rebuild
#1
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i have an 87 tII and i just did a compression test and its time for a rebuild. I am lookin for the cheapest way to get the parts need for a rebuild. have been searching and found the atkins kit, are there any cheaper kits around?]
thanks....
thanks....
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (11)
yeah that is true ^^.
take it apart first and spec all the hard seals and springs..
you for sure need oil control rings and water seals but the hard oil rings and all the seals and springs might be reusable. also.. i found out that i dont like the solid corner seals. i went back to the oem side seals that need the new rubber grommet put in them. im told it helps with idle and i agree now that i have tried it
take it apart first and spec all the hard seals and springs..
you for sure need oil control rings and water seals but the hard oil rings and all the seals and springs might be reusable. also.. i found out that i dont like the solid corner seals. i went back to the oem side seals that need the new rubber grommet put in them. im told it helps with idle and i agree now that i have tried it
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i was wanting to go ahead and replace it all and was wonder about how much it would cost for all the gaskets o-rings and springs and all seals. Or is the one from atkins about the cheapest it gets.
#6
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i am in the same boat as you. i am currently rebuilding my engine. i can tell you just check to see what you need first. luckily for me all i needed extra was the stationary gear bearings along with the rebuild kit. i chose mazda oem for my rebuild. the cheapest way is not always the best way. you might need a whole lot of parts. your core might be unuseable.
#7
Passing life by
Do it right spend the money or do it cheep twice.
I suggest all OEM components on the rotors. I use the the solid corner seals only on very large port motors. The other soft seals can be purchased anywhere really I actually like the Teflon encapsulated coolant orings over the Teflon liner as they yield to more abuse. Use only OEM oil control rings if you replace them. Most of the time the oil control springs are reusable but I suggest always replacing springs and hard seals. If you have a very large port the Hurley duplex seals yield to more abuse from the port transfer compared to the flat sharp seals of OEM and others but do not use there other products stick OEM.
I suggest all OEM components on the rotors. I use the the solid corner seals only on very large port motors. The other soft seals can be purchased anywhere really I actually like the Teflon encapsulated coolant orings over the Teflon liner as they yield to more abuse. Use only OEM oil control rings if you replace them. Most of the time the oil control springs are reusable but I suggest always replacing springs and hard seals. If you have a very large port the Hurley duplex seals yield to more abuse from the port transfer compared to the flat sharp seals of OEM and others but do not use there other products stick OEM.
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#8
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i am rebuilding the car and looking for around 300rwhp. fom the reasearch i have found looks like ill need 720cc sec injectors, upgraded FP, some type of feul management. Would a streetport be needed or FMIC?
#9
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definitly listen to iceblue. that is what i did, use OEM stuff as much as possible.
i would go with a mild street port, really just smooth out the port so the air flows smoothly over it. you dont want to mess with overlap too much or you will have problems with egts. if you increase intake, with a turbo, you could get blow-by.
front mount is your choice, i am using methanol on a stock IC until i go big turbo.
i would go with a mild street port, really just smooth out the port so the air flows smoothly over it. you dont want to mess with overlap too much or you will have problems with egts. if you increase intake, with a turbo, you could get blow-by.
front mount is your choice, i am using methanol on a stock IC until i go big turbo.
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