so tabs expire tommorrow. Have to pass emissions, removed airpump only so far, afraid of situation getting worse. So here's my numbers...


CRUISE HC (PPM) LIMIT: 160
CRUISE HC (PPM) EMISSIONS: 126
(PASS)

CRUISE CO (%) LIMIT: 1.1
CRUISE CO (%) EMISSIONS: .64
(PASS)

IDLE HC (PPM) LIMIT: 220
IDLE HC (PPM) EMISSIONS: 2280 ... Not kidding

IDLE C0 (%) LIMIT: 1.2
IDLE CO (%) EMISSIONS: 9.63
(FAIL FAIL FAIL!)

Washingtion state pwnd me freakin hard. One thing I did notice is the other day, I unplugged a vacuum hose from the bottem passanger side of my intake. It goes to the "pressure regulator" thing. And when I unplugged it My idle went up to like... 7 hundred. it was a very smooth idle. When I plugged it back in, my idle dropped to 500, which I thought would benifit me. reminder, its an 88 n/a vert...

 

Im getting 12.5 mpg if I baby it. I dont think I'm getting the power I should... UUUGH!

 

put your air pump back on!

 

yea you wont pass without the air pump and are the cats clogged? (3 on a stock 88n/a)

 

one of the main reasons Mazda put an airpump on there was for emissions at idle... the air pump doesn't do much at cruise, as the car can run leaner (and thus the cat works more efficiently and doesn't need the air pump). that's what all those emissions solenoids are for. They direct the air pump's output, either to the exhaust port, directly to the cat, or neither (to the silencer)

 

12.5.....I'm not a rotary expert, yet, but I'm pretty sure you're engine should be getting closer to 20ish or so. I would say rebuild your engine. lol or register your car in Salem if you know someone there. Also, you can search there is a thread on here somewhere that will show you how to pass that part of the emissions test.

 

Also if you have more air coming out of your exhaust pipe (meaning higher RPM) shouldn't the ppm go down considering there would be more parts? Just a theory.

 

Arghx makes sense.

The airpump supplys air to the exhaust PORTS at idle so the exhaust mixture will be closer to 14.7afr prior to going to the converter. The converter works more efficiently at 14.7afr.

Cruising, the 02 sensor is NOW in the loop. It tries to control the mixture to 14.7afr and does a good job of it in cruise. That explains why the Cruise figures meet specs, but idle does not. A normal, good idling RX puts out a afr of approx 13.0 give or take with no airpump air mixing with the exhaust gasses. No airpump air means bad results during emissions testing at idle.

 

So the guys from z-sport called me back, and told me that my fuel pressure sensor is bad, my fuel pressure dampener (whatever that is...) is bad, and im leaking fuel like a mother. they cannot waiver anything unless ALL the emissions parts are installed. so... im putting my airpump back on. I hope I still have it. anyone have one layin around they can GIIIIVE me?

Also, other than the dealership, where else can I get these parts?

 

all i needed to pass was a new cat and a new o2 sensor and i passed with flying colors. but all that ***** gone now, emissions is 95 and up where i am.

 

well thats what my initial thought was, but its only at an idle that I'm doing bad. did you have the problems I had?

 

Okay so I need to figure out where I can get these parts. I need a fuel pressure sensor, and a fuel dampener?? I'm not sure what that is but im going to research a little more today after work. Any referances would help a lot, thanks.

 

If you have a dual alt pulley I have an airpump for ya :P

 

you should look at the stock cats. mine wouldnt pass missouri's with the stock one. i went to auto zone and brought unvisals and had the muffler shop weld them on. passed then with no problem.

the fuel regator is on the fuel rail next to the intake piping. you can see it with no problem. it has a vacumm line running to it. the fuel damper is on the fuel rail you cant see its under the upper intake. it goes bad and starts to leak.

can cause fire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

'96 and up here...its wonderful!