well i was out messin with my car , and I realized that the window motors on both windows are dying on me...The windows roll down very fast but going up they stop at about mid point and i have to help it up.

Where can I find new motors at ?

 

The motors themselves rarely go bad. Usually you just need to clean and lube the tracks and regulators. If they are bad after all, I've got a set I just pulled out of a parts car...

 

What should I use to lube/clean the rails etc.?

 

I am in the middle of battling this myself. I removed the drivers side Regulator, and flushed it with carb cleaner, then dried and used Lithium grease to re-grease it with. Seemed to work, but not as well as I would have hoped..

 

switch contacts would be the next thing to check after lueing the track. If the contacts get too carbonized the windows get real real slow

 

Checked that too with a known good switch..

 

One thing that I had to pay close attention to after rebuilding my cables, was that the guides were "straight". Through rebuilding , testing, etc. I had either set something on the guide, or just didn't notice, but there was an indent on one of them. Straightened it out, and now its fine. Like Ice said though, just a little bit of carbon build up will slow it down. One more thing, if your cables have become loose, not enought tension, it will also cause the "slow" effect.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Yeah, I was looking for your writeup, but for some reason I could not find it.

 

i was about to post a thread on the SAME subject...

my old 87 turbo ii's divers side window did the same thing

the one i about about to get has the same exact problem with both sides, another 87 tii.

what the hell?!

 

I have a problem with me power windows! ok so my drivers side switch and pass switch buttons are FUBAR so I end up buying the passenger side switch and it doesnt work! I think it might be because driverside switch has a button to disable pass side. Is there anyway to bi-pass this?

 

Just use manual windows! Seriously, though, cleaning the contacts would prob help. Buildup of various forms hampers current flow, etc. The fact that it slows down halfway makes it sound like its a combination of that and something impeding the window movement. Possibly something stuck in the track, or a dent like mombo said.

 

Thanks Sideways, but before you go about rebuilding, take Ice's advice. Cleaning these S.O.B. 's first is 99% the solution. It worked for me, before my cable snapped. And as he also stated previously, if the driver's side is "carbon-ed up, dirty" pass side won't work. Have to have driver's working properly for pass to work, wiring thing. Hope it works.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Yea, I hate power windows. I was going to convert from power to manual but my car just died. Manual windows are convenient cause they have less wieght(correct me if I'm wrong). Also, when you take the key out of your car, you can still roll up or down, no need to turn it on again. But yea, if you're greasing the motor gears, gl with the last panels, it is a pain (lots of nuts).

 

I hope that you got the windows working. I spent so much time getting mine correct, I'm always checking to see how it went. Get if fixed? I'm still a moron when it comes to posting my write up, but if you can't locate it, let me know, I'll get it to you guys.

PEACE THE DOG

 

I cleaned mine and it made a big difference.


then my cable snapped as did the dog's.... and my passenger cable is all fubar- with the cable starting to untwist and break..

I'm about to try jchuang97's bicycle cable fix.
The cables are perfect size and flexibilty- we'll see how it goes....

oh dog- hope ya don't mind- here's your write up/ pictures

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/power-window-regulator-cable-rebuild-job-489025/



|M|

 

Mordachi, you da man. Thanks bro. I don't mind a bit. If you have any questions, let me know. As stated in write up, cable lenghts pretty critical. Like she said, just one more inch please. hehehhe


PEACE THE DOG

 

well i sprayed down the rails a good amount and cleaned the contacts seemed to get a little better. When the door panel is off the window seems to go up and down pretty good, going up it still has a little hesitation midway. But when door panel is on it goes down fast but up it gets compleley stuck and goes very slow...

 

cls6888, did you actually remove the regulator and rails completely, including the glass? The reason I ask, is that there is a particular way to put the assembly back in, including the plastic clip that holds the the sleeves where the cables are inside. I will look to see if I have a couple photos of what I am referring to.

PEACE THE DOG

 

no I didnt remove the rails and everything , just sprayed em down and wiped em pretty good also cleaned all the contacts with contact cleaner. My question is could it be a alternator problem..? my door open alarm is a real quit beep and the car doesnt want to start after 3 days of sitting. with door or hood open? Also it has a brand new battery and plugs and wires .

 

and when i say doesnt want to start i mean no click or anything.

 

mine does the same thing, goes down fine, gets caught half way and takes a really long time to go up. it doesn't happen all the time though.

i have a new alternator so thats not the problem. cls, i'd look at your grounds and wiring though.

 

cls888, looking from where the door panel is removed, the rails don't face the inside of the car, they face outwards. How did you spray the rails? Sounds like the windows are the least of your troubles my friend. Give more information, year , model, etc.

PEACE THE DOG

 

87' turbo II , never seen a winter . 80,000 miles. 0 rust very clean.

 

anyone got any ideas on the problem?

 

Hey cls6888, make sure your voltage is good or nothing else is going to work! My alt doesn't keep up with demand until about 900rpm. At a 750rpm idle my headlights dim, my efan slows down and my windows go up kind of slow. Once the voltage is up everything works perfectly.
I think most of us have had some kind of trouble with the power windows. Mine stuck pretty badly when I got my car so I went through them. I found that the switch contacts were completely covered with carbon. I cleaned them and found that the contact buttons were pretty much worn away. I got new switches and found that it worked reliably but was pretty lazy. I cleaned the old grease and gunk out of the cable, cable track, regulator and window track. I lubed the cable, cable track and reg with lithium spray grease and tri-flow. I used silicon spray lube in the window track. Then, just to be thorough, I took the cover off the motor and cleaned everything in there. It seemed like a lot of work at the time, but I'm sure it will work for 10-15 years or so before I have to look at it again.
While I was working on my windows I thought a lot about manual a manual window conversion. According to a friend who did the conversion, the overall weight reduction is about 9lbs. Most of that is in the inner door panels! The power window door panels have a nice flat steel brace tying the inner door handle to the inner door frame. The manual window inner door panels have no such reinforcement. Since my passengers have a tendancy to use the door handle while I drive, I wanted to be sure they wouldn't tear the door panel off thus I stayed with the power windows.