I have a 13b bridge ported that mostly in the morning the cloud of smoke is crazy. I dont know what it might be! Please help

 

You're sure it's oil? Is it turbo? When was it ported?

 

does the oil cloud stop shortly after starting up?

 

I have the same problem, it's either one of two things; oil control rings or coolant seals.

 

No.

- Ted

 

I dont know when it was ported i bought it like that. No is not turbo

 

I did an oil change and added 1 QT of lucas oil. The smoking decreased about 80%

 

bridges usually tend to leak down after shutting the car off overnight, not sure why it is and also depends how much you think is a lot. smoking out the block is obviously an issue and likely poorly inspected/installed oil control seals.

 

It doesnt leak out of the block thanks god but after the engine shuts down just like you said the next day it smokes a lot until it warms up

 

i meant the street. aka clouds of thick smoke.

 

Yes a big cloud of smoke

 

then you probably got a rebuilt engine with worn out components, ie someone reused irons that have well beyond spec for iron and oil seal tract step wear on the irons.

 

Yea thats what i thought

 

I going to put a turbo 2 instead of fixing the N/A

 

a rebuild with new oil control rings and lapped housings would be much CHEAPER, and alot more fun in the long run, if you're this unfamilure with them, it would be a nightmare for you to do a turbo swap. sell it and buy a turbo II, or keep it N/a and rebuild, or just drive like it is. FUUHK it.

 

why would it be a nightmare to do a swap? I am buying a stock t2 engine and ECU and as far as i know its not much of a difference from a t2 and the gtu. Correct me if im wrong plz. I am going for the t2 no matter what. i bought my car F**** up! the interior was bad and body still needs body work but i already have the interior completely done nothing left to fix in there. So im not going to sell it. Thats why i would like some guidance here.

Thanks

 

there's more to a real turbo swap than just the engine, ECU and wiring harness. there is the clutch, flywheel transmission, driveshaft, differential, hood, fuel pump, half shafts and the brakes/hubs if it is a 4 lug. then there is the wiring differences between the 2 models, instrument cluster, etc.

most people half *** it and i wind up having to make them a list to make the car actually safe to drive, most neglect to even change the fuel pump and airflow meter...

 

If they dont change the afm I am guess they dont switch the map either.

 

I understand there is more to it but half of what you mentioned my car already has it.
the gauge can be added thats no prob.

I just got the the t2 calipers yesterday. what is the half shafts you mentioned and afm?

link below has pics
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/393741...7-gtu-coupe-2d

 

If you are converting an n/a to a T2, not to be confused with turboing an n/a motor.
You will need:
1. T2 longblock; any year will work in any year chassis, as long as you have the motor mounts/brackets for the mounts; suggest getting new mounts/competition mounts
2. T2 wiring harness of the same series motor(s4:86-88)(s5:89-91); The wiring harness can me mismatched if you change the injectors or just their connectors on the wiring harness, and change all the sensors.
3. T2 computer of the same series, or a standalone engine management system, In most cases come with their own wiring harness, except AEM, if so skip step #2
4. Oil metering pump; S5(s) have an electronic unit that needs to be plugged into the computer or else it will make the car run in "limp" mode. If you have an s5 motor and want to run an s4 ecu you have to either swap an s4 front cover/omp on the s5 motor or run premix. If you have an s5 ecu you must keep the electronic omp plugged in, but you still could run strictly premix or a the s4 mechanical omp, or both in conjuction.
5. You will need all the sensors, pressure sensor, afm, tps etc of the same series harness/ecu.
6. You will want, but don't have to have a t2 drivetrain, if driven on lightly and not raced an N/A drivetrain can handle it. But do things right if you can afford it. You wil need the whole drivetrain; Tranny(and same series/t2 tranny mount), driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. You should also swap in new competition mounts. You need the same series clutch/pp of the engine also. You can keep the diff/halfshafts on an n/a and use a custom driveshaft in conjuction with a t2 tranny if you want, but the t2 rearend can handle more power. N/a shifter will work on a T2 tranny. You also need t2 slave cylinder.
7. T2 hood/stock intercooler, or front mount intercooler, stock blow off valve or aftermarket unit
8. Im not too sure on this, cuz I skipped this step. You need the t2 dash and dash harness from the same series ecu.
9. T2 throttle cable
Everything else is the same. Make sure you have a garage, and lots of tools, and a space heater if you live in the colder climates, expect to spend a decent amount of time, especially if its your first swap. I doubt you will ever look back though.

Do your research buddy or it can become very expensive to learn as you go...

 

that seems like a lot of work to put in a FC. Not worth it

Thank you all for the help