kevino

Believe it or not my rebuilt engine, which is only a little over a year old, has a front water seal going bad. How could this happen already you ask? Well just about every single component of my cooling system went bad after I installed the engine and overheated it every time. First the upper radiater hose blew, then the O-ring in the filler neck blew out, then my heater core became clogged, then the heater hose blew, then my clutchfan went bad and now the seals. Needless to say, my AAA card came in handy. I can't afford to get another engine so I am going to rebuild it myself. I just have a couple of preliminary questions. 1. Considering the engine is still fairly new, will I be able to reuse any seals, especially the apex and side seals (I'd rather not mess with the rotors too much), or will I have to replace all seals. 2. Is it possible to start pulling the engine apart from the front or will I have to start from the back. 3. What kind of special tools will I need and where can I get them. 4. How frustrated will I become half way through the process. Very, I assume.

t h a n k s
kev

1adzam

If you don't have many miles on the apex seals you can re-use them. Break the engine down back to front.... there's alot of reasons why. Do yourself a favor and get an engines stand. Makes the job about 10x easier. While the engine is apart, take everything out and thoroughly clean all parts. Take measurements of the parts to see what is within OEM tolerance. Depending on who did your rebuild (I am assuming you didn't) you probably find most parts are reusable. It's not that hard to rebuild. Get the video from Atkins on rebuilds. Worth the money and saves on the ag factor!

Mr. Gadget

1. Invest in a few tools to measure the seals and such. Since you did not rebuild it the first time you really don't know whats in there untill you pop it open.
2. not an option - some have tried to replace only back half seals. Some were lucky others not. Once you split an iron from a rotor housing, the seal must be replaced. And whats to say the back seals are in perfect order. My advise, just replace all seals whenever you pop open a motor.
3. 2 1/8 socket, caliper and very long breaker bar & cheater bar (SEARS), micrometer/calipers feeler guage (ebay), engine stand (harbor freight) and mounting adapter (I made my last 5) torque wrench (sears or ebay) 23MM wrench (sears) and I would reccomond the tape from atkins as well for first timers. Anything else are considered general hand tools. (others - did I miss anything?)
4. Frustration will come from finding other things that are broke, the time it takes, and the money you dont have to do fun things.

Mr. Gadget

In my comments above I meant to say replace all o-rings when you pop open a motor.

kevino

So, Mr Gadget, what is your opinion on reusing the apex and side seals, replace them? I am probably going to replace everything anyway. BTW, Atkins are the people who rebuilt this motor, so I think they probably used quality parts.

definitely getting the video.

t h a n k s,
kev

Mr. Gadget

Kev,
My position with every engine I do is th check the specs of every component. You just never know.

gadget

kevino

Mr. Gadget, that four rotor engine picture is crazy

Mr. Gadget

Thanks, my son found it for me. i have seen better here.

dr0x

I think it was atkins who has been putting out quite a few bad motors for a few months there... go over to nopistons.com and search the engine building forum for some threads about them.