Soooo almost fixed my starting problem...
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
Soooo almost fixed my starting problem...
Alright, the car will run, which is a big improvement.
Car still won't start.
I sit down and turn the key, I hear the starter click and a bit of a clunk (tiny clunk) but the engine doesn't turn. I try it a few more times and eventually it will crank, I just have to keep turning the key over and over. Sometimes upwards of 10-15 times it'll do the click/clunk thing before it cranks. It also cranks pretty slow when I finally get it going and it stumbles quite a bit till it's been running for a while. Even if I get it warmed up just fine I can turn it off and if I try and turn it right back on it will do the click/clunk thing.
I know the battery is fine because I just bought it brand new and even had it tested before I left the store (I'm getting tired of trips to CSK Auto) and I just put in a new (reman-in-a-box) starter so I don't think that is the problem. I have shiny connections all over, scrubbed the hell outta the connections on both ends. The only thing I am worried about is the little clip on wire that goes to the starter solenoid, it's pretty gummed up, but if it is engaging at all then I don't think it's that wire. What's it do?
I have exhausted my ideas, you guys have any?
Car still won't start.
I sit down and turn the key, I hear the starter click and a bit of a clunk (tiny clunk) but the engine doesn't turn. I try it a few more times and eventually it will crank, I just have to keep turning the key over and over. Sometimes upwards of 10-15 times it'll do the click/clunk thing before it cranks. It also cranks pretty slow when I finally get it going and it stumbles quite a bit till it's been running for a while. Even if I get it warmed up just fine I can turn it off and if I try and turn it right back on it will do the click/clunk thing.
I know the battery is fine because I just bought it brand new and even had it tested before I left the store (I'm getting tired of trips to CSK Auto) and I just put in a new (reman-in-a-box) starter so I don't think that is the problem. I have shiny connections all over, scrubbed the hell outta the connections on both ends. The only thing I am worried about is the little clip on wire that goes to the starter solenoid, it's pretty gummed up, but if it is engaging at all then I don't think it's that wire. What's it do?
I have exhausted my ideas, you guys have any?
Check that the starter meshes correctly with the flywheel.
Then go back and check (yes again) the battery terminals. ANY corrosion can cause sufficient resistance to keep the starter from activating correctly.
Also, check the voltage of the battery. Make sure it has at least 11ish volts. Anything less than ten and theres no chance of the rotary starting.
Then go back and check (yes again) the battery terminals. ANY corrosion can cause sufficient resistance to keep the starter from activating correctly.
Also, check the voltage of the battery. Make sure it has at least 11ish volts. Anything less than ten and theres no chance of the rotary starting.
Put a jumper wire in your clutch-actuated starter interlock switch connector (bypassing the switch), under the dash there, and see if that helps...
Do you have the factory alarm on the car?
Something else you could try is to move the negative starter cable from the front of the upper bolt to the back (under the nut, right on top of the starter), if you don't have it there already...
Do you have the factory alarm on the car?
Something else you could try is to move the negative starter cable from the front of the upper bolt to the back (under the nut, right on top of the starter), if you don't have it there already...
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted by Kenteth
Check that the starter meshes correctly with the flywheel.
Then go back and check (yes again) the battery terminals. ANY corrosion can cause sufficient resistance to keep the starter from activating correctly.
Also, check the voltage of the battery. Make sure it has at least 11ish volts. Anything less than ten and theres no chance of the rotary starting.
Then go back and check (yes again) the battery terminals. ANY corrosion can cause sufficient resistance to keep the starter from activating correctly.
Also, check the voltage of the battery. Make sure it has at least 11ish volts. Anything less than ten and theres no chance of the rotary starting.
I was thinking that it might not mesh right. How does one go about lining that up? Take it out and re-stab?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Put a jumper wire in your clutch-actuated starter interlock switch connector (bypassing the switch), under the dash there, and see if that helps...
Do you have the factory alarm on the car?
Something else you could try is to move the negative starter cable from the front of the upper bolt to the back (under the nut, right on top of the starter), if you don't have it there already...
Do you have the factory alarm on the car?
Something else you could try is to move the negative starter cable from the front of the upper bolt to the back (under the nut, right on top of the starter), if you don't have it there already...
I do have the factory alarm and I hate it. Is there a way to turn that crap off for good?
You shouldn't have to restab, but pull the starter teeth out to make sure they will reach the flywheel ok.
As for the factory alarm, you can pay a stereo shop $20 or so to remove it, or do it yourself.
As for the factory alarm, you can pay a stereo shop $20 or so to remove it, or do it yourself.
The reason I asked about the factory alarm is because other than the clutch interlock switch, the only other item that can break the starter circuit is the starter cut relay, which is activated by the alarm system...
Now that I reread your first post, though, it sounds more like your engine (or one of the belt-driven accessories) is locking up on you somehow...
Now that I reread your first post, though, it sounds more like your engine (or one of the belt-driven accessories) is locking up on you somehow...
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
Alright, process of elimination. Belt driven accessories are out, A/C pump and PS pump don't have belts on them anymore. Hacked those right off with my trusty huge knife. They were almost worn through and since I can't drive the car I might as well replace them. The Air pump works fine.
I can turn the engine by hand with relative ease which makes me think it isn't really anything binding up. Think I could have a messed up flywheel? It really seems like the starter is just not touching the flywheel, but what would explain the slow crank there?
This is needlessly befuddling.
I can turn the engine by hand with relative ease which makes me think it isn't really anything binding up. Think I could have a messed up flywheel? It really seems like the starter is just not touching the flywheel, but what would explain the slow crank there?
This is needlessly befuddling.
Maybe I've got a different "clunk" sound in my head than the one you're describing, lol...
A clunk to me is the starter pinion extending out like it's supposed to, and hitting the flywheel (engaging the teeth), but not being able to turn the flywheel, for whatever reason.
Now, is that the kind of "clunk" you're talking about?
Oh, and the little solenoid wire you're talking about activates the magnetic solenoid, which closes the contacts for the big juice to flow through the starter motor, and at the same time thrusts the pinion gear out to engage the flywheel.
Ever tried putting the car in gear, and pushing it a little, take it out of gear, then trying to start her again?
Did you put some kind of engine honey or something silly in the oil?
A clunk to me is the starter pinion extending out like it's supposed to, and hitting the flywheel (engaging the teeth), but not being able to turn the flywheel, for whatever reason.
Now, is that the kind of "clunk" you're talking about?
Oh, and the little solenoid wire you're talking about activates the magnetic solenoid, which closes the contacts for the big juice to flow through the starter motor, and at the same time thrusts the pinion gear out to engage the flywheel.
Ever tried putting the car in gear, and pushing it a little, take it out of gear, then trying to start her again?
Did you put some kind of engine honey or something silly in the oil?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Maybe I've got a different "clunk" sound in my head than the one you're describing, lol...
A clunk to me is the starter pinion extending out like it's supposed to, and hitting the flywheel (engaging the teeth), but not being able to turn the flywheel, for whatever reason.
Now, is that the kind of "clunk" you're talking about?
Oh, and the little solenoid wire you're talking about activates the magnetic solenoid, which closes the contacts for the big juice to flow through the starter motor, and at the same time thrusts the pinion gear out to engage the flywheel.
Ever tried putting the car in gear, and pushing it a little, take it out of gear, then trying to start her again?
Did you put some kind of engine honey or something silly in the oil?
A clunk to me is the starter pinion extending out like it's supposed to, and hitting the flywheel (engaging the teeth), but not being able to turn the flywheel, for whatever reason.
Now, is that the kind of "clunk" you're talking about?
Oh, and the little solenoid wire you're talking about activates the magnetic solenoid, which closes the contacts for the big juice to flow through the starter motor, and at the same time thrusts the pinion gear out to engage the flywheel.
Ever tried putting the car in gear, and pushing it a little, take it out of gear, then trying to start her again?
Did you put some kind of engine honey or something silly in the oil?
No additives!
I swear!That is pretty much the clunk I am describing, not even that it contacts the flywheel and can't turn it but like the teeth don't mesh up all the time, I'll go try the moving it in gear thing to see if i can get a different spot on the flywheel. I swear, if this crap turns out to be the starter not meshing with the flywheel I'm gonna be pissed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
UPDATE: I think it's my alt belt. Wayne, you might have been right all along. I cut off all my other belts and it still makes the squeaky belt noise LOUD ALL THE TIME now. I am about to make a trip out to my local 24 hour Thrifty and buy some belts.
Cross your fingers.
Cross your fingers.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 11
From: Vancouver, WA
UPDATE: Went and bought new belts, and cut off all the old ones, decided to try and start it before I put the new ones on, same deal with the click/clunk. Cranks slightly easier when it finally does.
Now I am really outta ideas, last one is the starter gear mesh or just a newly toasted starter.
Tomorrow is my first day off in two weeks, guess I get some daylight at last.
Now I am really outta ideas, last one is the starter gear mesh or just a newly toasted starter.
Tomorrow is my first day off in two weeks, guess I get some daylight at last.
i'm having the same problem you all are having..
was just working on it.. still greasy arms from being under the car
Problem started occuring this summer.. right after i changed my clutch.. till finally the other day all it did was that clunk.. now from what i saw the - and + wires from the battery go right to the starter.. unfortunatly my voltometer is at a friends so i can't check the wires for continuity..
so what i'm gonna do as soon as my friend gets back with some 4 guage wire is to the - and + leads on the starter and see if that works..
I'll poste my results later today.. hopefully b4 6:30.. it's 4:30 pm at this time
Frank
was just working on it.. still greasy arms from being under the car
Problem started occuring this summer.. right after i changed my clutch.. till finally the other day all it did was that clunk.. now from what i saw the - and + wires from the battery go right to the starter.. unfortunatly my voltometer is at a friends so i can't check the wires for continuity..
so what i'm gonna do as soon as my friend gets back with some 4 guage wire is to the - and + leads on the starter and see if that works..
I'll poste my results later today.. hopefully b4 6:30.. it's 4:30 pm at this time
Frank
is your engine grounded. there is a big ground wire that connect to the engine and tranny side. that ground should complete the starter curcuit that is if your starter is not fried.
have you tried jumping the starter ? if you do this make sure the car is not in gear
good luck
Al
have you tried jumping the starter ? if you do this make sure the car is not in gear
good luck
Al
All right, man, you're running around in circles, lol...
Take the starter off of the tranny. Perform a visual inspection of the flywheel through the exposed hole. With the car in neutral, you can turn the engine to see the entire flywheel, if you so desire.Take measurements if you wish, to verify that when extended, the starter gear will meet the flywheel teeth. Take the starter and have it checked out, or do it yourself- attach the big ground wire to the starter body (with a bolt or something that will securely attach it), attach the big positive cable to it's lug on the solenoid, and tap the smaller lug with a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal. The starter pinion gear should pop out, and the starter should spin its *** off. Do this just long enough to verify operation.
Take the starter off of the tranny. Perform a visual inspection of the flywheel through the exposed hole. With the car in neutral, you can turn the engine to see the entire flywheel, if you so desire.Take measurements if you wish, to verify that when extended, the starter gear will meet the flywheel teeth. Take the starter and have it checked out, or do it yourself- attach the big ground wire to the starter body (with a bolt or something that will securely attach it), attach the big positive cable to it's lug on the solenoid, and tap the smaller lug with a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal. The starter pinion gear should pop out, and the starter should spin its *** off. Do this just long enough to verify operation.
lol well my starter is fried..
i tried that earlier today and it would just pop out.. then nada.. kinda sucks cause this was the used replacment one cause my other starter was having the same problem
Frank
i tried that earlier today and it would just pop out.. then nada.. kinda sucks cause this was the used replacment one cause my other starter was having the same problem
Frank
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