So . . Has anyone figured out a way to rebuild the TPS?
#28
CC of L-Squared Shots
R.I.P. Mark
Although his work on the TPS won't go unfinished... I haven't been able to get a TPS into any of the campus labs yet but I figure cracking one open wouldn't hurt. It's a pretty simple setup for a variable resistance switch, just kind of difficult to make it as small as neat without effort.
Although his work on the TPS won't go unfinished... I haven't been able to get a TPS into any of the campus labs yet but I figure cracking one open wouldn't hurt. It's a pretty simple setup for a variable resistance switch, just kind of difficult to make it as small as neat without effort.
#32
talking head
you need a 8 mm D shaft TPS ( haltech sell them )
and you mod the mazda shaft with a file into a D pattern and you make a bracket hanging off the TB from the secondary throttle delay mounting points
the trick is getting it close enough to the closed throttle position so that a mild twist of the TPS body on its adjusting mounting screws takes the TPS into calibration
the stock TPS in s4 is narrow range and shows 100% at only 30% throttle
the new TPS will be full range
though im thinking it might be OK as the stock ECU is pretty much ignoring it for anything but the initial acell pump feature and idle switch
your other option is to take take apart a s5 twin set from its bracket
and put one of them on the s4 bracket and clip,, and rewire appropriately
the s5 units are the same range and output as the s4 one, just using a dual connector and different wire colours
( and one of them sits on a full range movement cam )
and you mod the mazda shaft with a file into a D pattern and you make a bracket hanging off the TB from the secondary throttle delay mounting points
the trick is getting it close enough to the closed throttle position so that a mild twist of the TPS body on its adjusting mounting screws takes the TPS into calibration
the stock TPS in s4 is narrow range and shows 100% at only 30% throttle
the new TPS will be full range
though im thinking it might be OK as the stock ECU is pretty much ignoring it for anything but the initial acell pump feature and idle switch
your other option is to take take apart a s5 twin set from its bracket
and put one of them on the s4 bracket and clip,, and rewire appropriately
the s5 units are the same range and output as the s4 one, just using a dual connector and different wire colours
( and one of them sits on a full range movement cam )
#34
talking head
yes ,, they are the same units,, different wire colours and a different plug on a different bracket , but the same device
just swap at the clip and rewire to suit
just swap at the clip and rewire to suit
#35
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Okay. I think thats the route I'm gonna take. Especially since I've already found one that I can use. Is there any kind of diagram I can use to figure out which wire goes where for rewiring? I know the two to probe to check resistance on the dual plunger style, but I've never had any experience with the single plunger. Also, is there I can check the new one to make sure it's good? I've got a multimeter and can check resistance pretty easily, just not sure which wires to probe on the single unit, I know the resistance though (1k ohm closed and 4-6k WOT)
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