Re-Stab CAS
07-01-05, 12:59 PM
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Re-Stab CAS
After a minivan beat me... I have decided to thoroughly go through my engine and find any vaccuum leak or anything that could be wrong... and my timing is pretty off, but I have to restab the CAS to get it right on. So here is my question
In step 4 of the Haynes manual it just states
"Rotate the eccentric shaft pulley clockwise until the leading (yellow) mark on the edge of the pulley id alighned with the pointer on the front cover"
Okay, thats cool and all but how the heck to I move the pulley?
Its a noob question, but this step is also somewhat vague.
In step 4 of the Haynes manual it just states
"Rotate the eccentric shaft pulley clockwise until the leading (yellow) mark on the edge of the pulley id alighned with the pointer on the front cover"
Okay, thats cool and all but how the heck to I move the pulley?
Its a noob question, but this step is also somewhat vague.
07-01-05, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kouta
After a minivan beat me... .
07-01-05, 01:29 PM
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Haha, well i'm not N/A...
1990 GXL with TII swap, rb downpipe to test pipe to greddy power extreme catback, lightened flywheel, all emmissions removed....
It sucked big time
but thanks, i didn't wanna just yank on something and break it :p
1990 GXL with TII swap, rb downpipe to test pipe to greddy power extreme catback, lightened flywheel, all emmissions removed....
It sucked big time
but thanks, i didn't wanna just yank on something and break it :p
07-01-05, 02:49 PM
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Ugh...
So I got it to stop pulsing at idle, but it was at about 1200rpm.
I took it for a test drive and it pulled nicely.
Seeing how easy it was to do that... i decided to try and drop my idle a bit down.
Well after screwing with the idle adjustment I couldn't get it to stop pulsing...
I still can't the only way that I can get it to stop pulsing is setting the timing to be on T1, but that makes L1 off (like 1/2 way between the yellow and orange marks).
Now I can't get it to back the way I had it ><
So I got it to stop pulsing at idle, but it was at about 1200rpm.
I took it for a test drive and it pulled nicely.
Seeing how easy it was to do that... i decided to try and drop my idle a bit down.
Well after screwing with the idle adjustment I couldn't get it to stop pulsing...
I still can't the only way that I can get it to stop pulsing is setting the timing to be on T1, but that makes L1 off (like 1/2 way between the yellow and orange marks).
Now I can't get it to back the way I had it ><
07-01-05, 03:38 PM
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Well I just wen't out and restabbed the CAS one more time (because its like tilted so when it goes in it like moves on ya, this time i made it so its all good) and it pulls hard again, but when I got my clutch down, it pulses... but I am just going to chalk that up to the ECU advancing the timing that, then retarding it because it dosn't know whats up... anyone know what sensor that is that like senses the rpm or whatever?
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07-01-05, 04:54 PM
#9
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Are you checking timing with all other electrical loads disabled (ground single test connector I believe)? What does your car idle at with all electrical loads off? How is the mechanical idle? Did you set the TPS?
07-01-05, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
Are you checking timing with all other electrical loads disabled (ground single test connector I believe)? What does your car idle at with all electrical loads off? How is the mechanical idle? Did you set the TPS?
Restabbing the CAS is only something you have to do when you cant get the timing to be right by just rotating the cas. So you take it out, then reinsert it the way its supposed to be, really extremely simple.
07-01-05, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Kouta
Well I just wen't out and restabbed the CAS one more time (because its like tilted so when it goes in it like moves on ya.........
07-01-05, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Project84
Without moving the gear, mark one of the pointers, and mark the housing directly across form it. Now when you drop the CAS in the engine and it rotates, you can rotate the housing while the gear stays still, and you will have a reference inside the CAS to look at so you know when the marks on the gear and the shaft are lined up without having to pull the CAS out and stab it back in a bunch of times to try to get it to drop without moving.
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