solid mounts: lets see them!
Back from the dead.
I figured i would let everyone that is debating to go solid mounts(i did already in my vert with the himni mounts) the ones pdrmotorsports sells on ebay are reall nice quality and are just as good as the himni mounts all for about $70 instead of the $120+ i paid for the ones from himni.
Now maybe a few more people will make the change. I personally love my solid mounts. Not too much vibration. In fact unless i tell people i have solid mounts they never know. Plus you will be able to drive the car much easier and you wont get flex that will allow a front mount intercooler's piping to separate.
My vert is also a DD and they dont interfere with the stereo or anything either.
I figured i would let everyone that is debating to go solid mounts(i did already in my vert with the himni mounts) the ones pdrmotorsports sells on ebay are reall nice quality and are just as good as the himni mounts all for about $70 instead of the $120+ i paid for the ones from himni.
Now maybe a few more people will make the change. I personally love my solid mounts. Not too much vibration. In fact unless i tell people i have solid mounts they never know. Plus you will be able to drive the car much easier and you wont get flex that will allow a front mount intercooler's piping to separate.
My vert is also a DD and they dont interfere with the stereo or anything either.
thanks for bumping it, I forgot to post up mine lol
and for the driver side:
and trans mounts (not bolted together completely in this shot)
it kinda sucks in traffic with this in conjunction with the AL flywheel because the car wants to either accelerate or decelerate. so moving at slow speeds can be tough or getting off the line in slow traffic is hard too if traffic doesnt move quick enough off the line.
and my mounts had cost me about 4 dollars because I had to buy the nuts and bolts
and for the driver side:
and trans mounts (not bolted together completely in this shot)
it kinda sucks in traffic with this in conjunction with the AL flywheel because the car wants to either accelerate or decelerate. so moving at slow speeds can be tough or getting off the line in slow traffic is hard too if traffic doesnt move quick enough off the line.
and my mounts had cost me about 4 dollars because I had to buy the nuts and bolts
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
+1
The vibration form solid mounts is HIGHLY overated.
My stock engine mounts were trashed (pass side was in 2 pieces) so I ordered some MMR engine/tranny/diff mounts.
with only tranny and engine mounts installed, it shifts much smoother, and my 3rd gear grind is gone. It's smoother off the line. The only noticable vibration is in lower gears above 4k. I'm still getting some roughness on quick acceleration/deceleration but I'm pretty sure its from a weak/broken diff mount.
The vibration form solid mounts is HIGHLY overated.
My stock engine mounts were trashed (pass side was in 2 pieces) so I ordered some MMR engine/tranny/diff mounts.
with only tranny and engine mounts installed, it shifts much smoother, and my 3rd gear grind is gone. It's smoother off the line. The only noticable vibration is in lower gears above 4k. I'm still getting some roughness on quick acceleration/deceleration but I'm pretty sure its from a weak/broken diff mount.
i just figured i would let everyone know my TII vibrates more than my vert. I belive its because the TII is more solid than the vert. I also believe my handling improved a slight bit over before. Could just be me too. Car feels more solid and stiff i think. Could also be because i was driving around on one motor mount too.
i would say this is the best mod for the ''money''
feels like this one mod brings all the other supension mods togther
this combined with a short throw shifter is KING
keep the projects going guys
feels like this one mod brings all the other supension mods togther
this combined with a short throw shifter is KING
keep the projects going guys
Make sure you have some extra bolts in the glove box and a way to ziptie the pucks to the chassis. You WILL break those bolts (yes, even grade 8 ones) with hard driving. I have poly ones but am looking to get rid of them. There is a reason the OEM style ones are designed like they are.
I run these in my FC for obvious reasons. I have solid inserts to replace the rubber during race season, but for winter or long trips I run the thin rubber bushing for a bit of extra comfort.
As far as making your own you don't have to worry about the diameter. Metal has astounding compressive strength. To give you an idea of how much ... a 3" round steel tube with a 1/8" wall, will support 36,000lbs. You can make mounts our of what ever is convenient, although I wouldn't go under 2" in diameter. You'd literally tear the bolt out of either the bracket or the subframe before you could stretch/crush a block of aluminum a significant amount.
When installing your mounts make sure to install them with the nut on the bottom, and I personally would use a locknut and some locktite.
If you're going to also make solid diff mounts you will really want a rubber bushing of some sort. even a 1/8" rubber bushing drastically reduces the noise transmitted into the cabin while only adding a small amount of play.
Did you make those? If not who does?
Done.
Yes actually, it's on the board for items to finish up this week. I actually have matching tranny mounts in my car. I found that the trans mounts increased vibrations way more then the motor mounts did.
Yes actually, it's on the board for items to finish up this week. I actually have matching tranny mounts in my car. I found that the trans mounts increased vibrations way more then the motor mounts did.
I bought both solid tranny and engine mounts from Himni 2 weeks ago, and got to install them last week.
I must say, shifting is better (atleast for me), and the shaking wasnt that bad as I imagined. Its a small rattle till 3k, after that its smooth.
No I have to fix this broken front diff mount and all will be good.....
I must say, shifting is better (atleast for me), and the shaking wasnt that bad as I imagined. Its a small rattle till 3k, after that its smooth.
No I have to fix this broken front diff mount and all will be good.....
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
In the shade
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: PA
^^Can you post pics of those flaco? I think I am in the market for some new mounts while everything is being rebuilt. My car is going to be my DD though, so does anyone know of any mounts in between stock and solid?
for level zero i order some great product justonly thin i could complain about was the shipping timeI wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Make sure you have some extra bolts in the glove box and a way to ziptie the pucks to the chassis. You WILL break those bolts (yes, even grade 8 ones) with hard driving. I have poly ones but am looking to get rid of them. There is a reason the OEM style ones are designed like they are.
Start using NAS bolts or the like instead of the standard "SAE grade 8" bullshit. The wide variation on tolerances and testing on the "grade 8" bolts is pathetic. People are a little more concerned about planes falling from the sky than they are about their diff mounting bolt breaking, and certified aircraft NAS bolts won't fail on you.
Make sure you have some extra bolts in the glove box and a way to ziptie the pucks to the chassis. You WILL break those bolts (yes, even grade 8 ones) with hard driving. I have poly ones but am looking to get rid of them. There is a reason the OEM style ones are designed like they are.
Start using NAS bolts or the like instead of the standard "SAE grade 8" bullshit. The wide variation on tolerances and testing on the "grade 8" bolts is pathetic. People are a little more concerned about planes falling from the sky than they are about their diff mounting bolt breaking, and certified aircraft NAS bolts won't fail on you.
I only have poly ones. The bolt shears, usually right at the level of the motor mount. I've had it happen to the passenger side mount twice now in about a year of use.
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Aircraft spruce would probably be your best bet. Order the correct uncut length and use washers to prevent any shear forces from being placed on the thread portion of the bolt.
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