And I smell Gas! Pulsation dampener's going out.

If Memory serves me right, the PD is on the Secondary fuel rail correct?


anyone know if I can just swap the N/A secondary fuel rail and pd to a Turbo II secondary/pd?

 

PD is on the primary rail.

 

Swap in the S5 primary fuel rail...or just do the Banjo Bolt Mod.

 

The S5 rail is not better (and much more expensive to replace the PD) than the S4 rail (where you can replace the PD with either a Stock or aftermarket PD).

And the Banjo bolt mod may lead to lean or overly rich conditions at particular RPMs.

So that is not a sound recommendation.

 

Lol, I typed secondary didn't I, sorry man my mistake, wasn't paying attention to what I was doing.

I looked at it closer today, and its not leaking, yet. but the gas smell can be pretty strong at times. I guess I'll pick one up from Mazda. Wouldn't want a engine fire to ruin my turbo project lol.

 

an engine fire is what started my turbo project on my 87GXL.. haha

 

Are you sure it's from the engine bay? Did you heck the leaks in the line? Also, I know mine has the seal going bad around the fuel pump and the vapors come in the car easily especially on right hand turns.

 

I changed the screw, rubber o-ring, and put some teflon tape on my n/a since you can see it on the rail without taking anything off, but the Tii one is on the back which sucks.

 

Icemark, I'm not meaning any disrespect here...and I'm not denying that theoretically the Banjo Bolt Mod could cause some sort of undesired effects. However, the modification has been performed countless times...and how many failures have occurred because of it? One? Two? And, those conclusions are most likely based off of poorly aimed accusations.

The bottom line is...there's no hard proof that eliminating the P.D. on this car, and installing a Banjo Bolt (Using new crush washers) in it's place will have any ill effects.

I'm going to recommend the O.P. go ahead with the Banjo Bolt.

To the O.P.: Use NEW crush washers when you do this. The Bolt can be ordered, or taken from an S4 Primary Fuel Rail. If I recall correctly, the size of the bolt is 1.25mm x 14mm. Ice can correct that if I'm wrong.

 

im not really sure what would happen, but i supose that mazda put it there for some reason haha, how big of a reason is another question though

 

Two things...

1st You said use the S5 rail- which is more expensive, proven to fail the same way as S4 rails, and can not use a banjo bolt. So that was bad advice.

2nd: Why take the risk of blowning the motor instead of buying a new $150 part??? if you don't like the Mazda one- fine, buy any of the 3 or 4 aftermarket ones (several are sealed units) and for $150 have it done correctly. But just eliminating the part is stuiped, and no different than the morons that remove the low coolant/Low Oil/ Engine Over-rev buzzer because they can't figure out how to bleed the coolant or have a bad $20 sensor.

I personally know of two Turbos, that used to have problems at 4500-5000 RPM (you could see the drop on the dyno charts) that all they did was replace a Banjo Bolt with a real PD and it solved the drop in power at 4500. So yes I suppose that it was "conclusions are most likely based off of poorly aimed accusations" for the real reason of a power drop.

But I look at that was bad advice to suggest using a banjo bolt.

Fix the car- don't **** it up further by half assing a repair. Hell, for the price of a decent tire, you could fix the car correctly.

 

You could use an S5 fuel rail. It is a fix, but no telling how long it'd last.

Second, we're not turning this into another Banjo Bolt versus Pulsation Damper thread.

Third, isn't the O.P.'s car currently an N/A? Banjo Bolts work fine for stock N/A's.

So don't say that it's bad advice. I know you don't believe in the mod, but A LOT of people do. It's up to the O.P. whether or not to do it.

Edit: I forgot to mention, that I *DON'T* recommend the Banjo Bolt for anything other than a stock or relatively stock N/A.

I also forgot to add my concern with a new P.D. is: Where's the guarantee? It could start leaking after some time...maybe not a very long time. Or, it could last as long as the original one did. It's rubber.

Now, Icemark. You're one of the very intelligent people on this forum. I respect that knowledge. But just because you personally don't trust a modification that is commonly performed, doesn't mean it's 'bad advice' to give. That's all I will say further on this subject, I am done with this thread.