amieles

im having a very difficult time finding my issue i hope i get some help, alright heres my senerio my car one day just didnt turn on it just clicked so changed out my starter and it started but really slow, so just for kicks and cuz i live in florida i bought a battery cuz i felt it needed to be changed anyways, so i got a optima...still the same issue, so i went in and replaced all my battery cables and cleaned all ground points (i.e. engine, body) still having a problem

fyi i have a s4 turbo II with a fmic so my battery is in the storage compartment behind my seat and my compression is fine new plugs and wires oil is clean (thought it could of been a bearing at some point)

any ideas i have a few more ideas but i wana some hear some input, i heard it could be my Neutral safety switch going bad or my ECU ive been told soo im lost

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

Did this issue just begin or did it start when the battery was moved to the middle/back of the car?

How 'slow' does it move? Does it even bounce the tach like its supposed to?

If the neutral safety switch was going bad, you wouldnt be able to start it at all, and the ecu has no bearing on how fast the starter spins the flywheel.

amieles

it just started this whole issue is recent, yea the tach bounces like normal

it takes like about 6 seconds to start which if you count it out loud its pretty long for a start

yea i agree with you it cant be the ECU cuz if it was that it would start or run at all, but if the neutral switch was going bad it still would start but it would take awhile if resistance builds up right?

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

Since yours is a turbo I imagine you do not have a voltmeter in the dash yes? Well since the battery is so close to you in the cabin, I'd recommend hooking up a multimeter and checking the voltages you get., even a "fresh" battery can be junk from the store. You should see over 12 volts before cranking and around 10 when cranking. After this I'd check other mechanical stuff.

amieles

already did that but thanks

i was looking into some old threads and other ppl have had similar issues but they called it "click click vroom" or a sticky starter it had something to do with the interlock switch and a blue connector under the trailing ignitor with a jumper wire...im familiar with the connector but i didnt understand what the heck that has to with a starter clicking an slow starts?

satch

iTrader: (1)

I'm assuming you have a factory alarm, and if so find the starter cut relay located near the trailing coil. This relay is bolted to the fender and has only one plug going to it (Main relay has two plugs so do not confuse the two). In the four wire starter cut relay plug is a Black/White wire which then leads down to the starter solenoid. With the car "not" in gear, jumper a wire from the positive battery terminal to this B/W wire and the starter should have no problem turning over. If it turns over properly then the problem lies before the B/W wire and if the starter does have problems turning over when jumpered then the problem lies after the B/W wire.

amieles

Ahhh man that was it the B/W going to the stater! Started up quick thanks

batmanfc

If it doesn't have a problem and it turns over properly what is the solution to this problem?

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

The problem WAS the collective corrosion on the 12+ connections between the battery and the (+) post of the stater solenoid. By bypassing all those corroded connections the starter received adequate amperage to turn over properly.
(don't confuse amperage w/voltage as a connection can show 12v and still be low on amperage)