Rpeck

Well, I tried to fire the rebuild up this weekend. No luck, First I just cranked it over… it just spun & spun.. little spit, little sputter. Then I went to a post I saw that Hailers posted. I popped the top off the CAS, reinstalled it to make sure it didn’t move, and tried again nothing. Got my timing light out .. checked for fire at each plug, I had a good even fire. So, I assumed fuel problem, took the TID off the air box and hit it with a little starting fluid, spit sputter but nothing dramatic. So, I though .. okay its flooding. I made myself a fuel pump cut-off switch and wired it to the fuel pump. Did the ATF un-flood trick, got my self 4 brand new NGK plugs & changed the thinned oil to a new batch. Still nothing dramatic. So I went and got tow ropes, had a buddy tow me around the corner for 2 or 3 miles… I got a little bit of starting hesitation & bucking .. but nothing more. I had full Oil pressure, and all the warning lights went off.. I was towing it in second gear nothing over 3k RPM’s. Its didn’t fire that way for I pulled it back in the garage. I double checked all the obvious. Plug wires in the correct location, CAS installed correctly, Listened for the fuel pump once I turned on my cut off switch, made sure I had the leading and trailing plugs in the correct location, checked for all vacuum lines, and electrical connectors. I know I am missing some other things I have checked out .. but that’s a good start.

SO, today I went and got a compression tester .. Since I did the rebuild myself .. to make sure. I was getting 90ish on 3 even bumps in the rear, and 95ish on 3 even bumps in the front. Kind of low for a new motor but I assume that’s because it’s not at all broken in yet. At this point I am open for any and all suggestions. I have a new Walboro 255LPH pump I need to install, I thing I will pop that in and do the rewire at the same time tomorrow, Just to be sure. What I am thinking now… is something on this car failed to cause the original owner to blow that rear apex seal. It’s quite possible that the problem that caused the original failure still exists. (Open for suggestions on this also) Another very odd this is; after cranking for 5-12 seconds I get a LOUD clicking notice from the upper intake area of the car.. And then it seems to spit and sputter a little better? No idea what that **** is.

SO, ask away, I will answer .. post anything you might think will help,

I appreciate it,
Robert

Rpeck

Another thing ... I drained all 8+ gallons of old fuel the car had .. (wasn't sure how long the other gas had been sitting) Added 5 gallons of fresh California's best 91 octane fuel. I popped a little MMO in with it also .. to help out with compression I had hoped. Though I still have the factory oil injectors in place.

Another thing; will the stock fuel pump cut off when optimal pressure is reached? Sometime I don't hear the fuel pump even when I had my switch on.

Silver88GXL

Have you checked to make sure that there are no vaccume leaks? Missed some bolts tightening the manifold(s) down?

What about the FPR vaccume hose and solenoid? Do you have the fuel lines hooked up properly on the vaccume rack?

Carl
88GXL
99 Dakota

Rpeck

Well, I re-did ALL the vacuum lines as I rebuilt the car. But I blew smoke from the soliniod hoses to the other end, to make sure that .. smoke was comming out the other end of the hose that the siliniod corosponed with. So I think thats all okay. I have the fuel line from the filter going to the (outer most towards the front, hard lines) And its a brand new fuel filter. I have tripple checked all lines for Vacuum leaks .. i don't see, or hear any.

Manifold, 4 nuts around the gasket, 1 long bolt in the middle and 1 nut on a stud near the drivers side.. thats all right?

Another thing to add; I pull the plugs and they are quite black'ish coated. I clean them up and redo ... but each time I pull I get the same black'ish look. Then again its not starting to burn that **** off either.

Silkworm

did you prime the fuel system??????????? Getting a sputter when adding starting fluid sounds to me like no fuel.

PaulC

Rpeck

Well initiallly I know I was getting fuel .. way too much. I had to change the oil casue its smelled fuelish, and was thinned. But I get the same sputter without the starting fluid (at times) ...... the problem is I get nothing but a sputter no matter what i try to do. BTW: the fuel injectors were profesionally rebuild and serviced, before I put them in.

Paul,

Is there somthing particular I have to do to prep a fuel injection system? I have never rebuilt a fuel injected car before ... just a couple V-8 carborated cars.

Silkworm

oh, then yeah..

Yellow connector, passenger side strut tower

Jumper that connector, listen for the fuel pump to run

Then start the car after a few minutes.

PaulC

Rpeck

wo, your killing me, in the engine bay? jumper a yellow conector? What does it do? what am I waiting for? how long do I wait? ... enlighten me please

Silkworm

Jumpering the yellow connector tells one of the fuel pump solenoids to bypass the AFM signal telling the ECU that the engine is running. Thus, the fuel pump will run. Otherwise, no fuel pump (cause the engine isn't runnign), an dno fuel pressure, so no start

I had the same deal after rebuilding my RX-7

Silkworm

oh, you're listening for the fuel pump to run.. Sounds like the fan in your computer, kinda..

PaulC

Rpeck

^ before I sleep

Rpeck

Thats it for ideas? I'm headed back out to the garage for the rest of the day (yup, took the day off work to get this running) and thats all the ideas? Bummer, I will keep you all posted on my findings.

Robert

autocrash

did you prime the fuel system yet?? 'cause it won't start if you don't!

Silkworm

I'll betcha a ride in my RX-7 at the track that it's because you didn't prime the fuel system.

If I win, I get to borrow your T2 for a night at the drag strip

PaulC

Wankel7

Air, fuel, spark. What an engine needs to run. Something is wrong there. The fuel pump priming probally happened after the extended periods of cranking. I would just jumper it to make sure that the pump is running in the first place. You could take one plug out of each chamber and then crank over. It should shoot out a fuel mist. Be sure those spark plug wires are near anything will ground them. Also, you didn't get the fuel input and the fuel return lines crosed?


Air. I would also check for a massive intake leak. Make sure you have every thing connected correctly. Did you connect the injectors right? All the plugs are on the proper injector?

Spark. You said that you are getting spark by checking with a timing gun. Thats good

HAILERS

Something is screwball here. If you spray into the air filter or snorkel.(no need to take anything apart. In fact shouldn't) with starter fluid for one to two seconds, and then crank the starter the car should go varoom for a second. If it does not, then either its flooded to the beegees or there is no spark. If it was a air leak, it would have to be massive. A lot more than just one or two of those little vac lines to the solenoids. Something like the brake booster line to the manifold. But you checked that.

Are the fuel injectors of the right impedence for this car?? Still that wouldn't matter. Starter fluid WILL make it fire for a second if there is a hint of spark. Never takes more than a one second burst in the air filter. But you tried that and it does not work.
]
I'm still hung up on spark. No good reason. TAke the cas out of its bore, turn the key to on. Pull the lead wires just to the top of the coil assy. Spin the cas by its gear. You getting a consistent spark. Sorry I had to write that even though you mentioned the timing gun.

Is this a Jspec engine?? I forgot. I think their fuel rails are *** backwards. Don't know for sure. Think I read it on this site.

Wasted your time...but bump to the top again.

Wankel7

Yeah, take off a lead, one at a time at the spark plug. Have somebody crank it and then put the lead some place it will ground. And see if there is a spark.

I am sure they make a better way to test the leads though.

James

Nick86

iTrader: (1)

Have you tested/verified your ground? You may be getting spark, but is it strong enough to get the engine to run?

Grab a set of jumper cables, and connect one end to the negative battery terminal, and the other to the engine block.

Crank it and see what happens. Hey- you never know.

Rpeck

I have added 2 grounds to the motor, so I know the grounds are okay. 1 thing I did find today though.. I was going through a quad check of the wiring again .. and the o2 sensor wire basilly broke in my hand. How much of a effect on starting will that have? I am rewiring it as we speak. I pulle dmy stock ful pump also .. and installed my walboro. I pulled all the plugs again ... cleaned them up .. and that kind of ****, I am going to double check some more wiring .. and give it another go soon.

1 quick question; does the O2 sensor wire plug in near the BAC? when it broke I was pretty sure thats where it was but no posotive.

Thx

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

This may sound like a dumb suggestion, and I am not trying to insult anyones intellegence, however, it was a lesson that I learned the hard way.

I was trying to fire my motor with Starting fluid, so I had taken off the intake runner thinking that the 7 would run that way. HAILERS and a couple of others told me that it wont. So I went back and plugged up the AFM, put the starting fluid into the intake, and slipped the black tube back on to the Throttle body. And the damn thing started...

Just a thought.,.

Rat

Rpeck

OMFG! is started! Here is what I did. I took Wankel7's advice and pulled the plugs and cranked it over looking for fuel. After I installed my new fuel pump and primed the system. The rear rotor was spitting a very good amount of fuel ... but I could not see **** from the front rotor. I know at some point I have been getting fuel .. cause I had to change the oil do to thinning from fuel. So, I said ***-it nothing to loose ... pulled the whole upper intake back off. .. Everything looked okay, and I don't have my larger secondary injectors in the car yet ... but I had all my injectors rebuilt they told me they were all good. But I swapped a secondary for a primary injector and put everyhting back together .. making damn sure all the fuel injector connectors were on okay. I put a loiitle bit of ATF in the plug holes and cleaned the plugs up .. popped them back in and BAM second time I cranked it it fire right up!

The only thing I can think of is; the starting fluid did not work cause the rear rotor housing was flooding like a bitch while the front houseing was starving for fuel (probbably cause of the connector rather than the injector) Strange **** .. but it fired up and I ran it for a good 20 minutes. I could not take ir for a spin cause I tools and **** all over and around it. But then I noticed a very small dripping of coolant leaking. So I killed it, Tommorow after work I will track down the small coolant leak, fix it and take it for a good test run.

I feel like I won the lottery I am SOOOOO happy. over 8 months in the making, buts its running now,

Thanks for all your advice and help fellas.

sbertolone

we had something similiar to this on my buddy tII it was a bad connector for a fuel injector that was causing it not to run we could get it started on starter fluid but it would conk out but it run once past 3800 on the secondaries took us a good 3 days of constantly working to find the problem, but we found a bunch of other things that needed to be fixed at the same time though

Silkworm

Oh, Robert, just so you know, the S5 brackets DON'T work, even though measuring the bolt locations on both an S4 and S5 measure the same.. (shrug). I just redrilled two of the bolt holes, and used a bolt/nut with fender washers instead

PaulC