Running stock turbo dry (no coolant) and using a turbo timer, good/bad/insane?
 

Going to be putting the engine back together here soon, but since my housings were kinda toast I'll be using FD housings.

The FD housings don't have the coolant feed, so I'm either stuck running the turbo dry (is anyone doing that?) or I need to find a new place to pull coolant from.


If I need to re-route coolant from somewhere else, can I use the feed that's on top of the engine, and then just block off where it goes into the back of the water pump? (the coolant line highlighted in the attached picture). When I got the car, that line was very ghetto (as you can see), so I think it was probably the line that used to feed the accelerated warm-up, right?

Anyway, any input would be great.

Nobody has any ideas/experiences with this?

higher rpms == more heat

turbo at 50,000 RPMs == more heat

more heat + no coolant == bad

Dude, if you got the turbo that you can risk it with .... I would say go for it!

I am going to guess ANY answer you get here is based on zero experience.

So, if you can risk it...I say go for it and see what happens....

James

even im wondering what would happen how about you take some pics to ;D
TwEaK

turbo spins more than 50k rpm

many MANY other turbo that spins higher have no coolant

shut up!

most turbo that have coolant and a oil option need both for cooling..
use it or the turbo will have a short life

It's simple to prove, look at the 1984 Nissan 300ZX Turbo.

Original turbos had no additional cooling. It generated so many complaints and had such high failure that for 1985 model year the turbo was revised to include cooling.

Wow, such useful answers. :rolleyes:

Some have run the stock turbo without a water feed, and it seems to work fine. However, it is VERY EASY to provide water for the turbo, so there's no reason not to.

Easiest thing would be to drill the FD housing for the water hole. I might be mistaken, but I think the fitting is already there, but not drilled?

Failing that, you can get water from the feed on the top of the rear iron, and return it to the nipple on the water pump housing.

You'd most likely be able to get away with it, however I'd take the time as Aaron has said and tap into a coolant source.

Yea thats how i have my turboed n/a setup with the coolant.

I understand that the turbo doesn't spin at 50k RPM, it was just a number I pulled out of my ass.

But thanks for the thought.

Also, I think you need to move some s's around in that sentence for it to make any sense.

run a seperate coolent line. just get an inline pump, and have a resovour, and a heat exchanger. simple a that no fuss no muss.

I would think tht the turbo'd cooling abilities woulc be cut in half.

On all oil turbo's the entire cartidge is used for cooling.

Now cut that space in half and leave it void instead of running coolant through it.

Honestly find a way to get the coolant in there.

Dont worry about him. He's just a sad little man that enjoys nothing more than pissing people off and cursing all over the forum.

I wouldn't have a problem just drilling the FD housing, the problem is trying to drill a lip for the o-ring to sit in.

What is how you have it? Using the line I had in the pic I posted or what?

Why not just drill out the rear housing? Thats what you do when you have to use a NA housing on a turbo housing.

Like I said I'm OK doing that, the problem is machining out a groove for the o-ring to sit in.

Yeah, I'd find an alternate source. Your idea that is posted in the picture looks alright, I see a feed line, but where is the drain line underneath the turbo?
Finally, for NA turbo conversions, most guys use the coolant lines that run from the TB to the BAC valve and back to the water pump housing. If you don't use the BAC or the TB warmup system, using this would be ideal.
The reason that mazda, like a few people have mentioned already, included a water cooled turbo was so that customers did not need to buy or worry about turbo timing. It also GREATLY increases the turbos bearing life. You can run it without water cooling, but like aaron said, there really isn't any reason why NOT to.

good luck.

I had a buddy at the machine shop do it for $20. Shouldnt be that hard to have done.

Don't use an o-ring. Drill it and tap it for a hose barb and connect the hose to that. :)

LOL.

Seems like you have no idea what we are talking about....

id say, if its designed to have water and oil cooling stock, it must have it for a reason!,

so id find a way to add water line to it.

yeah great idea.

EXCEPT THERES AN INTAKE MANIFOLD SITTING ONTOP OF IT.

Why cant you just use the one on the rear platE? and the drain just plug it up to the WP housing... I mean come on its not that difficult.... theres no complication... plenty of places to pull water from...If oil was the problem, then I would understand, but water?

O and if you wanna check if the place you pulled water from is sufficient, just connect the supply to the turbo and disconnect the drain. Turn on the car and check for water, you should be able to make a decision if there is sufficient water.