Grunswald

As you may have seen previously, i've started removing the emission system but as it was much more difficult than i thought, i've pur it back in place.

But now i have some problems.

First the boost pressure:
I've start by removing the BAC valve but i had a really bad idle and then wanted to put back in place the BAC but the hose in between the BAC and the intercooler piping was cracked and therefor was leaking. so i tryed to cap the hole in the intercooler and drove with a block off plate instead of the BAC. at this time the boost pressure was going from -0.8 to 0.5 bar which is lower than the usual (-0.4 to 0.7) and i also think that the pressure builds up slower than before. So when i replaced the cracked hose and realize that the cap on the intercooler piping went off. So when i put back the BAC and its hose, i thought the pressure would come back as before. But it didn't.

My guess are that the turbo's piping is cracked somewhere else or the turbo is brocken. I clearly hear a big whistle when i go high in the rpm, so i suppose that the turbo is still spinning and building up pressure. On the flip side i don't really know where the piping could be damaged, i only worked on the pipe with the tapping for the BAC and for the BOV and then on the intercooler piping... that i would have broke by throwing all the tools on it when working on the car... Your guess ?

second problem, the oil pressure:
When i was running without BAC, when the car was completely warmed up, with the oil above 60-70°C, the oil pressure went down to 1bar or even lower at idle instead of my usual 2bar. But when driving the pressure was going back to 4 bar as always. So the thing is that i have two oil gauge. The stock one, and an after market one installed on a sandwich plate (brand zenki). so the aftermarket one has good reputation and seems to work correctly. So no that i put back the BAC, at idle the stock gauge is giving me 2bar and the aftermarket one gives 1bar...

on this one i have absolutely no clue... hope it's linked in someway to the turbo issue but can't say much... again, do you have any idea ?

bonus stage, ecu error code:
i wanted to check if i was some error code and then remove them to rerun the car and check what was going on. so i put a jumper on the battery - and on the green single connector next to the battery. But when i turn on the key, i can't see nothing. the engine light, is the one on the upper left corner on the center bezel normally ? cause i've seen on one tuto that it should always light up before starting the engine, and then on another one it says that if there is no problem it should always be off. So what should it be ?

i think i will give it to the mechanic this week... i'm really scared

hiroichi1515

iTrader: (17)

For your 1st issue I highly think its a boost leak somewhere. I had the same problem, a bunch of times. Once the piping directly connected to the turbo. Another time a pipe blew off under boost but came back together when I got off of it and also the BOV opening to soon and letting out boost from not enough tension.

As for you second issue, I have no idea. I am quit confused with the way you explained it but I might have just read it to fast.

Hope this helps is someway.

Grunswald

I hope you're right for the first point. For the second one basically i've lost 1 bar of oil Pressure when i'm at idle. But when driving the pressure come back at a normal pressure (4bar).

Grunswald

little update, i brought the car to my mechanic this afternoon, i talk to him for a good 30 min in order to tell him what i did, what are the symptoms etc... For him, the turbo is fine and maybe the oil pump as well. He is more thinking about a weakness in the electrical system that would result in fake readings on the gauges (digital gauges). because there is no way for the negative pressure to get lower and if the turbo was fucked or even the piping cracked somewhere, the pressure loss would be much more important. Also, it would explain why the car is a bit harder to start those days...