2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

something ive already done wondering if it was a mistake

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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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From: byram, ms
something ive already done wondering if it was a mistake

i bought a new thermostat for a 78 cosmo with the 1.3 which was a 160 degree thermostat and put it into a 88 n/a


here are the specs

failsafe thermostat for a 1978 mazda cosmo with a 1.3 rotary designed to lock open durring overheating conditions
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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i dont see any problems, but wouldnt a regular t-stat stay open during those same conditions?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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From: byram, ms
any input i figure everything for intake is apart till parts come in soooo........
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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From: byram, ms
Originally Posted by DREYKO
i dont see any problems, but wouldnt a regular t-stat stay open during those same conditions?
that is correct but this is also a 160 degree t-stat
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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you're car just won't warm all the way up as fast. the fan should still turn on at the same time whether its the stock style or an electric one with a temp setting.

kevin.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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From: byram, ms
Originally Posted by teknics
you're car just won't warm all the way up as fast. the fan should still turn on at the same time whether its the stock style or an electric one with a temp setting.

kevin.
i was just curious because i got it brand new from autozone for 3.99
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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my only beef, and its not really a beef so much as a lack of knowledge in this particular temperature question...but it is:

at what point is the engine "too cold" granted 20 degrees sounds like a nice tiny saftey margin, I am just throwing out the question.

edit: also for me (although I've never required replacing a t-stat yet) I would be going OE, its like what - 25 bucks from the dealer and you KNOW its gonna work...I have read a few threads about the differences between afmkt vs. OE thermostats and the findings were quite interesting.

but then again you can read alot of crap on the net......

Last edited by classicauto; Apr 10, 2006 at 05:45 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:58 PM
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From: byram, ms
Originally Posted by classicauto
my only beef, and its not really a beef so much as a lack of knowledge in this particular temperature question...but it is:

at what point is the engine "too cold" granted 20 degrees sounds like a nice tiny saftey margin, I am just throwing out the question.

edit: also for me (although I've never required replacing a t-stat yet) I would be going OE, its like what - 25 bucks from the dealer and you KNOW its gonna work...I have read a few threads about the differences between afmkt vs. OE thermostats and the findings were quite interesting.

but then again you can read alot of crap on the net......
well its been ran for about a month before i developed a leak and had to remove intake but it never gave me any problems just that my temp guage when warm would hold steady at a hair over 1/4 but this is also a failsafe thermostat in case it was to ever stick it allows slight coolant flow in each direction about 1mm and incase off overheating it will stick in wide open possition
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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From: byram, ms
thats its peak sorry forgot to add that its accually a consistant just under a 1/4
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by royaltrex7
i bought a new thermostat for a 78 cosmo with the 1.3 which was a 160 degree thermostat and put it into a 88 n/a
The obvious question is why?! You don't own a 78 Cosmo so why would you buy a thermostat for one? Go to Mazda and buy the right thermostat for your car.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 08:21 AM
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A Failsafe thermostat doesn't lock open when you overheat. The way they differ from normal t-stats is that if it fails, it fails in the open position, rather than closed, therefore preventing your car from overheating.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 08:30 AM
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aftermarket thermostats are a crap shoot, most of them fail after a week or a month or never work properly at all, they all suck and that is why they are 2.99-14.99 (some of them are a REAL rip off with they're fancy packaging) the dealer is probably the best place to go, unless you like going back to kragen and getting replacements for the 60 day warrenty,lol
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 08:49 AM
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From: byram, ms
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
The obvious question is why?! You don't own a 78 Cosmo so why would you buy a thermostat for one? Go to Mazda and buy the right thermostat for your car.
first at the time all i had was change second it was cheaper so thats to solve that and im wondering if spending 3.99 then to last till i can get the dealer item was worth it and if anyone thinks it might last for about a week
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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The only thermostat you should use is the one from Mazda, for an FC. The grief and risk that aftermarket thermostats are known to cause is not worth the few dollars difference.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:32 AM
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Ive always gotten the T-stat from kragen/autozone. ALWAYS and Ive never had any problems at all. ive had my autozone t-stat in for over a year no problems. had a kragen t-stat in my toyota 4x4 for ****, 3 years, and no problems.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 10:43 AM
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Modern fuel needs higher temperatures to combust properly thanks to the higher O2 content - barring coolant temps that will wreck your rotary, you want to be as hot as possible.

That being said, the factory specs are a good overall compromise. ~rich

p.s., if lower was better then why do you think they'd raise the temp from 160 to 180?
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 02:15 PM
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From: byram, ms
Originally Posted by n/a-luvr
Modern fuel needs higher temperatures to combust properly thanks to the higher O2 content - barring coolant temps that will wreck your rotary, you want to be as hot as possible.

That being said, the factory specs are a good overall compromise. ~rich

p.s., if lower was better then why do you think they'd raise the temp from 160 to 180?
ok but under heavy driving conditions, road racing,,or drags doesn't the engine produce more heat. then at higher when it starts to heat up the coolant wouldn't you want something that started sooner or something that waited til temps were starting to shoot up?
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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I bought a 185-190 temp thermostat.... is that bad for my car. I'm really worried because my guage says that my car is really hot but my radiator isn't or the upper radiator hose.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by royaltrex7
ok but under heavy driving conditions, road racing,,or drags doesn't the engine produce more heat. then at higher when it starts to heat up the coolant wouldn't you want something that started sooner or something that waited til temps were starting to shoot up?
No, the engine will only overheat if the cooling system can't reject heat as fast as the engine produces it. Even if you start out cooler the engine result will be the same, just slightly delayed.

Originally Posted by rx7 SE
I bought a 185-190 temp thermostat.... is that bad for my car.
Go to Mazda and get the right thermostat!
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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From: byram, ms
so think factory thermostat and underdrive pulley would take care of high rpm overheating?
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 05:52 AM
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Installing a Mazda thermostat will only help if the overheating is caused by the existing thermostat, but it's a good start.

I would only put an underdrive pulley on a racecar engine.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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From the voice of experience. ONLY buy a genuine OEM Mazda tstat. I have had MANY problems in mazda's with aftermarket. They all cleared up when I put the Mazda tstat in them.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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From: byram, ms
ok here is the deal the pulley hub is has deep scars the cas has deep scars the front stationary gear is shot torrington bearings almost completely gone have about 12 mm of play with the pulley on motor.
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