Getting ready to swap the front main pulley for a smaller one, and I seem to remember a special procedure to follow when taking this off (the big nut in the center of the pulley). I've been searching all over, but I guess I just haven't typed in the correct term.

I seem to remember wedging the clutch peddle all the way down to keep tension on the eccentric shaft, is this correct?

Thanks!

 

You don't need to remove the pulley hub to remove the pulley.
Undo the four 6mm bolts, leave the large center bolt alone.

 

First you will need to break the bolt, as it is torqued on around 85 lb/ft. You can do it by hand with a 2ft cheater bar and the car in gear + e-brake on. After you break it, you are correct, wedge the pedal all the way to the floor anyway you can, and make sure it stays there. Once in place you can pop the pulley off and swap it easily. What a coincidence... I JUST did this 1.5 hours ago

 

Sweet, thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for!

 

+1

I would put the car in 5th gear, and really crank on the e-brake. I was lucky enough to have someone who didn't mind standing on the clutch pedal for a few minutes while I swapped the pulley, so I had them step on the brake too while I tightened it back on. To get it off I used an impact, since I wanted to be sure the clutch was pushed in before I loosened the bolt.

RB recommends tightening the bolt a little over spec, to 100-110 ftlb IIRC. I remember the value and reason long enough to do the project, and have summarily forgot, so you might wanna look that up.

 

I guess maybe I should do the thermo pellet bypass at the same time?

 

I don't understand why you guys are removing the hub bolt to remove the pulley, it's completely unnecessary.
What a coincidence...I removed my pulleys earlier this summer to repaint them and didn't have to mess with the hub nut at all.

Edit: From the FSM...


Shows pretty clearly how the sheaves fit on the hub and that the hub bolt isn't involved.

 

Perhaps it is an under drive.... which requires the HUB + pulley to come off.

What a coincidence... I was putting on the aftermarket racing beat under drive pulley because I was wary of my stock pulley timing marks and was looking for peace of mind.

 

can I ask why you're installing an aftermarket crank pulley? Is this for the track car you have listed in your sig?

 

Correct. Shifting @ 7000rpms yields a drop to below 5000rpms. Shifting at 7500rpms is over 5000rpms and the car doesn't fall on its face. But, shifting at 7500 for 1/2 of a session results in the temperature getting above 220 degrees, so I have to back off.

 

I pulled the 4 bolts out...what did you do to separate the pulleys from the shaft?

 

Use the big purse.

Seriously though, just hit it - there's nothing keeping them on except for (probably, if you're having trouble) rust.

 

Yeah...I gave it some "persuasion" and it popped right off...just wasn't sure if anything else was connecting it and didn't want to damage it...thanks for replying!!! Mike

 

Does any one know what size the 4, 6mm bolts for the pulleys are? Just bought a FC was driving it and the pulleys fell of and rolled half a mile lol. All 4 bolts vanished lol.

 

I believe they are M6x1.00 x 15mm flange bolt of class 10.9.

 

Thanks I’ll try them!