**** run and gun the bastard.
The redline horn just tells you when to shift.
Lates Matt22

 

persid are you a moron? im tryin to say if i had a track next to me id be happy to go out all day and race...but guess what its not that easy, i dont have a track, thats why all the people in the area go to the same spot to race, there is no "extra excuses for loosing " we race to have fun and drive and show off our cars, if you have a problem with that you might wanna take the dick out of you *** b/c your ganna have to deal with it..its ganna happen and it will always happen. How is it any safer or more dangerous on a track than 200 yeards of acceleration?

 

Exactly. Rev it up as high as you want in first, just don't jam the tranny as hard as you can. The extra .1 or .2 secs will make no difference to your accel, and you'll go a bit faster than shifting at 4500.
I rev all my rx7's up to redline in first, and chirp second (and third), and my tranny's are fine. Both had over 120,000 miles on em, and I shifted good and quick, I just didn't slam the tranny.
Beat anything as hard as you can, it'll break. Think of it like petting a dog... if you are firm, the dog likes it. But if you beat the **** out of the dog....
Sean Cathcart

 

If you think kids crashing and dying is a myth, you need to have a look outside your own little world. It's very, very real.

Your friend is one lucky bastard. He should be in a wooden box.

My cousin was hit by someone doing 80km/h when she was stationary. It took her 12 months to learn to walk again.

 

The optimal shift point for acceleration is not at the HP peak, it is at redline or the point at which your "drive power in gear" curves cross for the two gears you are shifting between (whichever occurs first). You drive power in gear can be calculated from your engine torque at each RPM and the gear ratio (including final drive, but you can ignore that if you are just looking for shift points).

CarTest reports these shift points as optimal, but they are based on the torque curves that it has guessed based on peak HP and torque (including what RPM they occur at), so it might not be that accurate:

1st 7000 RPM, this one is clear because the diff in ratios is relatively large and redline arrives first
2nd 7000 RPM, the drive power curves almost meet but not quite by redline
3rd 6900 RPM, the curves cross at 6900 RPM
4th 6810 RPM, the curves cross at 6810 RPM

-Max

 

My car used to be an automatic so my buzzer goes off at 7000rpms; it works great for a shift buzzer.

 

I'm starting to get annoyed by people that come into various posts and start whining about 'street racing'. As someone else said earlier, go somewhere else and write your own post about it, people that care will check it out.

 

rotaries are the ****, hell yeah you can redline. if your tach says 6000 rpm then the rotors are just doing 2000 rpm, sweet huh!! hell **** yeah! the rotors only spin 1/3 of what the tach says.

now for racing i think between 6000-6500rpm would be sufficient.

 

Uh no, when the tach says 6000 RPM, they are turning 6000 RPM! Its the eccentric shaft that travels at 1/3, not the rotors...

 

Well, since RPMs is based off of E-Shaft speed, then wouldn't the rotors be turning at 18,000 RPM? Something doesn't add up here...

 

I typed it backwards again. The rotors still are turning 6 grand when it says 6 grand, it gets its signal off the ignition...

 

Uh, Grimlock is right.&nbsp E-shaft RPM is the engine RPM, and that's what the tach shows.&nbsp Rotors turn at 1/3rd e-shaft RPM, so 6,000 RPM indicated is only 2,000 RPM for the rotors...



-Ted

 

At 7500 rpms the rotors are spinning at 2500 rpms which means the damn things make 41.5 ROTATIONS IN ONE SECOND!!!! That just bogles my mind...

 

for having my back there dude, some people are quick to talk what they really dont know.

mr. wankel where do you get your info from or you where when you posted, lol

18,000 rpms