2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

So . . Has anyone figured out a way to rebuild the TPS?

Old Oct 16, 2014 | 11:24 PM
  #26  
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Was there ever any luck in figuring something out for a cheaper alternative to buying a new TPS?
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 01:31 AM
  #27  
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mark passed away

still plenty of haltech owners that went the hog and ditched the mazda unit for a bosch GM or ford unit
( though it is fairly involved )
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
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R.I.P. Mark

Although his work on the TPS won't go unfinished... I haven't been able to get a TPS into any of the campus labs yet but I figure cracking one open wouldn't hurt. It's a pretty simple setup for a variable resistance switch, just kind of difficult to make it as small as neat without effort.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 06:34 PM
  #29  
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From: Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
So is there a right up on how to convert a GM or Ford tps? I really can't afford $273 for a new one
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ThatGuyOnTheGas
So is there a right up on how to convert a GM or Ford tps? I really can't afford $273 for a new one
Get a good used one.

The Haltech forum has part numbers for the Ford part commonly used. But it won't work well with the stock ECU.
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #31  
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What would I have to do if I used the ford part? And I've been looking rather intently for a used one, but have yet to find one
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 04:57 AM
  #32  
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you need a 8 mm D shaft TPS ( haltech sell them )
and you mod the mazda shaft with a file into a D pattern and you make a bracket hanging off the TB from the secondary throttle delay mounting points

the trick is getting it close enough to the closed throttle position so that a mild twist of the TPS body on its adjusting mounting screws takes the TPS into calibration

the stock TPS in s4 is narrow range and shows 100% at only 30% throttle

the new TPS will be full range

though im thinking it might be OK as the stock ECU is pretty much ignoring it for anything but the initial acell pump feature and idle switch

your other option is to take take apart a s5 twin set from its bracket
and put one of them on the s4 bracket and clip,, and rewire appropriately

the s5 units are the same range and output as the s4 one, just using a dual connector and different wire colours
( and one of them sits on a full range movement cam )
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:12 AM
  #33  
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Question, could I possibly take the single sensor from an s4 and put it on the s5 bracket and rewire as needed?
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 09:31 PM
  #34  
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yes ,, they are the same units,, different wire colours and a different plug on a different bracket , but the same device

just swap at the clip and rewire to suit
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 11:51 PM
  #35  
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Okay. I think thats the route I'm gonna take. Especially since I've already found one that I can use. Is there any kind of diagram I can use to figure out which wire goes where for rewiring? I know the two to probe to check resistance on the dual plunger style, but I've never had any experience with the single plunger. Also, is there I can check the new one to make sure it's good? I've got a multimeter and can check resistance pretty easily, just not sure which wires to probe on the single unit, I know the resistance though (1k ohm closed and 4-6k WOT)
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