RotaMan99

im going to guess that you need to hot wire the full range sensor meaning have a fixed voltage to the full range TPS input at the ECU on pin 2G for possibly idle or 1/4 throttle. Then possibly figure out what the voltage is at pin 2A (omp position sensor) at idle or 1/4 throttle and use a voltage divider or adjustable pot to get the voltage at pin 2A where it should be at the specific throttle point ?

this way the ECU always thinks the omp is in the right position at a fixed throttle point. The full range TPS is only used for the OMP.

Just a guess. I wish I had a S5 to play with cause I have been wanting to try this forever.

RotaMan99

It is determined by throttle position, I hope nothing else, but I don't think it would work to hook the omp wires to the TPS. The OMP position sensor gets ground and a vref (4.5-5v) voltage just like the TPS, AFM, boost sensor from the same wires. vref is on pin 2I.

JasonDowney

iTrader: (1)

You could probably dissasemble the omp and figure out a way to close it permanently. The motor spins and shaft that extends and retracts. Possibly cut the shaft short so that it never actuates the omp? That way the ecu would see everything as working, but it in reality wouldnt be.

RotaMan99

You wouldn't have to cut the shaft, there is a spring on the front of the OMP behind a cover. Remove that spring and the shaft will never move up and down and wont pump the oil.

This is not saying that the oil pressure being force AT the omp, not IN, may be enough to slowly push the oil through the oil injectors.

RotaMan99

^ I think this is where the OMP position sensor comes into play. I have a S5 OMP torn apart, I should go take a look at it. I don't think there is any way to internally disable the OMP without it going into limp mode. Then again I dunno.

BTW, at idle at Pin 2A it should be about 1v. At idle the Pin 2G ( full range TPS ) should read .80v . So with those numbers, maybe add an adjustable pot to those pins and dial in those volts and disconnect the OMP and full range TPS. Then see if the ECU goes into limp mode.

Driftntha7

Or you can do what I did, take the omp out and extend the wires. Then mount the OMP by the ECU using the top right bolt.

that way the OMP isnt in the engine bay, and all you have to do is run the plugs from where the ecu wires come from, and leave them plugged in.

RotaMan99

You could have just cut the old wire wrap off and pulled the wires back toward the ECU instead of extending them.

inflatablepets

I wanted to totally eliminate mine, but with the stock ECU that's just not possible. For the time being, I blocked off holes in the bolts with JB Weld. I run 1 oz per gallon and have had no problems for the last two years. BTW I use JASO FC spec oil at a minimum. It's designed for air cooled engines that run very high RPM.

RotaMan99

Can anyone try putting the right voltage to the to the pins I listed and see if it works?

Driftntha7

I did cut the old wire wraps off, and the wire isnt long enough to reach into the engine bay. So i extended them. I already did it and it works, and my engine bay looks cleaner with no omp.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

ok..... I'm planning on doing something like this this weekend, my question is, what the hell do you do with the lines after you block off the injectors? the pump still pumps oil right? so do you just have oil leaking all over the place?

simoncbrr1

Buddy of mine used to stick a resistor in the plug....... However it only fooled the ECU for 10 minutes at a time so while you were driving you had to switch the ignition on and off. It was annoying as hell! We never could figure out a resistor to fool the ECU 100 percent of the time. Im gonna call MythBusters, Maybe they can figure it out????

RotaMan99

What wires/pin did he put the resistor on?I think you would need to apply the right voltage to the pin for the full range and the OMP position sensor as it seems that would work. They both work together.

RX7 allnight

rtek chip..

Delphince

If this is your reason for wanting to remove the OMP, it's been covered a thousand times. Unless you're using BillyBob's Full Synthetic, modern synthetics have extremely low or zero sulphates and create little/no ash, less than regular oil. They're not going to gum up your engine being injected by the OMP. In fact, the higher thermal stability of synthetics means it'll provide a stronger film for the apex seals.

micah

Screw removing it... I would like to be able to modify the output of the pump to burn a little more oil actually.. and pull it from a reservoir.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Rotary aviation makes a kit to pull oil from an external source. One of my FD friends had it on his. He made a 2 chamber catch can. Top was filled with 2 cycle, bottom was the catch can. Even had a petcock on the bottom for easy draining. Beauty of it was it looked like a simple catch, but had a dual purpose.

micah

Yeah, but they don't appear to make it for the S5 OMP.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

Unless the 3rd gen electronic one will fit the S5.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

It can be modified.

bumpstart

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...65#post8164165

bumpstart

bumpy

OK, i have been out there puzzling this one
and in helping to make a stand alone EOMP driver
i made a few insights into the EOMP miracle

OEM manufacturers use various strategies to fail-safe their ECU and wiring systems in case sensor signals short together

the mazda TPS and the EOMP feedback sensor ( MPS )share common 5 V supply
on appearance of the scales of resistance of both units
( and observation of the physical shimming of metering position sensor, and the output arm )
rather than just a fixed resistance offset like some other manufactures use for self check strategy
the ECU is happy when it retains a linear 50 % scale relationship to the TPS
( in digital values it has assigned to the various analog ins )


therefore, in laymans
without the complication of the load modifiers from MAF and rev digital values and measured at the analog pin ins
-the stock ECU should never be at the same voltage from TPS or MPS
( unless they short together)
and only temporarily when the EOMP output arm is in transition V TPS

EG
the metering position sensor ( MPS ) starts at 0.5 K ohm to 2.5 k ohm +/- .5k ohm
and the TPS is offset with a starting resistance of 1 k to 5 k ohm + /- 1k ohm


in the usable range, TPS can hit 5 volts at the top
and the MPS will be less than 5 volts ( 2.5 )
Both sensors are linear response yet 50 % offset

so fixing your MPS pin in signal for your OEM ECU to go premixing isn't going to work , the ECU isn't going to be fooled simply

however PIC programmers would quickly work out a circuit to read the TPS
and reproduce its analog signal in pure, and another analog at 2.5 V for half scale for the MPS
and feed that lot at your factory pin ins




----


i guess the easiest way of fooling the limp for most is mechanically
- with the tie it in a corner removed and blanked trick

or you could try removing the MPS and fitting it to cam off the throttle with the full range TPS
- the MPS in shortest stroke represents EOMP in least flow, and TPS shut
( and revs and load low )
( reversing the wiring inverts operation )


------------------



as explained , the resistor trick is never going to cut it
but its not within realms of most hobbists to halve the TPS signal for the MPS pin and then re amplify the original signal for the TPS pin in

for those who want calibratable user EOMP control for performance and economy oil modes or for LPG
( or want to use an s5 motor in an s4 with s4 ECU )

here is the TPS only evolution of our hobby stand alone EOMP controller
it PIC based, with superior to factory position fidelity
and uses simple digital logic when compared to the factory self check
it is designed to be fairly hunt resistant, even when faced with dead spotted and sick ranged MPS or TPS
( which i fear is the main cause of many stock ECU and EOMP fails and limps )
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=PD3082fzOBI

its evolving to 3D MAP and revs and blue screen soon

The Griffin

Are you planning to sell these as DIY kits or complete units anytime soon? I don't think you need to get really elaborate with these as 2Dmapping,load(map)/rpm would do the trick. I'm sure you would sell a number of these as they have the advantage of adding extra oil in the high load areas where premix , mech. omp are a trade-off that "over-oil" in the low load areas.An error checking circuit to warn of a crapped out OMP would be nice also but depending on the added complexity ,you could disregard it as I'm pretty sure the Apexi "Power FC" just has a function of driving the OMP and no feedback control...cheers

bumpstart

i am not an official advertiser here ( yet )
and am am not any official company ( as yet )
but this is not yet a full end product ( yet )

these are protected code prototypes
- beta test boards built solely at a hobby level
with eye to development
- have they enough interest
the TPS with trim version only is already proven at a beta level
one test version making a marked improvement in oil consumption over a fixed rate s5 eomp setup, whilst operating a wider scale !
we can make subsided betas avail by private PM for selected people in the need now
- on an evaluation/feedback loop situation only



we ( the two of us in the team )
are developing the TPS version to a 3d map level
= rpm x MAP ( load ) x TPS
with user input for + /- total flow, and for user adjust rpm and load mapping
- they will represent a major upgrade on the very low OEM output definition

( planning a few other nice other outputs for it also )

i am aware of a few aftermarket ECU that run stepper controllers with a wind count
- not many run a feedback loop
( very necessary in some applications )

the idea is this unit can supplement any ECU, and allow you to instead re-use any previous stepper outs
( usually reconfigurable )
- steppers rob 4 outs and 2 power
- feedback stepper rob 4 outs, 2 x power , 1 x 5 V bus and 2 ins

that's a lot of stuff for your ECU to use as something else
- its also a handy boon for your microtech which has no idea about steppers
- its a bonus for the s4 owner with a s5 import engine and his original ECU
- and lets you chuck a propane mixer on a late block , EOMP guaranteed

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

does anybody know which are the bolts that need to be removed so i can remove the omp??? are they the bolts with the orange arrows? ive searched the forums and looked in the fsm but i cant find an answer. my car is an s5.
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/?action=view&current=omp.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v369/fatness3000/omp.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

anybody? please!