beachFC

iTrader: (13)

So like the title says. I'm dying of wheel hop.

Replaced my forward diff mount with another better condition used diff mount, and welded a .25" reinforcement plate thing into it to support the rubber(which wasn't 100%)

Added PBM solid sub frame mounts, and rear diff mounts.

Also added a pinion snubber, and preloaded it against the diff to where it's always making contact, and quite tight as well.

Oh yeah, and I also threw in poly transmission mounts, and a solid center mount.

And the result... still getting this annoying f*cking wheel hop. Doesn't hop when sliding. It will only hop when dumping the clutch from a dig. Even in the wet.

What else should I be doing to cure this?! </3

Tires are 215/40-17's. Hopped at both 36 psi, and 48 psi.
Suspension: PBM coilovers 10kg front 8kg rear.
Tanabe rear sway bar.

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

I have experienced wheel hop in the wet as well. First gear hops, but say if I drop it in 2nd instead of first it will be smooth.
Confused as well.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Use a softer tire.

When I had an LS1 I had success with Mickey Thompsons or to a lesser extent, Nitto 555R (note the R) or BFG DR's.

I also had to replace my struts with Kyb adjustables, which I see you're already covered on.

Try dropping it to 30 PSI, and play with it.

With Mickey's or BFG's, I was doing a 1.8 with 400ish HP. Good for 11.70's at 120.

I hope that helps, it's mostly in the tires my friend.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Still have DTSS?

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

Not me

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

Nope

Mr.JTurboII

less air pressure would give you more traction, not more. and this is just a thought, theres a suspension rod that connects from the upper chassis to the rear subframe, i believe it has something to do with the diff and its angle, maybe yours is worn? i have an adjustable one so im not sure if the factory one had bushings or not

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

You need more traction. The crap tires and overly stuff coilovers are not helping.
Also your rear LCA bushings should be replaced. The old bushings could be worn out.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

Bump!

Still having horrible issues. Can't even do a burnout. Tried my dampers on hard, and soft, and in the middle.

Last night I dropped the car at 6k in first, hopped VIOLENTLY for about 5 seconds, and then sorta smoothed out, but still continued to jolt and bounce the car up and down.

This happens on one side of the car at a time. Meaning when one wheel hops, the other is fine. But it will happen on both sides of the car.


This is SO frustrating, and I just can NOT figure it out.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Have you checked your toe links for slop, or really everything on the rear suspension?

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

Solid front and rear sub frame, modified front diff mount(solid)

No slop in links.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Get better tires yet?

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

Does it on all tires man

DaBrkddy

It's the nature of the beast with the suspension design of these cars. How old are your dampers/shocks? Eliminate DTSS. Set dampers for the highest resistance. Add a little toe in. Get softer springs with better or stiffer shocks. If all else fails, preload the suspension with ratchet straps or chains. (an old trick my uncle taught me)

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

I had bad wheel hop until I went to the AWR spherical trailing arm bearings(and battle version toe arms for adjustment). I guess the old rubber in the trailing arm was shot and just compressing and unloading.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I suggested that 6 months ago.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

I have the poly trailing arm bushings.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Are you running PBM camber links, adjustable camber links or an adjustable subframe link?

If so you can't run poly control arm bushings when running non stock camber components, it will bind the suspension.

Guess what happens when the suspension binds... Wheelhop!

Get spherical real control arm bearings.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, go stock bushings or spherical on the trailing arms at this point. try a set of stock width wheels/tires for giggles instead of flushing that pig for giggles as well to just do some science. but PBM everything out back and poly bushings is a nono.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

I have a Mazdatrix camber link, PBM diff risers, and PBM sub frame bushings

So no on the poly trailing arm bushings?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Yea get that crap out of there

mdq-fc3s

how does having poly bushing for the rear arm paired with camber links cause suspension to bind?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Poly bushings like to move on one axis. when you use camber links you are forcing the bushing to move in 2 directions at once. That is why you need to run OEM rubber that is soft enough not to bind or spherical bearings that move freely in any direction.

mdq-fc3s

if I were to install poly-bushing for the rear arms and still want camber adjustment, the links would have to be a hemi-joint to prevent suspension bind or there is no way around it?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

No if you want camber adjustment install spherical bearings in the trailing arms, or leave them stock rubber. Do not use poly or Delrin.