Ok. Here's there deal. Car was running wacky. Found a ton of fuel in oil. Replaced plugs, wires and changed oil. Car still running wacky. I checked codes. Found tps was faulty and getting code 8 also which is the afm. Replaced tps. The old one was getting low medium low resistance readings. New one is good installed and added fresh fuel. Car starts and idles...plugs load up quick tho and dies. Cleared codes. 11 went away 8 is still there. My mechanic says to find a afm or someone that knows how to check the resistance readings on it. That's if there's any to check. He thinks the afm or the ecu has an issue and may need replacing. My car has the rtek 1.8 installed in ecu. Car meets all specs to the rtek unit. Car was running fine all last summer and this issue came outta nowhere. We've found a possible issue I just would like some input before purchasing an afm or what I should do next.

 

RotaryHeads.com - 2nd Gen RX-7 PDF Technical Manuals FC3S should be in here. or satch will know off the top of his head

 

When dealing with rotaries, always compression test first.

 

The FSM details how to check the AFM. You could also unplug the AFM and jumper the fuel check connector. Then try starting the car and applying the throttle to see if the car stays running. Remember though, that you should not run the car for more than a brief time w/the AFM unplugged as it will overheat the exhaust system.

 

Compression is good. We checked after oil change and new plugs/wires.

 

Where is the fuel check connector located? And what if car doesn't stay running? Does that mean the ecu is possibly faulty? And if it does stay running that means the afm is faulty?

 

It's part of the emission harness and is between the engine and passenger fender well. The harness feeds the boost sensor. The connector is encased in a Black rubber boot. The plug is Yellow. It has two wires where one is Brown and the other is Black. The circuit opening relay has these two wires on the bottom row of the plug. These wires being jumpered achieves the same thing. The relay is Black and Yellow and located under the dash and to the right of the steering column. Has 5 wires in all (3 on the top row and 2 on the bottom row).

If the car behaves better w/the AFM unplugged then it it likely the cause but it's not a guarantee. Using the method in the FSM to check it would give you some insight.

 

You PM'd me with exactly the same message. So I will answer here where it should be answered so others may contribute and be helped.

What was "wacky" mean? Oddly no one has asked that. A description of what the car is doing would help greatly.

Some oil pollution is normal, but if it is excessive, it may simply indicate a sticking injector. Very common issue especially if the car has been sitting.

 

Well I've tried to explain the wacky before lol. Most times I start the car it will run and idle fine. Soon as you go to rev it starts to break up. Then the car will die and it's hard to start again. I'm assuming that it's flooding out. When I first took car to mech that's what I told him. Before starting car he found the excess fuel and the bad plugs. He also checked the codes. We almost got every code possible lol. But the main ones we worried about were 8,11,12. Well we checked tps it was acting all crazy. Replaced it. Reset codes and now I'm getting 8,25 and 30-35. The CEL was not actually on. We pulled those codes before starting the car after the install of new tps. Started car. Idles fine. Still acts the same tho when revving. Mech thinks it's the maf. I checked it. There's no resistance reading on es-vs open or closed. Es-THA is to spec as is es-vc. I'm trying to find a afm to replace mine. I believe it's the culprit. Lmk what you think.

 

If you're not getting the correct readings on the AFM, then that's the first place to start.

 

Checking resistance on the MAF/AFM is pretty easy. Just pull the MAF/AFM and put leads of the DMM on where the FSM specifies.

 

got one on the way.

checked resistance and it's not getting a reading on one connections. ordered a replacement. Hopefully this long drawn out problem has a simple solution.

Thanks guys.

 

barkz. Thanks for the link! Effin legit.

 

Silly question. Can I use a n350 afm? Pretty sure that's the n/a afm. Since these idiots at some parts place sent me the wrong afm. Just my luck.

 

Refurbished AFM's from parts stores are poor quality. A used one purchased from a fellow member is a safer bet.



https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...t-s5-n-231780/

 

Ok I'm gonna answer my own question. I looked at FSM. compared the readings on the n/a and turbo afm and they seem to be exactly the same.

Ok now after debating and researching I slapped it on the car. Cleared codes. Check codes. Everything is gone. Started the car. Idles perfect. Warmed to op temp. Drove it!!! And RIPPED IT!!! Brapppppp brapppp. IM BACK IN BUSINESS!!!!

If anyone knows that these afms are different lmk. But I think I'm good.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!

Love the rotary community!!!

 

lol just saw this satch. So as long as I don't go WOT I should be good until I find a correct replacement?

 

For the most part yes, but the longer you leave the situation unattended the worse off you will be. If you need to drive the car do so at low rpms or you could damage the engine.