Still Flooded after ATF method |help|
#26
UPDATE
Thx to all for the feedback, i just replaced the fuel filter and the upper fuel line attached to it******************
how do i know the primary fuel rails are working properly? im thinking of air hosing them or run them through with alcohol********
waiting on the guy thats cleaning my injectors but NOT flowing them so i dunno i might jus buy the ebay 550cc for 54 bucks each versus old injector failure down the line******s
Thx to all for the feedback, i just replaced the fuel filter and the upper fuel line attached to it******************
how do i know the primary fuel rails are working properly? im thinking of air hosing them or run them through with alcohol********
waiting on the guy thats cleaning my injectors but NOT flowing them so i dunno i might jus buy the ebay 550cc for 54 bucks each versus old injector failure down the line******s
You can also visually tell the difference between the 2 types of injectors by the spline on the bottom side of the connector. If the spline is in the center, you have a low impedance. If the spline is offset from the center, it is high impedance.
Here is an example of what I mean:
Again, I speak from experience here. I made the mistake of NOT checking this when buying a set of cleaned injectors, and installing them on my car. Fried the injectors and the ECU.
#27
Full Member
Thread Starter
Be careful when buying injectors (and I speak from experience here). Mazda switched from low impedance injectors to high impedance around the 87.5 model year. Make sure you get the right injectors for your year, if you're going that route. If you have a resistor pack below the airbox, your car needs low impedance injectors. If you don't have the resistor pack, you need high impedance.
You can also visually tell the difference between the 2 types of injectors by the spline on the bottom side of the connector. If the spline is in the center, you have a low impedance. If the spline is offset from the center, it is high impedance.
Here is an example of what I mean:
Again, I speak from experience here. I made the mistake of NOT checking this when buying a set of cleaned injectors, and installing them on my car. Fried the injectors and the ECU.
You can also visually tell the difference between the 2 types of injectors by the spline on the bottom side of the connector. If the spline is in the center, you have a low impedance. If the spline is offset from the center, it is high impedance.
Here is an example of what I mean:
Again, I speak from experience here. I made the mistake of NOT checking this when buying a set of cleaned injectors, and installing them on my car. Fried the injectors and the ECU.
Thank for the advice i will be mindful on purchasing injectors so far i haven't got the injectors back for install perhaps tmorrow.
#28
Full Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE**********************************
I got my injectors back and 2 out of 4 are damaged********
he plugged adapters on all 4 and one is Leaking severely and the other is "Arching******
mechanic recommend to throw all 4 in the trash and buy new ones*************
I see Rockauto Rebuilds Injectors by sending them in for service. has aanyone used Rockauto before?
I got my injectors back and 2 out of 4 are damaged********
he plugged adapters on all 4 and one is Leaking severely and the other is "Arching******
mechanic recommend to throw all 4 in the trash and buy new ones*************
I see Rockauto Rebuilds Injectors by sending them in for service. has aanyone used Rockauto before?
#29
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update
Update******
How do you align the fuel injectors in reverse order. My mounted pics don't do much help in alignment setpoints i have the FSM shows the way but does it?
Am I turning exactly at a 45 angle as shown below?
How do you align the fuel injectors in reverse order. My mounted pics don't do much help in alignment setpoints i have the FSM shows the way but does it?
Am I turning exactly at a 45 angle as shown below?
#31
Full Member
Thread Starter
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
******Update******
Prepping work for tomorrow i come along and find a mystery bolt & insulator around the nest.
Bolt doesn't look familiar so im not concerned
Prepping work for tomorrow i come along and find a mystery bolt & insulator around the nest.
Bolt doesn't look familiar so im not concerned
Last edited by divinefist81; 09-12-22 at 06:29 PM.
#33
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update**************
The car didn't start after installing new injectors
Installed everything in reverse order and I'm clueless
Any suggestions thanks
I heard 2 clicks for secondaries and no clicks for primary.
New injectors installed
The car didn't start after installing new injectors
Installed everything in reverse order and I'm clueless
Any suggestions thanks
I heard 2 clicks for secondaries and no clicks for primary.
New injectors installed
#34
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update*********
I attempted a fuel pump test with the YELLOW pin & jump wire
Car has half tank of gas...
Purged line without egi= no fuel purging
purged line with egi= no fuel purging
I hear the click click click with my jump wire and go around to check fuel line see if its leaking gasoline...
""no fuel purging""
At this point testing the fuel pressure is pointless if the fuel pump not pumping half tank gasoline
Do i have to remove the whole gas tank for the fuel pump replacement? Thanks
I attempted a fuel pump test with the YELLOW pin & jump wire
Car has half tank of gas...
Purged line without egi= no fuel purging
purged line with egi= no fuel purging
I hear the click click click with my jump wire and go around to check fuel line see if its leaking gasoline...
""no fuel purging""
At this point testing the fuel pressure is pointless if the fuel pump not pumping half tank gasoline
Do i have to remove the whole gas tank for the fuel pump replacement? Thanks
#35
Update*********
I attempted a fuel pump test with the YELLOW pin & jump wire
Car has half tank of gas...
Purged line without egi= no fuel purging
purged line with egi= no fuel purging
I hear the click click click with my jump wire and go around to check fuel line see if its leaking gasoline...
""no fuel purging""
At this point testing the fuel pressure is pointless if the fuel pump not pumping half tank gasoline
Do i have to remove the whole gas tank for the fuel pump replacement? Thanks
I attempted a fuel pump test with the YELLOW pin & jump wire
Car has half tank of gas...
Purged line without egi= no fuel purging
purged line with egi= no fuel purging
I hear the click click click with my jump wire and go around to check fuel line see if its leaking gasoline...
""no fuel purging""
At this point testing the fuel pressure is pointless if the fuel pump not pumping half tank gasoline
Do i have to remove the whole gas tank for the fuel pump replacement? Thanks
You don't have to pull the tank to replace it. Under the carpet in the rear hatch section (assuming you don't have a convertible), there's an access cover that when removed will give you access to the top of the fuel tank, and the fuel pump hanger
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Paul_Diaz_Photography1 (09-19-22)
#36
Full Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like your fuel pump isn't doing it's job.
You don't have to pull the tank to replace it. Under the carpet in the rear hatch section (assuming you don't have a convertible), there's an access cover that when removed will give you access to the top of the fuel tank, and the fuel pump hanger
You don't have to pull the tank to replace it. Under the carpet in the rear hatch section (assuming you don't have a convertible), there's an access cover that when removed will give you access to the top of the fuel tank, and the fuel pump hanger
Is this the only location I need to remove the fuel pump. Im not planning to remove the complete tank but if i do then suggestions are ok. I see a bunch of philip screws around it too i assume those come off.
Oh this pump is from a TT supra retrofitted on the fc
Series 5 fuel pump location non- Factory pump
#38
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update******
TYC crq fuel pump installed*****
fuel leak detected on starting *****
****; it's probably coming from the fuel main hose & fuel return hose below:
Pointing at #2
i made a video for viewers*********
https://youtube.com/shorts/OdUT5yFZ1gA?feature=share
TYC crq fuel pump installed*****
fuel leak detected on starting *****
****; it's probably coming from the fuel main hose & fuel return hose below:
Pointing at #2
i made a video for viewers*********
https://youtube.com/shorts/OdUT5yFZ1gA?feature=share
#39
Sucker for Punishment
Let me give you a few pointers when you're working on the fuel system.
This is the order you should've done things:
1. Jump yellow connector in engine bay(passenger side only yellow connector under the hood).
2. Turn key ON.
3. Listen for the pump.
Your fuel system, as you know, is a bitch to get at so you want to make sure you get it done right the first time. I'm not even going to get into the fact that your old injectors are probably fine.
This is what you should've done with your system:
Install your injectors.
Make sure all connections are tight and secure.
Jump yellow connector.
Look for leaks and tighten whatever needs tightening.
If you would've done this you would've known your pump was fried.
I can almost guarantee all 4 of your injectors were fine. I hope you still have them... those things are getting harder and harder to find.
Injector test for future testing/reference.
Connect one side of a 9v battery to one terminal of the injector. Take another wire, connect to the other terminal of the injector, and then tap the other end on the 9v battery quickly. If your injector clicks it's working.
Next , take a shop syringe(one maybe for mixing fuel, etc.) and fill it will brake cleaner and connect it to the injector. Try to push the plunger down. Is it leaking?
Next, have a friend click the wire on the battery as you plunge the brake cleaner through the injector to clean it. Do this over a bucket or shop sink. This should be done multiple times and you will notice the current increasing(great sign).
I hope this helps. You might find that all of your injectors are fine. DON'T THROW AWAY.
The Rx-7 has many diagnostic connectors under the hood that are there to save you so much time. I can't tell you how much time I saved just with that yellow connector. That connector is very very very useful for fuel system diagnostics and should be the FIRST thing that pops into your mind when you need to diagnose your fuel system.
This is the order you should've done things:
1. Jump yellow connector in engine bay(passenger side only yellow connector under the hood).
2. Turn key ON.
3. Listen for the pump.
Your fuel system, as you know, is a bitch to get at so you want to make sure you get it done right the first time. I'm not even going to get into the fact that your old injectors are probably fine.
This is what you should've done with your system:
Install your injectors.
Make sure all connections are tight and secure.
Jump yellow connector.
Look for leaks and tighten whatever needs tightening.
If you would've done this you would've known your pump was fried.
I can almost guarantee all 4 of your injectors were fine. I hope you still have them... those things are getting harder and harder to find.
Injector test for future testing/reference.
Connect one side of a 9v battery to one terminal of the injector. Take another wire, connect to the other terminal of the injector, and then tap the other end on the 9v battery quickly. If your injector clicks it's working.
Next , take a shop syringe(one maybe for mixing fuel, etc.) and fill it will brake cleaner and connect it to the injector. Try to push the plunger down. Is it leaking?
Next, have a friend click the wire on the battery as you plunge the brake cleaner through the injector to clean it. Do this over a bucket or shop sink. This should be done multiple times and you will notice the current increasing(great sign).
I hope this helps. You might find that all of your injectors are fine. DON'T THROW AWAY.
The Rx-7 has many diagnostic connectors under the hood that are there to save you so much time. I can't tell you how much time I saved just with that yellow connector. That connector is very very very useful for fuel system diagnostics and should be the FIRST thing that pops into your mind when you need to diagnose your fuel system.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 06-03-23 at 09:37 AM.
#40
Full Member
Thread Starter
leaking detected was found by the main fuel hose that connects to the fuel filter, oh godness that was easy but now shes not starting**********
how could the Lead plugs be soaked so soon after a new fuel pump install************
how could the Lead plugs be soaked so soon after a new fuel pump install************
#41
Full Member
Thread Starter
cars tarts for 5 minutes with marvel mystry oil
car started using 2023 Marvel Mystery oil; 1oz per Leading plug hole****************************
This time around i used a lighter torch to the Center Electrode for 30 sec each and Installed them before the plugs go in cold.**************************
White smoke for minutes ********
the sounds are BURPES not BRAPS and no PURRRR (maybe still flooded or apex seal )
Car starts the 1st time with help of gas pedal pressed*****************
car dosen't idle so will do process again tmorrow*******
This time around i used a lighter torch to the Center Electrode for 30 sec each and Installed them before the plugs go in cold.**************************
White smoke for minutes ********
the sounds are BURPES not BRAPS and no PURRRR (maybe still flooded or apex seal )
Car starts the 1st time with help of gas pedal pressed*****************
car dosen't idle so will do process again tmorrow*******
#42
Full Member
Thread Starter
*********the car starts every time with marvel mystery oil
******without marvel oil it doesnt start*******
*****runned it until 40f but won't HOLD idle ?
Ok guys ll start it again tonight to verify where the smoke coming from underneath the dynamic chamber. It doesn't smell like oil but coolant
Car sat for years so I figure it needs the marvel treatment until compression returns without me putting the damn oil everytime.
******without marvel oil it doesnt start*******
*****runned it until 40f but won't HOLD idle ?
Ok guys ll start it again tonight to verify where the smoke coming from underneath the dynamic chamber. It doesn't smell like oil but coolant
Car sat for years so I figure it needs the marvel treatment until compression returns without me putting the damn oil everytime.
#43
Full Member
Thread Starter
Okay ive done some diagnostics on the TPS and the readings are:
Narrow Range--->Closed---->Results 1.27
Narrow Range--->Full Throttle--->Results 5.25
Full Range--->Closed--->Results 0.95
Full Range--->Full throttle-->Results 4.95
Narrow Range--->Closed---->Results 1.27
Narrow Range--->Full Throttle--->Results 5.25
Full Range--->Closed--->Results 0.95
Full Range--->Full throttle-->Results 4.95
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Vader85
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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03-12-11 10:46 PM