put new plugs in, as in brand new NGK's. plug wires are brand new also. i tested the 5volt square signal that should come out of the two wire connector(next to the trailing coil) that checked out good. all coils are good(resistance is 7ohms). im lost.

 

Did you check the EGI fuse?Also check the Grounds to the Coils,and the connections at the coils,CAS connection also...Do you get Trailing Spark at all?..I am sort of thinking that your leading coil is Shot.

 

i tested those as well. right now im leaning towards the CAS even if it has the right resistance. when i was first testing it there was no traling spark but the leading one sparked once then nothing.

 

With the spark plug wires off, are the coils sparking? You'll be able to see them throwing sparks without the plug wires on them. If you're suspecting the CAS, take it out and spin it with the ignition turned to on, but unplug your fuel pump. When you turn your CAS, it should give you spark. Have you tried that?

 

In your first thread you said you had spark on the LEAD. I gave you an answer on that thread that reads like this:

The CAS PRODUCES power, it does not RECIEVE power.

Trail coils are not close to being required for starting.

There's a free, online Factory Service Manual available on this site plus wiring diagrams.

This link more or less tells how the ignition system works: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

There's a self protection system built in the ECU that at times allows Lead spark but kills the Trail spark. IF the LEAD spark is good, then the engine isn't starting for some other reason than a spark issue.

If you have spark then you should be looking to see if the fuel injectors are getting batt voltage when the key is ON or better. Check them out on the small ECU plug. LIGHT GREEN WIRE, LIGHT GREEN/BLACK WIRE, LIGHT GREEN/RED WIRE, LIGHT GREEN/WHITE WIRE. KEY to ON, pull the small plug off and see if there is batt voltage on each of those wires ..................as a start.

The harness that attaches to the fuel injectors etc is the EM or emisions harness. I say this so you dont' get confused when looking at the wiring diagrams. The question is, what EM harness did you use on the engine? Turbo or non turbo?

There is a SEARCH function on this forum, with twelve thousand three hundred and twelve threads on *My car won't start*. You might look at those also. My approach makes more sense though.

 

unplug your air flow meter and try starting the car.

i had this problem once before. busted AFM gave me a headache for like one month untill i just unplugged it ***** nilly and blamo, it started.

try it out.

 

to hailers: the leading coil only sparked once thats why i eliminated the CAS(but still tested it for resistance, it checked out fine) after that it stopped sparking. i read a thread about pulling the CAS out and spinning it by hand, ill try this one before undoing the MAF. thanks for the help!

 

We've had several threads dealing with the spark only happening once. I don't remember any conclusions. Seems someone did pull the plug off his AFM and then the car started for a moment. The AFM was killing the ref voltage output inside the ECU, so no spark was being made. AFM is not used for initial starting, only after you get over five hunderd rpm. Sooooo, pull that AFM plug off and see what happens.

Yeah. Key to ON. Hold a spare CAS in your hand with it connected to the harness, then spin the bottom gear on the CAS. The sparkplugs should spark. You should be able to hear them or if you have a lead plug wire on/near a bolt on the left strut tower, you should see spark.

Doing it that way keeps you from wearing out the starter and battery. All fuses installed when you do it. Takes but a few minutes to do.

The only down side I see is if someone is clueless about installing a CAS.

 

if i pull out the CAS, what timimg mark should i align it to: yellow or red? i even opened the ECU looking for burn spots, but it looks ok. i really appreciate the help!

 

I probably don't really GET what you mean. To do what I explained above, you don't care one way or the other where the front pulley is. Matters not. The engine isn't going to start when you spin the bottom gear of the CAS. The only thing that will happen IF you remember to turn the key to ON, is the sparkplugs/wires will spark as you spin the CAS bottom gear.

When you go to put the CAS back in, later, then it does/will matter where the front pulley hash marks are opposite the fixed pin on the front cover and it will matter where the alignment marks on the bottom CAS gear is in relationship to the fixed mark on the CAS body.

Use a spare CAS instead of pulling your CAS out if you have one.

 

i finally got it to start, i took sircygnus' advice and pulled the MAF out and it turned over! apparently the MAF has the FUEL PUMP CONTROL CIRCUIT in it, y? i dont know but i disconnected it and jumped the two wire test connector on the R/F strut tower(BLACK/GRAY wire) and it ran. its drawing so much amperage that its not giving any voltage to the coils. thanks for all the help!

 

yeah. that maf really baffled me for like a month when the same thing happened to me.

 

It's probably the ref voltage wire on the AFM being shorted out. That same ref voltage goes to most of the sensors and is used by the ECU to produce injector pulsing and the spark trigger.

I'd look at the afm connector to see if it's buggered up. Or just buy another.

I also meant to add, the fuel pump should run independently of the switch in the afm when you HOLD the key to START.