Brian Deane

so i just got a new ecu for my car since my last one was completely shot and wouldnt pull codes then it just stopped working overall lol i got a new one and it works beautifully and i checked the code and its for the AFM which would explain the ability not to rev past 3k. Is there a chance i can save this AFM but taking it off and cleaning it? just curious dont like spending money if i dont have too

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

where there is a will there is a way.

i never had the will and trying to clean it without disassembling it didn't work at all. the metal cage that holds it together would have to be cut open and put back together afterwards somehow.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could test the input signal voltage at pin 2B of the ECU (Green wire) w/key to on and it should read 4 volts (and 2.5 to 3.5 volts while idling) this is the wire going to the AFM. At the AFM itself the two Brown/Black wires are grounds, Brown/White registers about 5 volts w/key to on and the Green/Orange wire reads between 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and the air temp at 68 Fahrenheit. And do you remember which #code you got?

Brian Deane

okay thanks! ill try that after i go to the store for some oil/filter! ill get back to yah

Brian Deane

so i tried to clean it with MAF cleaner and no luck. the light will come on only under heavy WOT then itll bog. i can restart the car to take the light off and drive normally it seems like but if i floor it after a second the light pops and and itll bog like in limp mode any ideas?

Brian Deane

maybe its missing a vacuum line from the AFM...the afm is supposed to have one right?

satch

iTrader: (1)

No, just the intake duct and connection to the air box. Did you bother to check the voltage readings as suggested?

Dr-Zine

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue a while back. I cracked open my afm and cleaned it. I found some interesting videos on you tube and I posted my findings here. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...build-1038173/

Brian Deane

you had the same exact issue? so youre 99% sure thats probably my issue? if so ill get some jb weld and do that right now lol also it looks like my 6 port actuators havent moved in ages...think thatll do something with the AFM? i wouldnt think so

Brian Deane

i tried and got nothing. bottom right of the smallest middle plug correct? its green and the diagram says it 2b. can i take the plug out? or do i have to go from behind the plug

ALSO the code was just 1 long blink so thats 10. thats the AFM

Brian Deane

i got some numbers for yah! 4 volts with key on and 2.5 on idle and it drops to 1.2-1.4 if i hold the gas at about 2.5k rpm

satch

iTrader: (1)

That appears right.

Brian Deane

ok cool so you think i should take it apart as stated above and clean up all the connections? worth a shot?

Dr-Zine

iTrader: (1)

Same issue as in getting the AFM cel from the ecu and going into limp mode. Yes. Just pull the AFM out and put and ohm meter on the ground and signal contacts. push in the cone and see what the reading is. You should get a smooth low to high reading. Check the fsm for exact numbers. If it jumps all over the place the the contact strips of the potentiometer is dirty or broken. The case of the meter is plastic, so you should use a plastic epoxy instead of jb weld. Your aux ports have nothing to do with the AFM fyi.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could check your secondary injectors by unplugging the TPS, removing the vacuum hose to the pressure sensor (this simulates load on the engine which is required to activate the secondary injectors) and the engine can be free reved while in neutral and just see if you can get the rpm to climb above 3K. The AFM itself might interfere with this but if you have the time and you want to expllore some things then it might be worth the time. Also, the car can be run very briefly w/o the AFM plugged in (on an S4 the fuel check connector needs to be jumpered, but I don't think that's the case on the S5). If you do this just free rev the car while simulating load just to check to see if you can climb above the 3k threshold. Shut the car off immediately after doing this check for the exhaust manifold will glow due to the excess fuel injected w/o the AFM plugged in.

Brian Deane

satch just did that i got it to rev to 6k easily. i couldnt floor it cuz of the AFM but i just barely touch the gas and it goes up smoothly! and dr-zine ill do that right now! just gotta found out which connector is negative :p

Brian Deane

okay testing the ohms its pretty messed up it seems like... with the plunger in all the way its at like 75 then slowly opening it back up it the ohms go up obviously but theres points where itll drop alot go back up and drop theres like 4 spots it does this in

Brian Deane

fix didnt work for me sadly :/ just got one on ebay for $20 so hopefully its working good as stated!