I'm expecting a set of SS braided oil cooler lines (Mazdatrix) in the mail at some time between today and tomorrow. Obviously I will be replacing the stock lines, which held up for around 150,000 miles.

Does anyone who has done this job before recommend anything? Any tips or anything? I read a write-up on here about removing a ton of **** just to replace the lines...I don't really think it's necessary. I've been under the car and checked everything out, but If anyone who has tackled this job before has any tips or anything, I would definitely take them into consideration.

Thanks in advance,
James

 

No real trick other then to follow the torque specifications. Remember to not overtorque the front cover fitting as you can crack the cover.

Removal of the front cover fitting is sometimes a major pain. You need a thin wrench to grip the fitting on the conver, and then another to grab the fitting on the line. I have often used an adjustable wrench on the cover fitting, supporting it from below with a jack stand and length of wood. Really helps if you remove the fan and shroud.

Edit...Make sure to use crush washers, and if installing adapters for AN lines, teflon sealing compound on the threads.

 

"Edit...Make sure to use crush washers, and if installing adapters for AN lines, teflon sealing compound on the threads."

Clarification: Teflon on the NPT threads of the adaptor only

 

I won't be using any AN fittings.

So basically just throw some crush washers between the banjo bolts, torque to specs and call it a day? I looked in the FSM found online (link from Cochran site or something off here) and I didn't see any torque specs for the lines themselves. I was looking in the lubrication section.

Thanks,
James

 

the lines should come with 6 crush washers...

 

You mean metric.

Basically, yep.

I think the torque specs are in the engine section? At least in the Haynes manual they are.

 

I checked the engine section, as well...no dice. If anyone knows off the top of their head the torque specs for the Oil cooler lines, please let me know.
If no one does I will probably just tighten them hand tight, then another half turn or so. Run it, for a few minutes, drive it to redline a few times, then check again.

Thank you,
James

 

What I found works best is to snug up the fittings and banjo bolts, start the engine, and gently tighten until the leaks stop. Once the leaks have stopped, idle the engine until it is warm and check again. After that, rev the engine to increase the oil presuure and check again. Extra rags and a can of brake clean come in real handy.

 

Thanks trochoid, I'll give that a shot.

James

 

The torque specs for everything in the car can be found in the specifications section (its like the last section).