2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Re-Stab CAS

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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 12:59 PM
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Re-Stab CAS

After a minivan beat me... I have decided to thoroughly go through my engine and find any vaccuum leak or anything that could be wrong... and my timing is pretty off, but I have to restab the CAS to get it right on. So here is my question
In step 4 of the Haynes manual it just states
"Rotate the eccentric shaft pulley clockwise until the leading (yellow) mark on the edge of the pulley id alighned with the pointer on the front cover"
Okay, thats cool and all but how the heck to I move the pulley?


Its a noob question, but this step is also somewhat vague.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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Take the car out of gear and rotate the pulley, I always just grab the belt and pull it to turn it over
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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^^ agreed... just yank on the bel
these engines are soooo easy to turn over
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kouta
After a minivan beat me... .
Lol, that's great! In fairness I believe a Honda Odyssey should be able to beat an n/a fair and square. The rate of performance increase has been astounding in the last few years.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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Haha, well i'm not N/A...
1990 GXL with TII swap, rb downpipe to test pipe to greddy power extreme catback, lightened flywheel, all emmissions removed....
It sucked big time but thanks, i didn't wanna just yank on something and break it :p
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Ugh...
So I got it to stop pulsing at idle, but it was at about 1200rpm.
I took it for a test drive and it pulled nicely.
Seeing how easy it was to do that... i decided to try and drop my idle a bit down.
Well after screwing with the idle adjustment I couldn't get it to stop pulsing...
I still can't the only way that I can get it to stop pulsing is setting the timing to be on T1, but that makes L1 off (like 1/2 way between the yellow and orange marks).
Now I can't get it to back the way I had it ><
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 03:38 PM
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Well I just wen't out and restabbed the CAS one more time (because its like tilted so when it goes in it like moves on ya, this time i made it so its all good) and it pulls hard again, but when I got my clutch down, it pulses... but I am just going to chalk that up to the ECU advancing the timing that, then retarding it because it dosn't know whats up... anyone know what sensor that is that like senses the rpm or whatever?
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 04:17 PM
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hey what does restabbing the CAS do? And is restabbing it just taking it out and putting it back in? Sorry im a newb to cars in general.. not just wankels
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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From: bay area
Are you checking timing with all other electrical loads disabled (ground single test connector I believe)? What does your car idle at with all electrical loads off? How is the mechanical idle? Did you set the TPS?
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
Are you checking timing with all other electrical loads disabled (ground single test connector I believe)? What does your car idle at with all electrical loads off? How is the mechanical idle? Did you set the TPS?
The TPS is set. There is as little electical load on the car as I can. Mechanical idle? I only have the idle screw on the throttle body. The BAC isn't on the car anymore.
Restabbing the CAS is only something you have to do when you cant get the timing to be right by just rotating the cas. So you take it out, then reinsert it the way its supposed to be, really extremely simple.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Kouta
Well I just wen't out and restabbed the CAS one more time (because its like tilted so when it goes in it like moves on ya.........
The CAS has a gear that meshes together with a bevel gear on the crank shaft. The angle of the teeth cause the CAS gear to rotate slightly as they go together. To avoid this, remove the black cover off the top of the cas. Now line the dot up with the mark on the shaft. Without rotating the gear, look inside the CAS where you removed the cover from. You will see two pointers that are 180 degrees away from each other. These rotate with the gear. Without moving the gear, mark one of the pointers, and mark the housing directly across form it. Now when you drop the CAS in the engine and it rotates, you can rotate the housing while the gear stays still, and you will have a reference inside the CAS to look at so you know when the marks on the gear and the shaft are lined up without having to pull the CAS out and stab it back in a bunch of times to try to get it to drop without moving.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Project84
Without moving the gear, mark one of the pointers, and mark the housing directly across form it. Now when you drop the CAS in the engine and it rotates, you can rotate the housing while the gear stays still, and you will have a reference inside the CAS to look at so you know when the marks on the gear and the shaft are lined up without having to pull the CAS out and stab it back in a bunch of times to try to get it to drop without moving.
Good info thanks, for some reason I didn't even think about that. Oh well its good now, just need to get it to stop pulsing.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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you did not set the tps correctly then........
do you have the t2 afm/ecu/press sensor too?

take the plug, so that clip thingy is on top... then do a the two pins on the right... hook the two up and use that for TPS adjustment....
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