snapped TII intake manifold bolt
10-13-11, 01:24 AM
#28
I'm still waiting for that 5 Mr. Washingtons money shot. I kind of want Aaron to do it, just so I can marvel at the selection available in a country that isn't stuck in the 17th century for everyday practical things (I don't want my American football measuring in meters).
10-13-11, 09:04 AM
#30
Fastenal 
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=38631&ucst=t
There is atleast 10 fastenal stores within 50miles of me..... lol
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=38631&ucst=t
There is atleast 10 fastenal stores within 50miles of me..... lol
Last edited by lim_fc3c; 10-13-11 at 09:08 AM.
10-13-11, 09:09 AM
#31
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
Stainless is no where near the strength of automotive grade fasteners and the 8.8 metric grade is the same as SAE grade 5. Probably what the factory one was. I don't know but stainless does not have that great a tensile strength.
10-13-11, 10:00 AM
#32
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
haha, what did I tell ya
I'm still waiting for that 5 Mr. Washingtons money shot. I kind of want Aaron to do it, just so I can marvel at the selection available in a country that isn't stuck in the 17th century for everyday practical things (I don't want my American football measuring in meters).
I'm still waiting for that 5 Mr. Washingtons money shot. I kind of want Aaron to do it, just so I can marvel at the selection available in a country that isn't stuck in the 17th century for everyday practical things (I don't want my American football measuring in meters).
And I'm quite serious about putting together a stainless engine hardware kit, assuming the fastener stores are willing to sell to me at close to wholesale.
Yeah, but for things like intake manifolds, it's not an issue. Stainless just looks better and dresses up the engine. I'd never suggest someone replace suspension fasteners with stainless.
10-13-11, 11:04 AM
#33
Next time I'm near my local fastener store, I'll go back into the warehouse and have someone take a picture of me in front of the multiple isles each 75 feet long full from floor to ceiling of metric hardware. I really am shocked that finding simple hardware is so hard for US residents. But your $5 is only like $4.85 Canadian anyway.
making us look helpless and broke... sheesh
10-13-11, 01:11 PM
#35
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
I'm trying to be nothing but informative but standard 18-8 stainless screw ratings are 70,000 PSI and grade 8 automotive is over twice that at 150,000 PSI. Watch the torque, and if you thought the factory one was easy to bust...
Stainless has crappy elasticity. Vibration, heat cycling, and multiple torques destroy them quickly.
Stainless has crappy elasticity. Vibration, heat cycling, and multiple torques destroy them quickly.
10-13-11, 01:37 PM
#36
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am finding it more fantastical that people have had that oem bolt break. I've had the soft aluminum threads on the lower manifold strip out but never broken the bolt. Granted I've pulled about 8 or 9 engines apart, but torque rating is like what 12-15 ft/lbs?! Were the threads on either end not inspected during assembly? I know I've helicoiled my manifold with a steel sleeve in that location to keep proper torque and not have to risk thread stretch during install and removal. But I've also replaced that bolt with a metric off the shelf replacement from my local hardware store and I live in a town of 2200 lol
10-13-11, 01:57 PM
#37
stainless is not a good idea for threaded bolts into aluminum, i thought this was common knowledge... stainless tends to grab and adopt aluminum leading to lots of siezed bolts once installed(mostly true for cast aluminum, not so much for higher quality machined aluminums but almost all of the aluminum on these engines is weak cast material).
and the S5 TII UIM bolt is abnormally long even for most metric bolt carriers. i have found the S4 UIM center bolt at mom and pops stores but the S5 is a pita due to it's length and pitch.
the metric fastener selection in almost any US store is hardly anything to write home about, usually at most 1/4 the size of the SAE selections and most of that is machine screws.
and the S5 TII UIM bolt is abnormally long even for most metric bolt carriers. i have found the S4 UIM center bolt at mom and pops stores but the S5 is a pita due to it's length and pitch.
the metric fastener selection in almost any US store is hardly anything to write home about, usually at most 1/4 the size of the SAE selections and most of that is machine screws.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-13-11 at 02:04 PM.
10-13-11, 03:31 PM
#38
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,816
Received 2,587 Likes
on
1,838 Posts
I am finding it more fantastical that people have had that oem bolt break. I've had the soft aluminum threads on the lower manifold strip out but never broken the bolt. Granted I've pulled about 8 or 9 engines apart, but torque rating is like what 12-15 ft/lbs?! Were the threads on either end not inspected during assembly? I know I've helicoiled my manifold with a steel sleeve in that location to keep proper torque and not have to risk thread stretch during install and removal. But I've also replaced that bolt with a metric off the shelf replacement from my local hardware store and I live in a town of 2200 lol
10-14-11, 10:57 AM
#43
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Do we really need to discuss the stainless vs. non-stainless?
For fasteners like intake manifold bolts, water pump nuts, bolts holding down the coils, and all other non-critical fasteners that are hardly holding any torque, it doesn't matter. Millions of hot rods and custom vehicles use stainless fasteners to dress up the engine bay. My own RX-7 has nothing but stainless on all non-load bearing nuts/bolts. And has on various levels for over 10 years.
Corrosion between aluminum and stainless is a non issue because anti-seize is used on every fastener (that doesn't require sealant or Loctite) anyway. Or maybe I'm the only one that does that.
For fasteners like intake manifold bolts, water pump nuts, bolts holding down the coils, and all other non-critical fasteners that are hardly holding any torque, it doesn't matter. Millions of hot rods and custom vehicles use stainless fasteners to dress up the engine bay. My own RX-7 has nothing but stainless on all non-load bearing nuts/bolts. And has on various levels for over 10 years.
Corrosion between aluminum and stainless is a non issue because anti-seize is used on every fastener (that doesn't require sealant or Loctite) anyway. Or maybe I'm the only one that does that.
10-15-11, 10:48 AM
#45
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
On the FC, we are typically threading bolts/nuts into steel as well. There are few threading into aluminum. Off the top of my head, only the big intake manifold bolt, a few on the throttle body, and the brackets that hold the solenoid rack to the housings. I'm sure I'm missing a few but overall, all the bolts/nuts are installed into cast iron or onto steel studs. Oh, some of the oil pan bolts into the housings/front cover.
I've not seen any issues with using stainless fasteners on my car. They hold torque, don't corrode, and look nice. I'd never use them to replace critical bolts, but again, bolting on an ignition coil or an intake manifold is a lot different than supporting a subframe.
Anti-seize seems to work quite well in the long term in my experience. Just last weekend I removed a stainless bolt I had threaded into the aluminum body on my Insight. This bolt holds on the underbody panel and I installed it with anti-seize in 2003. Has not been touched until now. Came out easily with no signs of corrosion and the anti-seize was still gooey.
It's not like the steel fasteners don't corrode the aluminum on an FC anyway. They always come out with a white powder of aluminum oxide on the shank and threads, with that awesome squeaking sound.
I've not seen any issues with using stainless fasteners on my car. They hold torque, don't corrode, and look nice. I'd never use them to replace critical bolts, but again, bolting on an ignition coil or an intake manifold is a lot different than supporting a subframe.
Anti-seize seems to work quite well in the long term in my experience. Just last weekend I removed a stainless bolt I had threaded into the aluminum body on my Insight. This bolt holds on the underbody panel and I installed it with anti-seize in 2003. Has not been touched until now. Came out easily with no signs of corrosion and the anti-seize was still gooey.
It's not like the steel fasteners don't corrode the aluminum on an FC anyway. They always come out with a white powder of aluminum oxide on the shank and threads, with that awesome squeaking sound.
