DomFD3S

In regards to the previous post about the use of carb cleaner inside a rotary engine. I had done some research. I had previously argued that the use of carb cleaner in a rotary engine may be detrimental to the internals. Well, I currently have found ONE engine builder who has used carb cleaner and possibly recommends it. Below is an excerpt taken from the Atkins Rotary website under the Engines Q&A section:

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>Hello, my name is Luke
>I have a mazda that would not start, it turns, but doesn't sound like the
>rotar in the engine is turning, because it was in storage for about 6
>months, and we took it out to drive for about 2 months, then one morning it just didn't start at all. I found no previous problem or mechanical warning prior to it not starting. The car only has 63M . We checked all the electrical, and emission system it seem to be in working order. could you give us some advice as to what we can check or what might be wrong. please let us know before we purchase a wrong thing.
>
>This is the car I have 1989 Mazda RX-7 convertible, automatic transmission, non turbo, 13b engine type, 1.3 liter, power everything.thanks



Sam,

it sounds like the engine is carbon locked .Try this:

Carbon is a result of the combustion process in the rotary engine. If poor fuel, spark plugs or wires are bad etc. - excessive build up can happen, and cause problems. In Long storage the carbon dries up and flakes off. Some times this will jam the seals in a no compression state or in yours which is a lock up. The local dealer will use a reverse starter on the engine to try and free it - if it doesn't work you need an engine. When we ran our auto shop we found a better way but sometimes would take awhile. Get some AMSOIL Power foam. Its an engine degreaser and carb cleaner. Spray this in the carb, and in Both TOP spark plug holes. Let sit a day and try with a breaker bar to move it. You may need to repeat the process several times- just get it to move a little bit each time. You will need to change the spark plugs - be sure to Use NGK BR8EQ-14. Be sure to have a strong battery, and once the car is started keep it running (lots of smoke will result due to the chemicals used but it will not hurt the catalytic converters). I would also suggest on your first drive to keep the RPMS up around 4-5,000 to help blow everything out. Follow up with a gas treatment of BG (brand) 44K fuel injection cleaner (OK to use in Carb applications, as it will clean any residue from the tank to the engine, and help remove any remaining carbon) It is OK to use the 44K every 6 months to keep the carbon build up to a minimum.

Where can I find Amsoil Products?

Amsoil is sold through a network of Dealers nationwide. Go to www.amsoil.com for the nearest dealer,

Where can I get BG products such as the 44K?

BG products are sold to the Professional user, such as OEM Dealerships , call a local new manufacture auto dealer and ask the service dept. if they have the 44K or the fuel drier. If not we would be happy to sell you some. 16.95 for the 44K and 3.50 for the fuel drier add 6.50 for ground shipping.



How can I prevent the carbon lock?

1) Never shut the car off before the idle drops off of the enrichment system (choke)

2) Do Tune Ups every 10-12,000 miles and only use NGK Spark Plugs - Change the air & Fuel filters at this time.

3) Unless driving a turbo - use the lowest to mid grade of fuel at a good service station. Here in the Puyallup / Tacoma / Seattle area of Washington state that means Texaco and Chevron. Both of these companies dedicate their expertise in using the min. amount of oxygenate additives and add other chemicals (like Textron) to help the additives burn. If using Supreme or hi octane in a non turbo, the higher octane makes it more difficult to burn all of the fuel allowing for excessive carbon. Turbo or supercharged cars need the slower burning fuels to prevent pinging or knocking which is very hard on the apex seals.

4) Use the BG 44k fuel injection cleaner every 4-6 months (more if all city driving or just short distances- less if mostly freeway miles)

Sorry for the long reply, but thought it was all helpful info.

Kathy
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I found the excerpt to be very informative. Just thought I would let everyone know about this recent finding.

von

Wow that was really informative..I will start using 87 in my rotory now and change the fuel filter more often. THNX

Amur_

Anybody heard of these plugs before and have some 411 to share on them?

And thanks for sharing. I did the CC thing with a vacuum line last week (as you can read in the prior CC thread) and was very pleased with the results. Right up until a coolant line blew, anway... ;D

ttyl,
Amur_

RETed

BG products are not typically sold to the public.&nbsp Most full service stations will carry BG stuff - just ask your neighborhood full service station.

Amsoil, I do not like - specifically synthetic oil in the "crankcase."



-Ted

jimmyv13

The NGK BR8EQ-14 is the recommended plug for the 1st gen 12A. I have no clue as to why the dude is suggesting them in the 2nd gen

Does anyone use these plugs in their 2nd gen?

mazdaspeed7

Look at the references to carbs in the original message. I think it was aimed at 1st gens, even though the car in question was a 2nd gen.

NZConvertible

You don't like Amsoil or you don't like synthetics?

RETed

I don't like Amsoil with the stock OMP intact.&nbsp Ask IWNTA20B about his engine rebuild with Amsoil running in the "crankcase."


-Ted

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Back from the dead like a ****. I am currently running Amsoil Series 2000 20w50 in my motor, with the MOP duty cycle turned up via the datalogit.

Ted, what is/was the problem?

RETed

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/synth.html


-Ted