Starter won't crank! Help!!
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Starter won't crank! Help!!
Ok guys, after like 6 months of this, I am finally ready to start my engine tonight. I got everything put together and ready to go. But when I turn the key, nothing happens. There is a slight click noise coming from somewhere, but I do not know where. All the fuses in the driver footwell are good, and so are the main fuses in the engine bay. The big ground wire is attached to the bolt between the engine and tranny above the one the starter bolts to, and the starter wires are connected. All the other electricals, other than the headlights (retractor motors do work) work perfectly. The battery cables are firmly secure in position.
Anyone got any ideas on what is keeping it from trying to start? I know the starter was good when I took it out 6 months ago.
Also, my clutch line isn't bled, but pushing the pedal to the floor should work anyway right?
Thanks for any help!
Anyone got any ideas on what is keeping it from trying to start? I know the starter was good when I took it out 6 months ago.
Also, my clutch line isn't bled, but pushing the pedal to the floor should work anyway right?
Thanks for any help!
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my god. i keep contradicting myself.
I DO have spark. I just couldn't see it. I only tested front leading though (is that enough?)
So I guess its fuel?
How long do I need to let the fuel system prime before it will be sufficient to start?
I DO have spark. I just couldn't see it. I only tested front leading though (is that enough?)
So I guess its fuel?
How long do I need to let the fuel system prime before it will be sufficient to start?
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Should be okay in just a matter of seconds .. maybee 30. Don't flood it ... don't hit the gas when staring .... they flood super easy with the low compression of a fresh rebuild.
For right now I would say just testing the leading plug is okay .. if you try other things and still no start .. i would check the other plugs to be sure. If you have a timming light its alot easier to check each plug, in seconds
For right now I would say just testing the leading plug is okay .. if you try other things and still no start .. i would check the other plugs to be sure. If you have a timming light its alot easier to check each plug, in seconds
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Ok, another update.
I got starter fluid, and sprayed a little in the intake. It will start up for like a second then die. And alot of white smoke is coming out of the exhaust (only back to cat, no catback on). I have been priming the fuel lines, and it still won't start.
Any more ideas?
I got starter fluid, and sprayed a little in the intake. It will start up for like a second then die. And alot of white smoke is coming out of the exhaust (only back to cat, no catback on). I have been priming the fuel lines, and it still won't start.
Any more ideas?
#9
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How old is the Gas? I had to change my 2 year old gas. Do you have a feul pump cutoff installed yet? it works really well, hit it with starter fluid at WOT, with fuel pump off... then as soon as it fires with starting fuild turn pump on and it should continue to run.
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The gas is probably 6 months.
I don't have a fuel cutoff.
But heres what I have found recently.
I took out all the plugs, pulled the EGI fuse, and cranked it over. A LOT of gas came out of the front rotor, and nothing came out the rear. I'm not sure if it was starter fluid or gas, but it was a lot of something.
Does timing have anything to do with this? Cause what I did to start was pull out the CAS, line up the arrows, put the crank to the yellow mark, and dropped the CAS back in. Is that right? Could that be a problem?
Im worried about cranking it over w/o it running for too much longer cause I don't wanna damage the engine.
I don't have a fuel cutoff.
But heres what I have found recently.
I took out all the plugs, pulled the EGI fuse, and cranked it over. A LOT of gas came out of the front rotor, and nothing came out the rear. I'm not sure if it was starter fluid or gas, but it was a lot of something.
Does timing have anything to do with this? Cause what I did to start was pull out the CAS, line up the arrows, put the crank to the yellow mark, and dropped the CAS back in. Is that right? Could that be a problem?
Im worried about cranking it over w/o it running for too much longer cause I don't wanna damage the engine.
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6 months is no biggy at all. Check all your gauges, OIl pressure for sure when cranking .. make sure your are getting decent oil pressure and you can pretty safely crank away. BUT, make sure you are close in time and everything else.. or that can cause damage. Sound slike you did the CAS right .. but pop the top cover off it while you do this .. so you can watch and make sure it does not move once you drop it down in there. I am sure by now you are heavily flooded. new engines flood at the drop of a dime I have been told (weak compression at first) I would make a Fuel cut if I were you .. 10 min rig. and do what I said above .. after cleaning the plugs and double checking the CAS... and it wont hurt to pop in a little bit of ATF .. to help with the inital compression.
ALso pull your dipstick and give a good sniff test for fuel, that will tell you how bad your flooding .. I ghad to change my brand new oil mine flooded so bad, it was badly thinned.
ALso pull your dipstick and give a good sniff test for fuel, that will tell you how bad your flooding .. I ghad to change my brand new oil mine flooded so bad, it was badly thinned.
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Hey, I just read in your other post, that you were only getting fuel to one rotor as well. You switched the injectors?
How do I know which is a primary and which is a secondary from looking at them? I'll have to try that part too.
How do I know which is a primary and which is a secondary from looking at them? I'll have to try that part too.
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That was a fluke thing .. I would not go to that extreme yet. TII's have the same primary and secondasry injectors... so they are all the same .. just DONT get the plugs mixed up. .. If you want to go over a few things you can always give me a call .. im only in Stockton.
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Ok, I have not been able to confirm which plugs go to which injectors, cause I do not have a wiring diagram. But heres how I have em hooked up now:
Front Primary - Light Green Wire w/ No Stripe
Front Secondary - Light Green Wire w/ White Stripe
Rear Primary - Light Green Wire w/ Black Stripe
Rear Secondary - Light Green Wire w/ Red Stripe
And maybe I'll try givin ya a call tomorrow, but I aint ready to get way into this tonight. I gotta go to work early tomorrow.
Front Primary - Light Green Wire w/ No Stripe
Front Secondary - Light Green Wire w/ White Stripe
Rear Primary - Light Green Wire w/ Black Stripe
Rear Secondary - Light Green Wire w/ Red Stripe
And maybe I'll try givin ya a call tomorrow, but I aint ready to get way into this tonight. I gotta go to work early tomorrow.
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Ok, another thing on the CAS
You say take the top off and drop it in so I know it stays lined up.
So I lined it up, and drop it in, but it doesn't wanna go in exactly where it is lined up, cause it hits the gear inside. So is it ok to put it in as close as it goes, and then turn the who CAS once it is in the whole until the gear inside lines up the way it should be? Or does that screw up the timing?
You say take the top off and drop it in so I know it stays lined up.
So I lined it up, and drop it in, but it doesn't wanna go in exactly where it is lined up, cause it hits the gear inside. So is it ok to put it in as close as it goes, and then turn the who CAS once it is in the whole until the gear inside lines up the way it should be? Or does that screw up the timing?
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Im not sure I understand what your saying ... Line up TDC, Yellow idicator. Pop out CAS, line up the dot on the gear with the line on the body of the CAS. Drop it strait down with the timing adjustment area... over the screw that holds it. It will not drop startit down .. but get it in the closest gear, then just turn it a fraction one way or the other to line up the bolt that holds the timing .. as close as you can get to where it used to be... I.E. is there a ring you can see where it was once set. That should get you close enogh to start it up.
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Originally posted by Rpeck
Im not sure I understand what your saying ... Line up TDC, Yellow idicator. Pop out CAS, line up the dot on the gear with the line on the body of the CAS. Drop it strait down with the timing adjustment area... over the screw that holds it. It will not drop startit down .. but get it in the closest gear, then just turn it a fraction one way or the other to line up the bolt that holds the timing .. as close as you can get to where it used to be... I.E. is there a ring you can see where it was once set. That should get you close enogh to start it up.
Im not sure I understand what your saying ... Line up TDC, Yellow idicator. Pop out CAS, line up the dot on the gear with the line on the body of the CAS. Drop it strait down with the timing adjustment area... over the screw that holds it. It will not drop startit down .. but get it in the closest gear, then just turn it a fraction one way or the other to line up the bolt that holds the timing .. as close as you can get to where it used to be... I.E. is there a ring you can see where it was once set. That should get you close enogh to start it up.
And I don't wanna push start it cause I don't want it to over rev and ruin the engine.
Im convinced it is something with the injectors cause the front is getting gas, and the rear is not.
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