**** I wish I got that kind of mileage! My car gets around 13-15mpg as is in town driving. But its all worth it if you ask me.

If your just happy with a 13 second 1/4 time area and stay cheap you don't need a ton done. 3" exhaust, intake, RB FCD, Walbro Pump, SAFC2, ported wastegate to keep boost down around 10psi, maybe get the 650cc secondary injectors, or 720, light flywheel, better clutch. That will get you into the 13's with good driving. Not totally cheap cheap, but it'll get you there without modding your car to **** so that it starts having problems and braking or anything. Then you could get an upgraded Rad and e-fan for reliability. Would have yourself a quick car thats fun as hell.

later
-Justin

PS. I've got that same Turbo mod that someone was talking about, bigger compressor wheel on the stock turbo. It's definatly a nice way to go for a turbo upgrade. You still get the really fast boosting of the stock turbo with WAY more induction though, definatly a nice power gain and keeps your engine bay lookin stock.

 

it's all in the tunning! you just gotta drive it more at cruising speeds and get her tunned for some good millage!

 

Me drive at cruising speeds. HA! Nevah, boost is your friend, I say use it for everything!

 

Hey, I have a a 10th AE that I am rebuilding, So if you want to know what I did then you can shoot me a PM. I have not kept the cheap part, but I have covered the reliable, and fast past. I have alot done so you can pick and choose, Trying to keep in on the DL so shoot me a pm if you want to know more.

caruccio

 

If you wanted to stay with the stock ECU....

Exhaust (2.5 or 3inch):
- DP = <$200
- Magnaflow 3inch muffler = ~$75 each
- Muffler shop labor = ~$2-300
- Ported WG = $0 - ?

Intake:
- TID mod = ~$10
- Cone filter = ~$20

Fuel:
- FCD = ~$75-100
- Walbro = ~$110
- 4 x 680cc = ~$200
- SAFC = ~$300 new

I would also get rid of the emissions equipment (bare block) so you have less vacuum lines to worry about.

I'd think with this setup, and boost creep under 12lbs, it could be really reliable. If your boost crept higher, a ported wastegate, stock S5 turbine housing and turbo manifold is pretty much all you need to stay under 12lbs boost.

These mods should put you in the 230-250rwhp range, which should get you to 13.5's with a good launch. If you needed more power, you could go with an upgraded S5 turbo. Then sell your 680 secondaries, and upgrade to 720cc or slightly larger secondaries and keep the 680 primaries.

If you are able to tune on a dyno properly with all the right equipment, I'd suspect that anything near 300rwhp is possible with the upgraded turbo and SAFC controlling fuel. This would really be pushing the limits of the stock top mount intercooler though.

 

Infini IV, where are you getting your injector prices from? I can't find any injectors 680 or higher that I could get for $50 each!

 

Than get 4 1600s. That would be $300.

 

uhhh...check my sig. If I had drag radials that's a low 13 second run. mid 13's aren't hard on the stock turbo.

 

You can usually find (2) used GSL-SE 680cc's for $100.

 

Bullshit.

Here's a break-down of a car I built:
$600 for S5 N/A, blown front rotor
$700 for S5 Jspec engine
rebuild engine doing a secondary bridgeport: $800
with s5 rotors: $200
TII drivetrain: $750
ACT clutch: $350
Walboro fuel pump and rewire: $125
200 hp direct shot nitrous and accessories: $1000
Intake filter and custom piping (to driver's side of car): $40
Custom home-built exhaust: $300
Emissions block-off: $40

Running stock S5 N/A ECU and accessories...
Sold:
N/A drivetrain: $400
S5 TII rotor: $125
Blown N/A shortblock: $200
S5 Turbo and manifold: $300
Stock intercooler, ACV, etc etc.

Total cost for entire car: under $3000

That's not cheap? Because its definitely fast and as reliable as any other N/A car.
Sometimes you guys need to think outside the box.

 

wow scathcart, I wish I had that kinda luck.. I've got well over $3k into my car allready..

 

Not all of us have that kind of hook up. And even 3k dollars to some people is a lot of money. Maybe not to you or me but 3k doesn't just drop into your lap ya know.

I'm looking at 8G's at least to get what I personally want. But that isn't on a budget or using used parts unless I have to. I don't mind spending extra cash for the good stuff.

Also I wouldn't personally run a bridgy on my stock ECU nor could I build an engine for 800 bucks with a port too. It would be 900 for a rebuild kit and another 100-300 bucks for a port from someone that does it for a living.


If its BS for you then thats kool your more experienced than me. But I have made my list. And it ain't cheap!

 

Plain and simple then... don't make the claim that reliability and power comes at great expense. I am aware that very few people will go this route, or have the abilities to do this level of work themselves, but to say it is impossible is a straight out lie.