Sputtering turbo 2 why?
Sputtering turbo 2 why?
When I start my car it idels fine once it get warm rpm starts jumping from 1000 to 1500 sometimes 2000 I unplugged the tps but will idel at 1500 not sure what to do?
Thank you I'm new to the rx7 community I've always had loved them my uncle had a 85 mind you I was born in 90 so I had a chance to purchase one ended up being a turbo 2 swap and I'm hoping to keep the rotary motor alive thanks again
Update
I got it to idel steady at 1000rpm not sure if that's good but then again I noticed the o2s and the air idel control valve have been bypassed or just not connected would that have anything to do with that's also sorry I know the questions sound stupid but I'm new to this
No worries on questions, its better to ask then assume! Another thing to look at is check all your grounds and check if it has ANY vaccum leaks. Any info on the car may help too!
Also get an o2 sensor!!
Also get an o2 sensor!!
If its stock port it should be able to idle lower 600-800?. Any little vac lines or vac caps that might have come off will definitely be a culprit. At least shes idling steady so it's probably just a small vac leak.
Thank you guys
Thanks you guys been very helpful I'ma going to be honest all I know it's a turbo 2 swap into a 91 convertible I'll give you guys a update on the vac leaks it rain in Florida today but I'll get to it 1st thing in the morning
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I had this issue a while back with my RX7. Check behind the manifold right near where the transmission meets up, there's a couple of hoses there that tend to pop off causing weird RPM issues.
I put new vacuum lines and zip tied them and it fixed my issue
I put new vacuum lines and zip tied them and it fixed my issue
+1 what Xavi17 said. I zip tied all my vac caps, and my 1 vac line I got left. They would end up blowing off under boost. There's 3 on the front and 3 on the back of the UIM, one on the side. A few hard to see ones on the inner part of the LIM. One on the front of the stock turbo. If you got some something like starter fluid you can spray around and if it idles up you know you are getting close. I use electrical cleaner which makes it idle down a little instead of up. There is also a "minimum idle?" screw on top at the back of the TB. Its a cylindrical headed screw. After I fixed my air leaks, this screw is what brought it down the last few hundred rpm to where I wanted.
So there was a small vac leak fixed it did my grounds think I'm missing one though found 6 so it been doing pretty well idels at 900 thanks guys would have never found the leak if it wasn't for u guys plus the o2s is in there just not connected not sure if bypassed and my air idel control valve is bypassed
Don't know if you tried it yet but this is the screw I was talking about. If you back it out a little it might come down some. I wouldn't mess with the TPS. If you do car needs to be fully warm like drive it for 15 min. And you need an ohms meter to measure the resistance in the pins of the TPS plug. If you have a front mount this isn't such a pain, but stock ic sucks unless you make a pipe to go from the turbo to the tb and remove the ic for the process.
Don't know if you tried it yet but this is the screw I was talking about. If you back it out a little it might come down some. I wouldn't mess with the TPS. If you do car needs to be fully warm like drive it for 15 min. And you need an ohms meter to measure the resistance in the pins of the TPS plug. If you have a front mount this isn't such a pain, but stock ic sucks unless you make a pipe to go from the turbo to the tb and remove the ic for the process.

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kokujiro
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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Jan 17, 2005 01:11 PM




