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Running stock turbo dry (no coolant) and using a turbo timer, good/bad/insane?

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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:00 AM
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Running stock turbo dry (no coolant) and using a turbo timer, good/bad/insane?

Going to be putting the engine back together here soon, but since my housings were kinda toast I'll be using FD housings.

The FD housings don't have the coolant feed, so I'm either stuck running the turbo dry (is anyone doing that?) or I need to find a new place to pull coolant from.


If I need to re-route coolant from somewhere else, can I use the feed that's on top of the engine, and then just block off where it goes into the back of the water pump? (the coolant line highlighted in the attached picture). When I got the car, that line was very ghetto (as you can see), so I think it was probably the line that used to feed the accelerated warm-up, right?

Anyway, any input would be great.
Attached Thumbnails Running stock turbo dry (no coolant) and using a turbo timer, good/bad/insane?-coolanthose.jpg  
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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Nobody has any ideas/experiences with this?
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:43 AM
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higher rpms == more heat

turbo at 50,000 RPMs == more heat

more heat + no coolant == bad
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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Dude, if you got the turbo that you can risk it with .... I would say go for it!

I am going to guess ANY answer you get here is based on zero experience.

So, if you can risk it...I say go for it and see what happens....

James
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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even im wondering what would happen how about you take some pics to ;D
TwEaK
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by evileagle
higher rpms == more heat

turbo at 50,000 RPMs == more heat

more heat + no coolant == bad

turbo spins more than 50k rpm

many MANY other turbo that spins higher have no coolant

shut up!
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:48 PM
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most turbo that have coolant and a oil option need both for cooling..
use it or the turbo will have a short life
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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It's simple to prove, look at the 1984 Nissan 300ZX Turbo.

Original turbos had no additional cooling. It generated so many complaints and had such high failure that for 1985 model year the turbo was revised to include cooling.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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Wow, such useful answers.

Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.

Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?

Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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You'd most likely be able to get away with it, however I'd take the time as Aaron has said and tap into a coolant source.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:56 PM
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Yea thats how i have my turboed n/a setup with the coolant.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by slpin
turbo spins more than 50k rpm

many MANY other turbo that spins higher have no coolant

shut up!

I understand that the turbo doesn't spin at 50k RPM, it was just a number I pulled out of my ***.

But thanks for the thought.

Also, I think you need to move some s's around in that sentence for it to make any sense.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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run a seperate coolent line. just get an inline pump, and have a resovour, and a heat exchanger. simple a that no fuss no muss.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 03:30 PM
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I would think tht the turbo'd cooling abilities woulc be cut in half.

On all oil turbo's the entire cartidge is used for cooling.

Now cut that space in half and leave it void instead of running coolant through it.

Honestly find a way to get the coolant in there.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by evileagle
I understand that the turbo doesn't spin at 50k RPM, it was just a number I pulled out of my ***.

But thanks for the thought.

Also, I think you need to move some s's around in that sentence for it to make any sense.

Dont worry about him. He's just a sad little man that enjoys nothing more than pissing people off and cursing all over the forum.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Wow, such useful answers.

Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.

Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?

Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.
I wouldn't have a problem just drilling the FD housing, the problem is trying to drill a lip for the o-ring to sit in.

Yea thats how i have my turboed n/a setup with the coolant.
What is how you have it? Using the line I had in the pic I posted or what?
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Why not just drill out the rear housing? Thats what you do when you have to use a NA housing on a turbo housing.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by The Spyder
Why not just drill out the rear housing? Thats what you do when you have to use a NA housing on a turbo housing.
Like I said I'm OK doing that, the problem is machining out a groove for the o-ring to sit in.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:19 PM
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Yeah, I'd find an alternate source. Your idea that is posted in the picture looks alright, I see a feed line, but where is the drain line underneath the turbo?
Finally, for NA turbo conversions, most guys use the coolant lines that run from the TB to the BAC valve and back to the water pump housing. If you don't use the BAC or the TB warmup system, using this would be ideal.
The reason that mazda, like a few people have mentioned already, included a water cooled turbo was so that customers did not need to buy or worry about turbo timing. It also GREATLY increases the turbos bearing life. You can run it without water cooling, but like aaron said, there really isn't any reason why NOT to.

good luck.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MountainTurbo
Like I said I'm OK doing that, the problem is machining out a groove for the o-ring to sit in.
I had a buddy at the machine shop do it for $20. Shouldnt be that hard to have done.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:33 PM
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Don't use an o-ring. Drill it and tap it for a hose barb and connect the hose to that.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
Don't use an o-ring. Drill it and tap it for a hose barb and connect the hose to that.
LOL.

Seems like you have no idea what we are talking about....
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 12:52 AM
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id say, if its designed to have water and oil cooling stock, it must have it for a reason!,

so id find a way to add water line to it.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
Don't use an o-ring. Drill it and tap it for a hose barb and connect the hose to that.

yeah great idea.

EXCEPT THERES AN INTAKE MANIFOLD SITTING ONTOP OF IT.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 02:20 AM
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Why cant you just use the one on the rear platE? and the drain just plug it up to the WP housing... I mean come on its not that difficult.... theres no complication... plenty of places to pull water from...If oil was the problem, then I would understand, but water?

O and if you wanna check if the place you pulled water from is sufficient, just connect the supply to the turbo and disconnect the drain. Turn on the car and check for water, you should be able to make a decision if there is sufficient water.

Last edited by MARTIN; Jul 16, 2005 at 02:22 AM.
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