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Still Flooded after ATF method |help|

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Old 04-14-22, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by divinefist81
UPDATE

Thx to all for the feedback, i just replaced the fuel filter and the upper fuel line attached to it******************

how do i know the primary fuel rails are working properly? im thinking of air hosing them or run them through with alcohol********

waiting on the guy thats cleaning my injectors but NOT flowing them so i dunno i might jus buy the ebay 550cc for 54 bucks each versus old injector failure down the line******s
Be careful when buying injectors (and I speak from experience here). Mazda switched from low impedance injectors to high impedance around the 87.5 model year. Make sure you get the right injectors for your year, if you're going that route. If you have a resistor pack below the airbox, your car needs low impedance injectors. If you don't have the resistor pack, you need high impedance.

You can also visually tell the difference between the 2 types of injectors by the spline on the bottom side of the connector. If the spline is in the center, you have a low impedance. If the spline is offset from the center, it is high impedance.

Here is an example of what I mean:


Again, I speak from experience here. I made the mistake of NOT checking this when buying a set of cleaned injectors, and installing them on my car. Fried the injectors and the ECU.
Old 04-14-22, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Cardinell
Be careful when buying injectors (and I speak from experience here). Mazda switched from low impedance injectors to high impedance around the 87.5 model year. Make sure you get the right injectors for your year, if you're going that route. If you have a resistor pack below the airbox, your car needs low impedance injectors. If you don't have the resistor pack, you need high impedance.

You can also visually tell the difference between the 2 types of injectors by the spline on the bottom side of the connector. If the spline is in the center, you have a low impedance. If the spline is offset from the center, it is high impedance.

Here is an example of what I mean:


Again, I speak from experience here. I made the mistake of NOT checking this when buying a set of cleaned injectors, and installing them on my car. Fried the injectors and the ECU.

Thank for the advice i will be mindful on purchasing injectors so far i haven't got the injectors back for install perhaps tmorrow.
Old 04-30-22, 01:48 PM
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UPDATE**********************************

I got my injectors back and 2 out of 4 are damaged********

he plugged adapters on all 4 and one is Leaking severely and the other is "Arching******

mechanic recommend to throw all 4 in the trash and buy new ones*************


I see Rockauto Rebuilds Injectors by sending them in for service. has aanyone used Rockauto before?
Old 09-03-22, 07:47 PM
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Update

Update******

How do you align the fuel injectors in reverse order. My mounted pics don't do much help in alignment setpoints i have the FSM shows the way but does it?
Am I turning exactly at a 45 angle as shown below?


Old 09-07-22, 02:35 PM
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I believe the 45deg is only a reference to make sure you can still connect the electrical connector to the injectors once everything is buttoned up.
Old 09-08-22, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wilfff
I believe the 45deg is only a reference to make sure you can still connect the electrical connector to the injectors once everything is buttoned up.
Thanks for info. Now i know what its referencing
Old 09-12-22, 06:15 PM
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******Update******


Prepping work for tomorrow i come along and find a mystery bolt & insulator around the nest.

Bolt doesn't look familiar so im not concerned



Last edited by divinefist81; 09-12-22 at 06:29 PM.
Old 09-14-22, 09:07 PM
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Update**************

The car didn't start after installing new injectors

Installed everything in reverse order and I'm clueless

Any suggestions thanks



I heard 2 clicks for secondaries and no clicks for primary.




New injectors installed

Old 09-16-22, 06:01 PM
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Update*********

I attempted a fuel pump test with the YELLOW pin & jump wire

Car has half tank of gas...

Purged line without egi= no fuel purging
purged line with egi= no fuel purging

I hear the click click click with my jump wire and go around to check fuel line see if its leaking gasoline...

""no fuel purging""

At this point testing the fuel pressure is pointless if the fuel pump not pumping half tank gasoline

Do i have to remove the whole gas tank for the fuel pump replacement? Thanks
Old 09-16-22, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by divinefist81
Update*********

I attempted a fuel pump test with the YELLOW pin & jump wire

Car has half tank of gas...

Purged line without egi= no fuel purging
purged line with egi= no fuel purging

I hear the click click click with my jump wire and go around to check fuel line see if its leaking gasoline...

""no fuel purging""

At this point testing the fuel pressure is pointless if the fuel pump not pumping half tank gasoline

Do i have to remove the whole gas tank for the fuel pump replacement? Thanks
Sounds like your fuel pump isn't doing it's job.

You don't have to pull the tank to replace it. Under the carpet in the rear hatch section (assuming you don't have a convertible), there's an access cover that when removed will give you access to the top of the fuel tank, and the fuel pump hanger
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Old 10-12-22, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cardinell
Sounds like your fuel pump isn't doing it's job.

You don't have to pull the tank to replace it. Under the carpet in the rear hatch section (assuming you don't have a convertible), there's an access cover that when removed will give you access to the top of the fuel tank, and the fuel pump hanger
UPDATE*******

Is this the only location I need to remove the fuel pump. Im not planning to remove the complete tank but if i do then suggestions are ok. I see a bunch of philip screws around it too i assume those come off.

Oh this pump is from a TT supra retrofitted on the fc


Series 5 fuel pump location non- Factory pump
Old 10-14-22, 12:16 AM
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Update*****

Removed pump easy does it

I was told this was off a TT supra fuel pump; can it be verified with the sticker


Old 06-03-23, 03:13 AM
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Update******
TYC crq fuel pump installed*****
fuel leak detected on starting *****
****; it's probably coming from the fuel main hose & fuel return hose below:

Pointing at #2
i made a video for viewers*********



https://youtube.com/shorts/OdUT5yFZ1gA?feature=share
Old 06-03-23, 09:28 AM
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Let me give you a few pointers when you're working on the fuel system.

This is the order you should've done things:

1. Jump yellow connector in engine bay(passenger side only yellow connector under the hood).
2. Turn key ON.
3. Listen for the pump.


Your fuel system, as you know, is a bitch to get at so you want to make sure you get it done right the first time. I'm not even going to get into the fact that your old injectors are probably fine.

This is what you should've done with your system:

Install your injectors.
Make sure all connections are tight and secure.
Jump yellow connector.
Look for leaks and tighten whatever needs tightening.

If you would've done this you would've known your pump was fried.

I can almost guarantee all 4 of your injectors were fine. I hope you still have them... those things are getting harder and harder to find.

Injector test for future testing/reference.

Connect one side of a 9v battery to one terminal of the injector. Take another wire, connect to the other terminal of the injector, and then tap the other end on the 9v battery quickly. If your injector clicks it's working.

Next , take a shop syringe(one maybe for mixing fuel, etc.) and fill it will brake cleaner and connect it to the injector. Try to push the plunger down. Is it leaking?

Next, have a friend click the wire on the battery as you plunge the brake cleaner through the injector to clean it. Do this over a bucket or shop sink. This should be done multiple times and you will notice the current increasing(great sign).

I hope this helps. You might find that all of your injectors are fine. DON'T THROW AWAY.

The Rx-7 has many diagnostic connectors under the hood that are there to save you so much time. I can't tell you how much time I saved just with that yellow connector. That connector is very very very useful for fuel system diagnostics and should be the FIRST thing that pops into your mind when you need to diagnose your fuel system.

Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 06-03-23 at 09:37 AM.
Old 06-11-23, 02:41 AM
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leaking detected was found by the main fuel hose that connects to the fuel filter, oh godness that was easy but now shes not starting**********
how could the Lead plugs be soaked so soon after a new fuel pump install************
Old 09-05-23, 11:58 PM
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cars tarts for 5 minutes with marvel mystry oil

car started using 2023 Marvel Mystery oil; 1oz per Leading plug hole****************************
This time around i used a lighter torch to the Center Electrode for 30 sec each and Installed them before the plugs go in cold.**************************

White smoke for minutes ********

the sounds are BURPES not BRAPS and no PURRRR (maybe still flooded or apex seal )


Car starts the 1st time with help of gas pedal pressed*****************

car dosen't idle so will do process again tmorrow*******
Old 12-09-23, 03:47 PM
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*********the car starts every time with marvel mystery oil
******without marvel oil it doesnt start*******
*****runned it until 40f but won't HOLD idle ?

Ok guys ll start it again tonight to verify where the smoke coming from underneath the dynamic chamber. It doesn't smell like oil but coolant


Car sat for years so I figure it needs the marvel treatment until compression returns without me putting the damn oil everytime.
Old 12-29-23, 05:54 PM
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Okay ive done some diagnostics on the TPS and the readings are:


Narrow Range--->Closed---->Results 1.27
Narrow Range--->Full Throttle--->Results 5.25

Full Range--->Closed--->Results 0.95
Full Range--->Full throttle-->Results 4.95



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