Running stock turbo dry (no coolant) and using a turbo timer, good/bad/insane?
07-15-05, 01:00 AM
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Running stock turbo dry (no coolant) and using a turbo timer, good/bad/insane?
Going to be putting the engine back together here soon, but since my housings were kinda toast I'll be using FD housings.
The FD housings don't have the coolant feed, so I'm either stuck running the turbo dry (is anyone doing that?) or I need to find a new place to pull coolant from.
If I need to re-route coolant from somewhere else, can I use the feed that's on top of the engine, and then just block off where it goes into the back of the water pump? (the coolant line highlighted in the attached picture). When I got the car, that line was very ghetto (as you can see), so I think it was probably the line that used to feed the accelerated warm-up, right?
Anyway, any input would be great.
The FD housings don't have the coolant feed, so I'm either stuck running the turbo dry (is anyone doing that?) or I need to find a new place to pull coolant from.
If I need to re-route coolant from somewhere else, can I use the feed that's on top of the engine, and then just block off where it goes into the back of the water pump? (the coolant line highlighted in the attached picture). When I got the car, that line was very ghetto (as you can see), so I think it was probably the line that used to feed the accelerated warm-up, right?
Anyway, any input would be great.
07-15-05, 11:17 AM
#4
Haven't we ALL heard this
Dude, if you got the turbo that you can risk it with .... I would say go for it!
I am going to guess ANY answer you get here is based on zero experience.
So, if you can risk it...I say go for it and see what happens....
James
I am going to guess ANY answer you get here is based on zero experience.
So, if you can risk it...I say go for it and see what happens....
James
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07-15-05, 01:02 PM
#8
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It's simple to prove, look at the 1984 Nissan 300ZX Turbo.
Original turbos had no additional cooling. It generated so many complaints and had such high failure that for 1985 model year the turbo was revised to include cooling.
Original turbos had no additional cooling. It generated so many complaints and had such high failure that for 1985 model year the turbo was revised to include cooling.
07-15-05, 01:18 PM
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Wow, such useful answers. 
Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.
Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?
Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.
Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.
Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?
Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.
07-15-05, 03:03 PM
#12
Originally Posted by slpin
turbo spins more than 50k rpm
many MANY other turbo that spins higher have no coolant
shut up!
many MANY other turbo that spins higher have no coolant
shut up!
I understand that the turbo doesn't spin at 50k RPM, it was just a number I pulled out of my ***.
But thanks for the thought.
Also, I think you need to move some s's around in that sentence for it to make any sense.
07-15-05, 03:30 PM
#14
I would think tht the turbo'd cooling abilities woulc be cut in half.
On all oil turbo's the entire cartidge is used for cooling.
Now cut that space in half and leave it void instead of running coolant through it.
Honestly find a way to get the coolant in there.
On all oil turbo's the entire cartidge is used for cooling.
Now cut that space in half and leave it void instead of running coolant through it.
Honestly find a way to get the coolant in there.
07-15-05, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by evileagle
I understand that the turbo doesn't spin at 50k RPM, it was just a number I pulled out of my ***.
But thanks for the thought.
Also, I think you need to move some s's around in that sentence for it to make any sense.
But thanks for the thought.
Also, I think you need to move some s's around in that sentence for it to make any sense.
Dont worry about him. He's just a sad little man that enjoys nothing more than pissing people off and cursing all over the forum.
07-15-05, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Wow, such useful answers.
Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.
Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?
Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.
Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.
Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?
Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.
Yea thats how i have my turboed n/a setup with the coolant.
07-15-05, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by The Spyder
Why not just drill out the rear housing? Thats what you do when you have to use a NA housing on a turbo housing.
07-15-05, 10:19 PM
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Yeah, I'd find an alternate source. Your idea that is posted in the picture looks alright, I see a feed line, but where is the drain line underneath the turbo?
Finally, for NA turbo conversions, most guys use the coolant lines that run from the TB to the BAC valve and back to the water pump housing. If you don't use the BAC or the TB warmup system, using this would be ideal.
The reason that mazda, like a few people have mentioned already, included a water cooled turbo was so that customers did not need to buy or worry about turbo timing. It also GREATLY increases the turbos bearing life. You can run it without water cooling, but like aaron said, there really isn't any reason why NOT to.
good luck.
Finally, for NA turbo conversions, most guys use the coolant lines that run from the TB to the BAC valve and back to the water pump housing. If you don't use the BAC or the TB warmup system, using this would be ideal.
The reason that mazda, like a few people have mentioned already, included a water cooled turbo was so that customers did not need to buy or worry about turbo timing. It also GREATLY increases the turbos bearing life. You can run it without water cooling, but like aaron said, there really isn't any reason why NOT to.
good luck.
07-16-05, 02:20 AM
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Why cant you just use the one on the rear platE? and the drain just plug it up to the WP housing... I mean come on its not that difficult.... theres no complication... plenty of places to pull water from...If oil was the problem, then I would understand, but water?
O and if you wanna check if the place you pulled water from is sufficient, just connect the supply to the turbo and disconnect the drain. Turn on the car and check for water, you should be able to make a decision if there is sufficient water.
O and if you wanna check if the place you pulled water from is sufficient, just connect the supply to the turbo and disconnect the drain. Turn on the car and check for water, you should be able to make a decision if there is sufficient water.
Last edited by MARTIN; 07-16-05 at 02:22 AM.