something ive already done wondering if it was a mistake
#1
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something ive already done wondering if it was a mistake
i bought a new thermostat for a 78 cosmo with the 1.3 which was a 160 degree thermostat and put it into a 88 n/a
here are the specs
failsafe thermostat for a 1978 mazda cosmo with a 1.3 rotary designed to lock open durring overheating conditions
here are the specs
failsafe thermostat for a 1978 mazda cosmo with a 1.3 rotary designed to lock open durring overheating conditions
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DREYKO
i dont see any problems, but wouldnt a regular t-stat stay open during those same conditions?
#6
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Originally Posted by teknics
you're car just won't warm all the way up as fast. the fan should still turn on at the same time whether its the stock style or an electric one with a temp setting.
kevin.
kevin.
#7
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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my only beef, and its not really a beef so much as a lack of knowledge in this particular temperature question...but it is:
at what point is the engine "too cold" granted 20 degrees sounds like a nice tiny saftey margin, I am just throwing out the question.
edit: also for me (although I've never required replacing a t-stat yet) I would be going OE, its like what - 25 bucks from the dealer and you KNOW its gonna work...I have read a few threads about the differences between afmkt vs. OE thermostats and the findings were quite interesting.
but then again you can read alot of crap on the net......
at what point is the engine "too cold" granted 20 degrees sounds like a nice tiny saftey margin, I am just throwing out the question.
edit: also for me (although I've never required replacing a t-stat yet) I would be going OE, its like what - 25 bucks from the dealer and you KNOW its gonna work...I have read a few threads about the differences between afmkt vs. OE thermostats and the findings were quite interesting.
but then again you can read alot of crap on the net......
Last edited by classicauto; 04-10-06 at 05:45 PM.
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#8
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by classicauto
my only beef, and its not really a beef so much as a lack of knowledge in this particular temperature question...but it is:
at what point is the engine "too cold" granted 20 degrees sounds like a nice tiny saftey margin, I am just throwing out the question.
edit: also for me (although I've never required replacing a t-stat yet) I would be going OE, its like what - 25 bucks from the dealer and you KNOW its gonna work...I have read a few threads about the differences between afmkt vs. OE thermostats and the findings were quite interesting.
but then again you can read alot of crap on the net......
at what point is the engine "too cold" granted 20 degrees sounds like a nice tiny saftey margin, I am just throwing out the question.
edit: also for me (although I've never required replacing a t-stat yet) I would be going OE, its like what - 25 bucks from the dealer and you KNOW its gonna work...I have read a few threads about the differences between afmkt vs. OE thermostats and the findings were quite interesting.
but then again you can read alot of crap on the net......
#10
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Originally Posted by royaltrex7
i bought a new thermostat for a 78 cosmo with the 1.3 which was a 160 degree thermostat and put it into a 88 n/a
#11
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A Failsafe thermostat doesn't lock open when you overheat. The way they differ from normal t-stats is that if it fails, it fails in the open position, rather than closed, therefore preventing your car from overheating.
#12
RIP Icemark
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aftermarket thermostats are a crap shoot, most of them fail after a week or a month or never work properly at all, they all suck and that is why they are 2.99-14.99 (some of them are a REAL rip off with they're fancy packaging) the dealer is probably the best place to go, unless you like going back to kragen and getting replacements for the 60 day warrenty,lol
#13
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first at the time all i had was change second it was cheaper so thats to solve that and im wondering if spending 3.99 then to last till i can get the dealer item was worth it and if anyone thinks it might last for about a week
#14
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The only thermostat you should use is the one from Mazda, for an FC. The grief and risk that aftermarket thermostats are known to cause is not worth the few dollars difference.
#15
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Ive always gotten the T-stat from kragen/autozone. ALWAYS and Ive never had any problems at all. ive had my autozone t-stat in for over a year no problems. had a kragen t-stat in my toyota 4x4 for ****, 3 years, and no problems.
#16
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Modern fuel needs higher temperatures to combust properly thanks to the higher O2 content - barring coolant temps that will wreck your rotary, you want to be as hot as possible.
That being said, the factory specs are a good overall compromise. ~rich
p.s., if lower was better then why do you think they'd raise the temp from 160 to 180?
That being said, the factory specs are a good overall compromise. ~rich
p.s., if lower was better then why do you think they'd raise the temp from 160 to 180?
#17
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by n/a-luvr
Modern fuel needs higher temperatures to combust properly thanks to the higher O2 content - barring coolant temps that will wreck your rotary, you want to be as hot as possible.
That being said, the factory specs are a good overall compromise. ~rich
p.s., if lower was better then why do you think they'd raise the temp from 160 to 180?
That being said, the factory specs are a good overall compromise. ~rich
p.s., if lower was better then why do you think they'd raise the temp from 160 to 180?
#19
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Originally Posted by royaltrex7
ok but under heavy driving conditions, road racing,,or drags doesn't the engine produce more heat. then at higher when it starts to heat up the coolant wouldn't you want something that started sooner or something that waited til temps were starting to shoot up?
Originally Posted by rx7 SE
I bought a 185-190 temp thermostat.... is that bad for my car.
#21
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Installing a Mazda thermostat will only help if the overheating is caused by the existing thermostat, but it's a good start.
I would only put an underdrive pulley on a racecar engine.
I would only put an underdrive pulley on a racecar engine.
#22
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From the voice of experience. ONLY buy a genuine OEM Mazda tstat. I have had MANY problems in mazda's with aftermarket. They all cleared up when I put the Mazda tstat in them.
#23
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ok here is the deal the pulley hub is has deep scars the cas has deep scars the front stationary gear is shot torrington bearings almost completely gone have about 12 mm of play with the pulley on motor.
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