NCross

iTrader: (18)

When i turn the key to ACC a loud solid beeeeeep comes on. The starter does not even try to engage. No clicks or anything. The fuel pump doesn;t try to kick on either. Just wondering what this could mean. The lighting etc works so I'm guessing the wiring isnt bad. All the engine parts are there. Some could be bad though I suppose. The guage says theres a 1/4 tank of gas but when i tap against the tank it sounds empty and does not slosh when you jiggle the car. Alternator could be bad, I could swap the good one from my running car over. battery is reading 14 volts and is from my good car. Comments, suggestions?

The rear rotor may be blown. I only get a faint poof when i turn it by hand.

celbii

iTrader: (2)

Put gas in it? Atf trick?

that nissan guy

iTrader: (2)

first of all do NOT use the atf trick...

the reason you have lost compression on one rotor is most likely because an apex seal is sticking and the best way to unstick it is to pull start the car with another car/truck... the gas probably wont slosh because the tank has baffling to prevent that especially on a 1/4 tank of gas... you could try putting gas in it anyways though...

if you have no start AND no fuel pump cycle then you most likely have an electrical problem which sadly you will most likely have to diagnose yourself... i would try thoroughly cleaning the battery terminals and wires first

ivegonemad

what if it has bad gas?? wouldnt it be better to drain the tank and add fresh new gas?? well if the starter doesnt click at all it maybe time for a new one...

zukskywalker

iTrader: (2)

It gets better than that. If left to sit for long enough, gasoline dries out and leaves behind a "clay" type substance that can clog things up real good. My rex sat for just over year and would fire up when primed but just wouldn't stay running. Turned out that the fuel pump was clogged up with this clay and I had to pull it out of the tank and clean it out by manually turning the pump unilt the clay broke up enough to get the pump motor to spin. After that, the joys of the FC!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

first, try to spin the engine over without trying to fire it up.

then, if you do, replace all the fluids in it ASAP. don't let it run for long.

then, what you need to do, is test the things that you say that aren't working. if they ain't working, then i guess you replace things that are broken?

that nissan guy

iTrader: (2)

because starters go bad from sitting in storage....?? dont think so, test it anyways then start checking for voltages

NCross

iTrader: (18)

im asking what one long solid beep from the buzzer under the dash means. the bigges issue at hand is that when i turn the key to START all i get is the beep and nothing else. no fuel pump, no starter. im thinking interlock switch?

and if you car turn the engine by hand how would an apex seal be stuck? i think i just need to put a bit of oil in the spark plug hole to regain compression. like i said theres a faint poof but not a big one like the front rotor. i pulled the plugs and cleaned them up. the battery is 6 months old and from my good car. alternator is in unknown condition. i can pull the alternator and the starter and have them tested for free. i cleaned the battery cables with some wire mesh so theyre smooth and shiny now.

im pretty sure that you could hear 4.2 gallons of gas sloshing around if you jiggled the car. im thinking its gummed up... ill pop the fuel pump cover to have a look to see if there's any gas. ill just drain it and put a couple gallons of new gas in it.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

also the clutch cylinder is bad so this could play a part in the interlock switch not working.

that nissan guy

iTrader: (2)

the apex seal does not literally SEIZE in place but sticks in the rotor... when the engine cranks the apex seals move ever so slightly in and out and what likely happened is that seal is simply sticking in to the point where there is a small gap between seal and housing and its not allowing the rotor to build compression...

the clutch switch is located on the clutch pedal assembly itself so a bad master cylinder would have no effect on its operation as long as you are getting full pedal travel...

what you could try and do is jumper the clutch interlock relay which would allow you to start the car whether the clutch is in or not... you could of course remove the jumper wire as soon as you sort the problem out... i dont see you getting that motor to start off of the starter only though...

what i would do is put about a teaspoon of oil into each rotor housing through the spark plug hole, swap your gas out, and call a buddy with a tow strap and a truck to get it to fire up... then afterwards when you know its not a bad motor try and fix the starter issue...

btw there are about 10000 different things that can cause a starter not to work so throwing parts at it is not a good idea.... you really need to get a volt meter and start checking connections

anyways good luck on whatever you do

NCross

iTrader: (18)

i know where the switch is at and was planning on "hard wiring" it just to see if that's what it is. Neither the fuel pump or the startup system come on. If it was a bad or tripped start cut relay it would still turn the starter motor but keep the coils from sparking correct? it has no security system installed so that's not the issue... I had a hunch it was the interlock since 87+ came with them and mine (86 GXL) did not. I'm not replacing any parts at all until I can get the thing running. I'm simply swaping what is needed over temporarily from my running car.

All it is missing is the intake elbow, coolent sensor on top of the radiator, one of the vacuum operated plugs by the dip stick, and a battery. it has 2 alternaters but I've been told theyre both bad so Im putting my good alternater on it when im playing with it.