Starting problem again...
Starting problem again...
Hey guys as most of you know I had a flooding problem awhile back and installed a fuel cut off switch. So that worked awesome for awhile and eventually it started to get harder and harder to start, and I had assumed the plugs were ready to be changed again. So i just waited since I was getting my FMIC, which I just got this past Friday and finally finished it today. So when I went out to start it, it started alright, not too bad. And I am also having a BOV problem, so me and my brother were messing with the bov and we moved the diaphragm inside and it shut it off. And since then, its been so hard to crank it. Taking abou 15-20 mins to turn on. And just cant get it to turn on now. Any ideas?
If the compression was bad, would it be able to start, idle fine, and drive fine? No, right?
Well, I jumped the car with my mom's car and it didnt take as long to start it. So it might just be the battery... LOL! But my other question is, I relocated the battery behind the passenger seat in the cabinet, and would a BAD ground, have anything to do with the start? When I connected the ground, i found a screw in there that I just connected it too, but i noticed that when I tightened it down, the screw wouldnt really tighten down... So would that be a problem as well?
Well, I jumped the car with my mom's car and it didnt take as long to start it. So it might just be the battery... LOL! But my other question is, I relocated the battery behind the passenger seat in the cabinet, and would a BAD ground, have anything to do with the start? When I connected the ground, i found a screw in there that I just connected it too, but i noticed that when I tightened it down, the screw wouldnt really tighten down... So would that be a problem as well?
a bad ground could do this, relocate it and replace the battery as well. Get a compression check anyways just to get it out of the way and see if you need to save for a rebuild or just keep throwing money at little problems. If the compression is bad, it can still start, idle and run until eventually it just gives out.
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a bad ground could do this, relocate it and replace the battery as well. Get a compression check anyways just to get it out of the way and see if you need to save for a rebuild or just keep throwing money at little problems. If the compression is bad, it can still start, idle and run until eventually it just gives out.
Well, I thought it was it, but still takes awhile to crank. But cranks up everytime now. Well my ground was not that good, but I re-did it and put a new battery in. But still takes a little bit to crank... Any other ideas why?
You know what man, you might be right. If that is possible to cause hard starts. My bov is leaking. I turned on my car and sprayed some carb+choke cleaner and it idled a little funny for a sec. Thats why I am looking for another RFL bov. So can a BOV really cause a harder start?
Probably because of the air its taking in thats not passing through the maf sensor(assuming you have it) Thats what my car did the bov was to loss and let air in causing it to flood alot and hard start up but i can be wrong
Well, I re-grounded the battery. I got a 'newer' one and it did it again today at the gas station. It took me about 10-15 min to start it again. What would cause this? The battery worked for awhile with it re-grounded, but it started again. I actually got this battery off my buddies 2006 Evo and replaced his battery within a year for a Performance battery. So the factory battery still has to be good, in my opinion. But what else can cause this problem??? I hate it! I have not replaced the BOV yet, cause it has not gotten here yet, which should be here within the next 3 days. Please, any THOUGHTS??????
lol, that seems to be a re-occuring question in this mess. I don't think a leaking BOV would cause a starting issue, if anything more air would make it start quicker. Get a compression test man, just to settle it once and for all so we can stop asking you, then look for hot start issues.
Our car was dying at stop signs (S5, NA, AT) and it turned out to be the alternator Who woulda thunk?.
Since your car started with the "newer" battery then after a while stopped, it might be worth pulling the alternator and getting it checked at AutoZone, Advanced, Oreilly's , etc. Advance checked our for free. I believe they all do it for free. Plus, our dying alternator killed the battery too.
Since your car started with the "newer" battery then after a while stopped, it might be worth pulling the alternator and getting it checked at AutoZone, Advanced, Oreilly's , etc. Advance checked our for free. I believe they all do it for free. Plus, our dying alternator killed the battery too.
Well I am gonna pull it off and take it to the Advance I work at. LOL! So I will get it tested. I dont have a compression tester, but I guess I can buy one. I will let you guys know. But since I dont have a compression tester, I will get my alternator tested.
1. Check alternator
2. Clean plugs and put oil in chambers
3. Try to crank with EGI fuse out
4. Reconnect and see what happens
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Need help. Dont have a car to drive....



