rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

i have a 88 tII
i removed the a/c, p/s, air pump, egr, avc, bac, subzero start valve, thermowax, throttel body mod, and air supply valve.

now when i start her up she jumps up to 4,000 rpm and just sits there for a min or two then drops down and pulses from 2,500 and 3,500.

i have searched and had no luck finding the info i need

any ideas as to what could be the problem?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Well you screwed yourself doing the TB mod and BAC removal, it will make cold start annoying for you. The pulsing is a sign of a vacuum leak, and the high idle is a sign of a bad vacuum leak.

Did you use new intake gaskets? Did you use RTV on the blockoff plates? Did you cap off all the vacuum ports? Look over those things, it is common to miss those when putting everything back toghether.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

i took the umi off and it does look like it did not seal. so going to get a new gasket and try some rtv on it also. also checked all vacuum ports and all unused ports are capped, but saw 2 lines that didnt seem to fit as tight as the should.
hopefully that will take care of it

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

adjust tps and you should be good to go
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the link, will try adjusting it before i try starting it tomorrow

datz

the engine must be fully warm to adjust it.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

ok, so it is better than before.
it still jumps up to 3,000 for a min then drops back down. ( which i dont get because i removed the sold start and thermowax, so why is it still doing this?

when it drops it surges between 1,000 and 1,500 once it gets wormed up, just dies when cold.
i pulled a vacuum line off and it runs the same with or without so i guess i have a vacuum leek?

is there an easy way to tell were the leek is?

i put a vac gauge on and it is pulling 4-6 (surging idle). if i remeber right it should have 15 at idle correct?

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Depends on the condition of the engine, if your stock port I would imagine closer to 20 on a healthy engine. On my 6 port I did an emissions delete but left the bacv(pulled 6 port sleeves) and still pulls 16-17 vac at idle. If you're at 4-6 now you got a bad leak.

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

Almost guaranteed to be a vacuum leak. The ECU cuts fuel at ~1500rpm at idle, so it revs up and down continuously.

Only way to check for vacuum leaks in this condition is to physically check everything. Ordinarily I use an UNLIT propane torch and move it around. The engine will smooth out when you find the leak. This doesn't work when the engine is constantly reving though.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

that explanes that! i tried the propane torch and found nothing, now i know why.
guess i dont have much choice but replace all the vacuum lines and keep my fingers crossed.

does anyone know what these cap/valves on the solenoid rack are? there are 4 or 5 of them and are where a vacuum line would be but i have them instead. do they go bad? if so can i just cap them or do i need new ones? just thinking that maybe they could be leaking

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

also, i was wandering about the solenoid rack. do i need any of them?
i removed the a/c, ps, airpump and all the emissions. and i noticed that they talked a bout deleting it also but i decided not to worry with it. but if i dont need them then i would have less vac lines to worry about. or if there is one that i no longer need? just thinking

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

I'm not 100% what all of the differences are between the S4 and S5 models but here is a diagram that I made while doing my emissions removal. I do have a manual boost controller between the wastegate and the nipple on the turbo.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

were should the twin scroll actuator vacuum go to?
i don't think mine is in the stock location, doesn't look like something mazda would have done and i have found a couple things that had been blocked off already so somebody did something before me.
looks like it should end up at the turbo solenoid, but were does it go to get there? or if there is a better way of doing it?

wmtil

I did the full emissions removal on my NA which included removing the entire rack.
Here is the link to the instructions i followed. they are for an NA removal but they may help if you have questions.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

He has a tii, not quite the same deal.

rusty FC

iTrader: (7)

so i found my vacuum leak. i discovered one of the oil metering injectors is leaking air from around the top seal. so its not the line but the injector itself.
i think i understand how they work but was not sure if it was the vacuum that injects the oil or is it the air passing through the inj that delivers the oil? does anyone know? i have an idea of how to seal it back up but wanted to see what everyone's thoughts are