I'm in the middle of my 5 lug conversion, and the only thing I have left to remove is the nut which holds the rear hub on to the axle? then I can put on the rear hubs!! (I hope)

anyway, the nut was sticking really bad, so I decided I needed to get the proper sized socket, but I don't know what size it is?

does anyone know what size this nut is? and/or have any tips on removing it?

thanks for any help

 

oops, forgot to post pic.

 

32mm

 

Prefered method of removal is a good impact wrench, after you unstake the nut. Secondary method is to use a three quarter breakover bar combined with a three foot or longer cheater bar. Least attractive method is a Dremel motor with a cutoff wheel to cut into the nut and using a chisel and hammer to remove the remains.

 

I just finished my 5 lug conversion last week and I hated the part you were on, so many headaches The axle nut is a 32mm nut and is torqued anywhere from 180-220lbs/ft torque from the factory and by now it may be closer to 300. We broke a ratchet and a 24inch breaker bar trying to remove it. Find a good breaker bar. Make sure you get a Craftsman breaker bar (I used 18inch on the succesful attempt) and use the handle off your jack as a cheater bar. Dont sit the bar too far back or you risk breaking the breaker bar. I had to stand on it and slowly "bounce" off of it. Good luck punching the axle out of the bearing carrier next. PM if you need anymore info. Have Fun

 

thanks for the help. I bought the 32mm, and I'm about to go try to get that nut off. hopefully my impact gun will work

 

I broke this loose with a craftsman 1/2'' ratchet and socket and a hammer. Broke 2 sockets then got a hardened one, which worked. I'm a carpenter so hammer is my favorite tool. LOL ! You need to be pretty good with a hammer to do this, and make sure you use lifetime guarantee sockets and ratchets so you can replace them if they break.

If you have access to an impact wrench I would reccomend that route.

 

what should the nut be torqued to after you put everything back together?

 

FSM states the nut should be torqued to 174-231 ft-lbs of torque.
Less than that risks stripping the splines off the axle when lots of engine torque is applied.

 

I finally got it (them) off!!!

unfortunatly, my impact gun is too crappy, so I used a big ratchet(actually not too big) and a big jack handle (about 4 feet) as a cheater bar. I still had to stand(and bounce) on the handle to get it to finally break free(keep in mind that I'm only 16yrs old, weighing 130 lbs.)

at first when I stood on it, the whole suspension went up, and bent the bar I was using to keep the hub from turning . finally I found an old airplane gear which I was able to postition correctly to keep the suspension from moving, and the hub from spinning .

it felt soo good when it finally broke free


now I need to know what to use to pull the hub off the axle shaft? I was thinking one of those puller things, like a steering wheel puller, but stronger??

anyone know where I can get one?

 

dead blow hammer

 

ahhh man! looks like ill have to get the big impact when i take this off to do my bearings and tow elminanators...
reminds me of this VW bug i was working on this one time, damn rear cassle nuts had huge torqe on them, so tight that i broke my cheater bar.

 

whats a dead blow hammar?

 

Must I do everything?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/AP-3DBH.html

or

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...search?cat=web

 

haha you've moved on to the next crappy stage of the process. After this though, it should be fairly smooth sailing. To punch the axle off the bearing carrier use a pretty big hammer and try to hit the axle dead on. It'll take some serious force. If you feel uncomfterable hitting the axle you can always use a wood block between them. One axle came out no problem but the other took about 10 mins of hammering to get loose. Try soaking it in WD40 also.