WKZ (Works)

Engine fires over and runs, but often takes alot of trying in order to do so. Engine fires over, but doesn't necessarily run. When it does, it rolls/surges between 1500-3000 RPM. I've checked for vacuum leaks, I've adjusted the TPS as per FSM. When the engine is up to temperature, the BAC idle screw, variable resistor, and ignition timing adjustments (via CAS) don't seem to have any effect. (yes, I'm using the jumper wire as well at the connector)

Kind of at a loss here.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The TPS needs to be adjusted w/the engine as warm as it's going to get. If you haven't done this then one thing you could do is either let it idle for about 30 minutes or press upward on the throttle linkage at the front of the throttle body as much as possible to get the idle speed down. This should have the same affect as diabling the fast idle mechanism. The Green/Red wire of the TPS should read 1 volt, engine fully warmed. Adjusting the idle w/a high idle is problematic because the timing advances when the rpm is above 1100 or so. The Variable Resistor will have a minor affect and it needs to be adjusted w/the engine also fully warmed up. And the Intake hose has a place or two that can leak if you haven't ruled that out.

WKZ (Works)

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J5sense

iTrader: (3)

Fresh rebuilds always are hard to start and flood easy. even my mazda reman motor flooded and ran like crap for a few hundered miles till it built compression..

But that lumpy idle. you have a vac leak my friend. most likely a block off plate take some carb clean and spray around the intake untill the idle changes.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

very clean car though

WKZ (Works)

...thanks.

...anyway, I took off the throttle body, looked at it, cleaned it, and made adjustments were I could see adjustments to be made. The fast idle cam was keeping the throttle slightly opened, so I adjusted its screw until it was out-of-the-way of the throttle linkage. As such, I also re-adjusted the TPS. Throttle is almost completely closed now.

As for the results, the car starts much, much easier now; the rolling surge doesn't happen immediately (although I think it was starting to do so after the coolant temperature reached 180°F), the car now idles around 1700-2000 RPM...so, yeah. I guess I'll take a spray bottle to it.

WKZ (Works)

Sprayed it, no change in idle. I wonder if I can even get an accurate reading. Unfortunately, the tach is dead, so I can't tell for certain (don't have another).

Anyway, I adjusted the ignition timing to stock spec, and played with the variable resistor a bit to cut down on the gas smell at idle. I also drove it on the road today. Gauges don't seem to work all the time unless they're mechanical. I had to replace the meter fuse, so I probably have a short there, too. As far as the driving impression, it often hesitates, but when it finally goes, it goes. 1st and 2nd gear under boost have no traction whatsoever. I doubt it's a grounding problem as I have replaced the motor mounts with solid aluminum bushings, grounding shouldn't be any problem at all at this point. Also the thing backfires often, perhaps more often than it should.

As long as I was out, I topped off the fuel tank and washed the car as well. Still have a way to go, but I'm getting there.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

make sure your cas is stabbed correctly? seems like the timing is way off

Gregory Casimir

iTrader: (8)

lucky me to find someone else who is in the same position as me! lol my car has been down since 2007. I just rebuilt it now and I'm stuck with the same gremlins as you with the engine not idling, flooding the holy crap out of it, and my gauges don't work too (my tach and speedo do but not my water temp, oil pressure, and voltage). I see somethings here I'm gonna try when i have time this week. Good luck dude!

WKZ (Works)

Checked it with the timing light. Seems to be where it needs to be (i.e. 5°/20°ATDC Leading/Trailing). I doubt at this point that an accurate RPM can be gauged inductively via the plug wires at this point. Reason being is that I can lean the idle mixture via the variable resistor and the engine eventually bogs to the point of barely running before stalling, plus the fact I have to rev it more just to start from a stop, lest it stall. I doubt that would be a problem at 2k-3k RPM.

I need to get the tach working if I can. If the thing really is dead, is there any reason I couldn't just use a 9K RPM tach out of a naturally-aspirated Series V? The extra 1K RPM would be nice.

WKZ (Works)

Great, now something's causing the meter fuse to blow. Dammit.