Rats nest delete help
04-08-12, 11:01 AM
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Rats nest delete help
I Found this thread on deleting the emissions but im confused on where to connect the oil catch can. This thread says you only need to worry about the two nipples on the oil filler neck. Is this correct?
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...hreadid=112251
If you have done this please help. If you havve any pics you can share please post them.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...hreadid=112251
If you have done this please help. If you havve any pics you can share please post them.
04-09-12, 08:51 PM
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If you read the thread i posted youll notice that it mentions the 2 nipples on the oil filler neck for s5 T2. Ive heard of a couple of different set ups including this one. The oil catch can is to replace the pcv valve as far as i can tell. So why not follow the rats nest to where the pcv valve line ends and begins? Im just not sure if thats the right thing to do.
04-09-12, 09:06 PM
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Just in case the link i posted doesnt work.
REMOVING THE SOLENOID RACK
This is the tricky part of the equation. It's not super hard, but it will require some creativity and understanding to do. Again, the only reason to do this is to clean up the engine bay and get something else that doesn't need to be there outta there.
On top of the engine is the metal vacuum spider - a maze of metal vacuum lines. The majority of these are emissions-related. You have to remove the upper intake manifold to have access. Mind, I'll try to note the differences, but there's quite a few differences from '86-88 and '89-91, as well as NA and Turbo.
Easiest way to describe this is what you'll need when it's all done.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - this is on the end of the primary fuel rail. There is a nipple on the lower intake manifold pointing towards the firewall that is its vacuum source. When in doubt, check the vacuum diagram in the shop manual - stock, the source nipple connects to the vacuum spider, goes to the orange solenoid, then back to the FPR. The only thing the solenoid does is switch the FPR's vacuum reference from vacuum to atmospheric pressure. There is NO DIFFERENCE in driveability or starting with the solenoid not there.
OIL METERING INJECTORS - each of the 4 injectors has a vacuum line that connects to a round gang block, and from there it connects with a larger vacuum hose to the upper intake manifold.
PRIMARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - there is a vacuum nipple in the middle of the bottom of the intake manfold, near where the primary injectors are. This vacuum hose goes to the upper intake manifold. This line actually pulls vacuum from *before* the throttle plates, and uses this differential pressure to help atomize fuel at certain conditions. This is a Good Thing. Just run the hose like stock, and make sure it goes to the same vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold as stock.
SECONDARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - this is only on the '89-91 cars. There is a vacuum line going between the two secondary injector's bleed sockets, and another one sticking out to the side of the #2 secondary injector. Leave that vacuum line, and hook the side nipple up to the upper intake manifold like stock. Again, this is to help with atomization.
PCV SYSTEM - now we're getting complicated . This is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation System, which is there because the oiling system generates pressure which needs to be bled off - it can't be a sealed system. Stock, the system is fed back into the intake, and some residual oil is pulled into the intake, dirtying intercoolers and throttle bodies . On the TurboII, the nipples to be concerned with are just below the oil fill cap, and where the oil fill neck meets the block. The NA's only have the one where the fill neck meets the block (I think). This HAS to be vented - if you cap it up, you will pressurize the crankcase, which can lead to smoking and all kinds of weird problems. Venting it to atmosphere is the easiest solution, but will over time make a mess, as excess oil comes out of the nipple. The right way is to use a catch can that has a filter on it to catch the excess blow-by. Jaz makes a tiny catchcan that works great - Jeg's carries it.
FUEL LINES - you will be running the fuel lines along a longer run. Run a line from the fuel filter to the primary fuel rail, and run a line from the secondary fuel rail to the metal nipple that heads back to the tank. Use ONLY fuel injection rated hose, 5/16" ID, and you need about 6 feet worth to do the job. Zip tie the hoses together and keep it tidy - you don't want them rubbing against things or the like.
SOLENOID PLUGS - when you remove all the solenoids, you will have a number of spare plugs. The ECU doesn't care at all - you won't get a code or anything. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere.
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID - this is only on '89-91 Turbos. If you're at the point where you're removing the solenoid rack, your car is modified, and you need to ditch this anyhow - it will give you some serious overboosting problems. Remove it, and cap the hole on the turbo inlet duct and the nipple on the metal hard line that feeds the wastegate actuator.
That's all I have off the top of my head . If I think of other issues, I'll post - if you have any questions, I'll see if I can help.
Dale
REMOVING THE SOLENOID RACK
This is the tricky part of the equation. It's not super hard, but it will require some creativity and understanding to do. Again, the only reason to do this is to clean up the engine bay and get something else that doesn't need to be there outta there.
On top of the engine is the metal vacuum spider - a maze of metal vacuum lines. The majority of these are emissions-related. You have to remove the upper intake manifold to have access. Mind, I'll try to note the differences, but there's quite a few differences from '86-88 and '89-91, as well as NA and Turbo.
Easiest way to describe this is what you'll need when it's all done.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - this is on the end of the primary fuel rail. There is a nipple on the lower intake manifold pointing towards the firewall that is its vacuum source. When in doubt, check the vacuum diagram in the shop manual - stock, the source nipple connects to the vacuum spider, goes to the orange solenoid, then back to the FPR. The only thing the solenoid does is switch the FPR's vacuum reference from vacuum to atmospheric pressure. There is NO DIFFERENCE in driveability or starting with the solenoid not there.
OIL METERING INJECTORS - each of the 4 injectors has a vacuum line that connects to a round gang block, and from there it connects with a larger vacuum hose to the upper intake manifold.
PRIMARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - there is a vacuum nipple in the middle of the bottom of the intake manfold, near where the primary injectors are. This vacuum hose goes to the upper intake manifold. This line actually pulls vacuum from *before* the throttle plates, and uses this differential pressure to help atomize fuel at certain conditions. This is a Good Thing. Just run the hose like stock, and make sure it goes to the same vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold as stock.
SECONDARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - this is only on the '89-91 cars. There is a vacuum line going between the two secondary injector's bleed sockets, and another one sticking out to the side of the #2 secondary injector. Leave that vacuum line, and hook the side nipple up to the upper intake manifold like stock. Again, this is to help with atomization.
PCV SYSTEM - now we're getting complicated . This is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation System, which is there because the oiling system generates pressure which needs to be bled off - it can't be a sealed system. Stock, the system is fed back into the intake, and some residual oil is pulled into the intake, dirtying intercoolers and throttle bodies . On the TurboII, the nipples to be concerned with are just below the oil fill cap, and where the oil fill neck meets the block. The NA's only have the one where the fill neck meets the block (I think). This HAS to be vented - if you cap it up, you will pressurize the crankcase, which can lead to smoking and all kinds of weird problems. Venting it to atmosphere is the easiest solution, but will over time make a mess, as excess oil comes out of the nipple. The right way is to use a catch can that has a filter on it to catch the excess blow-by. Jaz makes a tiny catchcan that works great - Jeg's carries it.
FUEL LINES - you will be running the fuel lines along a longer run. Run a line from the fuel filter to the primary fuel rail, and run a line from the secondary fuel rail to the metal nipple that heads back to the tank. Use ONLY fuel injection rated hose, 5/16" ID, and you need about 6 feet worth to do the job. Zip tie the hoses together and keep it tidy - you don't want them rubbing against things or the like.
SOLENOID PLUGS - when you remove all the solenoids, you will have a number of spare plugs. The ECU doesn't care at all - you won't get a code or anything. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere.
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID - this is only on '89-91 Turbos. If you're at the point where you're removing the solenoid rack, your car is modified, and you need to ditch this anyhow - it will give you some serious overboosting problems. Remove it, and cap the hole on the turbo inlet duct and the nipple on the metal hard line that feeds the wastegate actuator.
That's all I have off the top of my head . If I think of other issues, I'll post - if you have any questions, I'll see if I can help.
Dale
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05-05-12, 03:41 PM
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What about the charcoal can? What do i do about the line that goes to the chatcoal canister? I think its connected to the check and cut valve. Is it Ok to just disconnect that line and let it dump into the atmosphere?
Thats it..
everything..
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