Ok here is my problem let me start by saying i am glad to be in a forum again. Well i just got this car and i knew there was a problem with it but for the price i couldnt let it go. The car starts then dies. I am thinking that i could be the fuel filter but i know NOTHING about the 7's. I was just thinking about doing a jdm turbo swap. I found a place does anyone know about them? http://www.tokyomotorimports.com/ I know you might say go out and look but i really dont know where things are and i dont want to mess anything up. Thanks for you help

 

it is most likely not your filter. THere is a rectangle connector beneath and behind the air box that connects to your MAF sensor. This sensor is attached to the filter box by four screws and on the other end is attached to the corrugated plastic pipe that leads to the throttle body.

The DRIVERS side of this sensor is a connector. It is about 2 inches long and half an inch high. If it comes loose, the vehicle will act exactly as you describe it.

If this is not it, then we can try something else.

P.S. Turbo swaps are expensive, aggravating, and expensive. Just learn the car as it is, and when you know the car inside and out, then it will be time to consider a swap.

Rob

 

It's possible that the connector on the AFM is in place, but that the unit has just gone bad as well. Getting a used one will be cheap; just don't try getting a brand new one from mazda. You will have a heart attack when they quote you a price.

And I second what wvumtnbkr said about swapping in a turbo motor. If you're brand new to these cars, you will never get the car running. There are just too many little things that will get overlooked.

Instead, get yourself a good exhaust system and learn all you can about the auxilliary port activation. A lot of S4s are driving around with non-functional systems that are costing them power. Just search for "6PI" "aux ports" "6 ports" etc...Get some experience with the car before you get in over your head.

 

Man i thought i was going to get slammed but i will try it tomorrow when i get a chance i hope it is something really cheap and easy to fix i will give you a update when i can thanks again

 

I doubt the AFM is the problem, usually the AFM and ECUs hardly ever fail.

What it sounds like is a blown fuel pump. I've had 2 cars that have done the same thing and both were fuel pump. Check the fuel issue first before anything else, pull off the main fuel line from the fuel rail and have someone crank for like a split second to see if fuel sprays out of the line. If not, start checking in this order.
EGI Main fuse (s5), EGI Inj (s4). Check the fuse visually and with a multimeter to make sure its not blown. Check the EGI Main Relay located on the drivers side fender on the right hand side of the Trailing Coils. Its a gold box with a couple connectors coming off of it. Next, check the fuel pump connector behind the drivers side REAR strut tower, you have to pull back the carpeting. Check for voltage at that connector. If all those check out the fuel pump is blown.

Now. If that still doesn't solve your no idle...check to make sure your Throttle Position Sensor is in adjustment. Refer to the online Factory Service Manual, or a Haynes manual (I think its in there?). It will tell you what to do and how to do it.

If it still doesn't idle, start checking for vacuum leaks. Check around the intake, throttle body and other hoses and what not. You can do this by spraying propane, or carb cleaner or starting fluid around these areas. The RPMs should spike if you spray in a spot where there is a vacuum leak.

NOW, if all else fails try swapping out the AFM.

MAKE SURE THE FLAPPER IN THE AFM MOVES FREELY. If the flapper is seized it will choke the engine off and act like that. Make sure the flapper springs back and forth without having to unstick it.

 

hmmm thanks for the info i will try it all and get back with the answer to what was wrong!

 

Although I totally agree with the bad fuel pump theory (had it happen). I feel it is much more likely that somebody bumped or took off the connector to the AFM (MAF) while changing the filter for example.

Either way, it is easier to check a connector, then to check the fuel pump/fuel pump wiring.

Exhaust both of these opportunities and then report back your findings.

 

If the little metal clip is still in the connector then it will never fall off or get bumped off. If the metal clip has been removed it may fall off.

No problem, good luck. Make sure you check the compression too...don't make the same mistake I did.