Anyone know of someone out that re-builds ECU's? Not looking for any mods, just a repair or rebuild on one. It's almos impossible to find one, so I'm thinking about just trying to get mine repaired.

 

Which ecu code?

N350, n326 etc...?

Actually quite easy to find. You can just about buy any ecu on here, and eBay..

Hell, I may even have one

 

N370, Not quite so easy to find.

 

Get the N374 JDM ECU and have Rtek chip it, they can make it work. It might be easier than hunting down a real N370 or trusting somebody to rebuild a fried one.

Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information

 

There's some n370's for sale in the classified section right now

 

I thought there were known issues with running an N374 ECU on a stock USDM car? How will re-chipping the ECU fix that. I thought the chip was primarily for fuel mapping?

 

I can get you an N370 for like 30 bucks if you want one. I don't know of anybody who does repairs.

 

^ I have never seen an N370 for that much. I'd buy a few and save them if that were the case.

 

Haha, way to throw someone under the bus.



Anyway, let me know if you need one, good luck with finding someone to repair them/finding a good used one.

 

What's wrong with the original ECU?

A bad power supply section or output switching transistor should be easy to fix. A dead memory chip would be far more complicated.

Regards,

Rob

 

You and I have a different meaning for that saying. If pointing out misinformation is throwing someone under the bus, then I guess I'm guilty?

If you actually have a working N370 ecu for $30 let me know.

 

The problem with the ECU is a 30 code (split air valve) that won't go away. I had a spare, but when I plug it in, the engine light comes on, goes off and then goes on to stay. No code, just a constant light. The split air valve has been checked and it functions the way it's supposed to when you put the car in 5th gear. I took my spare apart and it's got some mystery EPROM in a socket, so it was chipped by someone and no idea what the chip is so even if it did make the code go away, not sure if I would be comfortable using it.
Read a lot of posts about How many problem folks had when they tried to use an N374, but it seems that most of those were involving turbo swaps and using the NA harness. I have a stock T2 with stock Harness and I didn't see to many posts describing the same no secondary's firing issues that were present in a swap. For every post I saw with someone who had a problem, there was another post where someone didn't, so it's hard to tell except to just get one and try it.
I know that there could be an issue of pin out discrepancies with USDM AWS and JDM Speed limit circuitry. I have done a magnifying glass visual inspection of the boards in Both ECU's and can't find any visible damage or burned out components.
DGUY,send me a picture of that ECU and we'll talk

 

Okay, did some more trouble shooting on the ECU from the car for the code 30. Opened up the ECU and found an over heated and burned component. It's the blue one in the picture. I put my spare ECU in and turned the key on and the Split air valve clicks like it's supposed to and the voltage changes from 12 to less than 2 when you shift the car into 5th. The problem is the ENGINE light stays on with the second ECU so I don't know if it's developing other codes. I pulled the second ECU apart and it has been rechipped with heaven knows what chipset. I've provided a picture of that one as well. I think what I'm going to do is replace the burned component out with the one from the second ECU that's good and then send the second one out to get the Stage 1.5 rechip from pocket logger and then I should have a good one in the car and a second rechipped spare. Not sure if it will fix the not wanting to idle below 1000 rpm or not. I know that when you put the car in reverse or in 5th gear the plunger on the solenoid extends when the voltage is removed and sends air down to the cat and wherever else it goes. The question is where does the air normally go when the plunger is retracted in all conditions except 5th and reverse.

 

I'm re-reading your comment, I misunderstood you saying $30 was too expensive, I guess you mean its fair? Apologies if I jumped to a conclusion, I'll check my 'ecu box' I have in storage from my FC days and I'll confirm if I have a few still.

 

I'm gonna need one too brother my OMP took a ****.on my 90 Turbo 2