well repalced my clutch last week... the pilot and throw-out bearings were completely shot and making terrible nosies. the noises are gone now.. and for the first couple days everything was fine... now i'm having trouble...

it grinds if i try to shift quickly into reverse or first after releasing the clutch pedal and depressing it again.. if i leave the clutch pedal down the whole time from goign form 4th to stop to first, for example, there is no problem. , if i shift slow it'll go in fine or if i put it in any other gear and 3rd 4th or 5th it'll go into first and reverse effortlessly... i've tried searching under various different keywords nothing quiet matches up to this... that i found atleast...

it could be the tranny going bad... because it was nearly impoosible to get into first and reverse when the pilot bearing completely failed i drove it home and parked it till i could repalce the clutch.. maybe this damaged the tranny?

i didn't repalce the hydraulics or bleed them or adjsut the pedal yet... this weekend i plan on flushing/bleeding the hydraulics.. the fluid in there now is black... i don't see any leaks though.. but i may attempt a rebuild of cylinders any ways can't hurt you know... also i'm goign to adjust the pedal...


is there anything else it could be and which is mostly liekly the culprit? i'm hoping it's the hydraulics...

thanks!

 

i did read somewhere that it could be the shifter bushings which i know are shot... buti wasn't sure if/how they'd effect shfiting into first or reverse.. any input from any one? i know my post kinda long just wanted to try and describe everything i've observed so far...

 

Adjust the pedal freeplay per fsm specs, and then ensure the clutch fully releases.

 

i'd love to know this myself..

i'm going through the exact same thing almost.. but just not as harsh going into gears.. but there is sometimes a bit of a clunk going into reverse,.. but i think its just a u-joint on its way out.

 

Remember, reverse doesn't have a syncro, so it will sometimes be hard to go in. First gear being tough is not normal, so check your clutch pedal and hydraulics. If those are fine I'd either live with it or get a new transmission.

 

I agree with Sean, make sure that it is adjusted properly as per the FSM.

This will ensure that it is fully releasing, otherwise it WILL be hard for the syncro rings in the transmission to match the rpm of the 2 gears before they mesh.

 

Actually, the S5's have a reverse gear synchro.

 

I've been reading the forum for a few months (doing last minute research before I bought), but this is my first post. I just purchased my RX-7 at the begining of september, but I've wanted one for several years. Its a red 88 convertible. After I had it a couple days then the clutch started acting funny. The pedal would go partway down by itself, and when I pushed it the rest of the way, the clutch wouldn't disengage. I think that problem may have been that the clutch needed to be bled, because it hasn't done it since I bled it. But it also shifts really slow between all gears... kinda feels like if you shift without the clutch by matching rpms how you have to push until its just right and drops in, but I have to push it pretty hard. Its a short shifter, so I'd expect it to be a little harder, but not like this... anyone have any ideas? Thanks guys!

 

Bleed the clutch system, set the freeplay (all via FSM), and perhaps get a heavier shifter **** to help those throws.

 

thanks for the advice, i'll adjust pedal first thing after work tonight and get back and let you know if that helped

 

how do you adjust the clutch first of as per FSM.......then second of all I have a problem for sure with my bushings......just pull the **** out and look....mine simply do not exist....it actually got bad enough to where my **** would spin a full 360 if i had it in the right spot....and I pulled it out and stuck it back in and for a day its shifted better tha ever...so make sure to replace them because you might have a tranny problem or some bushings that cost 20 bux from mazda trix might be all the issue

 

You follow the procedure listed on "clutch pedal freeplay adjustment" in the Factory Shop Manual.

Do you want someone to look it up and tell you exactly what to do? The FSM is available online...

 

fluid...syncro...

 

well adjusted pedal per fsm spec... it's significantly better but not gone.. but after the adjustment now that i think abotu it more, i think it's always had some issues with first and revere when shfiting in a a hurry just not as bad with the mis adjsuted clutch pedal... so there' probabaly something wrong with the tranny i could try the redline fluid.. i might... and i'll probabaly get the shifter bushings since theyre' pretty inexpensive and mine are kidna there but not all there...

but for now i'll just see how anoyoing it gets for me... all the other gears work fine... also i think i'll bleed the nasty fluid outta the hydraulics jsut for ***** and giggles tonight...

thanks for all the help.. learned a few things and that's the important part for me right now.. it's my first 7 and was also my first clutch job... plan on gettign anotehr one in a year or two when i'm outta school and have more money... so i'm sjut ina a learning stage right now...

 

I bled my cluth and now I can shift like I'm not retarded!

The pedal stuck to the floor a few time sduring bleeding and the fluid looked pretty bad, so I'm planning to swap out both the master and slave cylinders.