beachFC

iTrader: (13)

First off, I know there's an RTEK section. It's a barren wasteland.

Second, my set-up:

Jspec S5 Tii block
Walbro 255
550/750 (Possibly 800cc sec.) injectors
Rebuilt with all OEM stuff + FD corners + RA classics/race springs.
LARGE streetport, or "Raceport".. (Seriously, this port is really big. The last engine I seen with this port, was slightly loping like a bridge)
2.5" downpipe to 2.5" straight through exhaust
Stock turbo/TMIC (FOR NOW )

EDIT: Also forgot, I am going to run 10psi MAX.


I skimmed through the PDF that pocketlogger.com provides. It seems easy enough..

SEEMS.


I do have realistic goals however, which should be refreshing to most of you on this board I plan to push around ~230-250whp.. Now what I'm worried about is FUEL control


1: What I'm wanting to know is, will I be able to leave the stock timing intact while only adjusting fuel?

2: How hard is adjusting the fuel map using a few street pull datalogs?

3: Should I just b*tch out and get an RTEK 1.7 + Air fuel piggyback? (My ONLY problem with this is, I will be spending the same amount as the RTEK 2.1, but not have nearly as much tuning capacity)

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

1. yes. i would probably pull a couple/few degrees of timing at high loads too, the stock timing map is pretty aggressive.

2. WOT is generally the easiest, you can watch the o2 sensor, and go WOT, if/when it starts to get lean, remove foot from accelerator, richen the map, and try again. generally, richer = safer, so @wot, you'd wanna be somewhere in the 10.8-11.5:1 range. or if you have no WB, start fully rich, and then lean it out until it runs. as you pick up experience you might choose a different AFR, but until then keeping the engine together is #1.

3. i don't see why you'd get a 1.7, when the 2 is the same money, but i'm also comfortable tuning (actually the 1.7 scares me more, as its not tunable), but its your car, and your comfort in tuning.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

1st off, I appreciate the input

Also, I should have probably clarified that I'm not ENTIRELY retarded hahaha

I will be running a PLX WB, to read/log AFR's..

I really plan to hit 11.5 max at any rpm/load, ever.

I'm wanting to know how to fuel correction compares with, say, as SAFCii? as in, basically the same process, or two different worlds?

EDIT: to your #1, I am really uncomfortable with messing with timing maps. To be honest, that's due to my lack of knowledge on exactly how it effects things. And REALLY REALLY don't want to accidentally SH*T on my engine while simply trying to pull a few degrees

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol, different comfort level!

the fuel correction is basically the same as the SAFC, but there are more points. for example with the older SAFC's you have 5 *****, and each **** effects that RPM at every load, then they went to the blue screen one, and you had 5 rpm points, and a hi and low load.

the Rtek, has more Rpm points (20?) and more load points (20?).

so really the Rtek is harder because you have 20x20 = 400 points instead of 5x2 = 10. although if you are just tuning WOT, you are only tuning ~20 spots.

you're not wanting to mess with timing is actually good. starting with factory stock is just about always the best way.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

This is what bothers me

I am going to run this ECU, which is basically stock(unless you adjust it yourself) on a majorly street ported motor.

If I only tune for WOT(Which I use 0.00000001% of the time), wouldn't that cause me to run lean in the mid-range, at say, 85% throttle?(which I typically use during spirited driving)


It would really suck to have 11.5 afr's at WOT, and then 14 during a partial throttle pull

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

The RTEK forum maybe a ghost town, but there's lots of good info..

Timing Maps
https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-1...ght=timing+map

Tuning and crap
https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-1...ethods-827389/

IMO, you'll be fine with what you have, people have made just north of 400RWHP on RTEK 2.1
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-d...-s360-1018017/

Don't be too scared, just stay on the rich side, and start logging/tuning in 2nd before jumping to 3rd gear pulls..

Good luck and Feel free to post in the RTEK Tuning Thread, Vids too!

Ninja Edit: Just do 1/2 or 3/4 throttle pulls and tune those areas, logging the Boost index and RPM will help with knowing which cells will change the AFR you need to adjust.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

Ahh man, I've literally spent about a week in that damned section. Definitely learned a good bit of info, but never find anything too useful.. At least not the answers I was looking for.

An ideal situation for me right now would be

1: Buy RTEK 2.1
2: Receive magical 250whp tune for free
3: Drive car

This is how I see it going

1: Buy RTEK 2.1
2: Stress the f*ck out, and pull out all my hair
3: Don't drive car

hahaha

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its simple, you richen up the 85% cells... in fact just to be proactive, you might just add fuel to everything over ~5psi, or whatever the load unit is.

in reality, with a stock fuel system and turbo and stuff the stock map should be pretty close

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The hardest part of tuning with the RTek is the Palm! Not just using the Palm, but finding a good one and a compatible cable to go with it.

The second hardest part is sitting in the passenger seat with the Palm and a laptop for the WB so you can read the AFR across the pull. Even with a netbook is seems cramped.

It's tedious - just accept it. If you're concerned about blowing it up take your time. And find someone to drive who is patient and anally retentive with their throttle control.

Good luck.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

j93fd3s is right about fattening up the fuel map.

Then use the logging feature. drive and log. review. adjust. and repeat.

But if you want a magical tune. Guess you're going to have to learn magic.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

It may be scattered around, but I've posted a lot in that section.

The Rtek 2.1 isn't that complicated. I know any kind of tuning seems complicated for a beginner, but believe me there isn't a whole lot to it. It's a tuneable stock ECU, but it's a lot simpler than say an Evo or WRX or a GM product. Tuning an SAFC is simpler than an Rtek but in some ways more complicated. It modifies the airflow meter signal to the ECU. The result is unpredictable changes to your spark timing for one thing, and the fuel can get tricky once the injectors are larger. It's great for an n/a car though.

Remember that the Rtek is a programmable stock ECU. It already calculates fuel based on airflow meter voltage and engine speed, just like the stock ECU. For fuel you will be modifying a correction map. You're taking the calculation from the computer and tweaking it. The injector size preset feature does some of that work for you already.

As for spark timing, you have the factory airflow based tables or the boost based tables. The airflow based timing tables are not the best solution for most people, especially if you've never tuned airflow-based timing maps before on a non Rx-7. I've already posted a ton of spark timing example maps that many people have used successfully.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

I plan on using your timing maps..

Should I punch them in, an them start getting some pulls/logs going??

Also, for anyone have a excel sheet of there modified fuel map? I can only find timing.. not going to use it, just want to see what it looks like