2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Power failure?

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Old Dec 30, 2002 | 09:11 AM
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Unhappy Power failure?

88 RX7
I was driving along and I heard a beeping, radio died and then came back on. This happened several times over a period of time.
After the car was parked, put the key in to start the car and nothing. No radio, no power, no clicking. nothing. Banged the door shut, put the key in and the car started. This happened several other times. Sometimes the car starts sometimes it won't. Anyone have an idea what is wrong?
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Old Dec 30, 2002 | 09:39 AM
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bad alt,

bad grounds
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Old Dec 30, 2002 | 12:02 PM
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Check battery terminals or just replace them, theyre about $4 at autozone.
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Old Dec 30, 2002 | 05:54 PM
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new alt. and battery but I'll check allv again. thanks
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 12:10 PM
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Checked battery connections. They are ok. I have lights, horn and key beeps in ignition. Nothing else.
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 12:19 PM
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have you checked battery connections at the underhood fuse box???

The car runs, right???
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 12:24 PM
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You might be going through the same thing I dealt with on Thursday. There is a thread titled "No Start Situation" where I described the problem.
In a nutshell, the only things I had power to were the headlight/dash lights and the ignition key reminder buzzer. The problem was a little black, one wire connector just below the fuse box and alongside the battery box. The plastic connector was broken and the terminals were dirty/corroded preventing the flow of electricity.
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 12:50 PM
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Checked battery connections. They are ok. I have lights, horn and key beeps in ignition. Nothing else.
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 01:01 PM
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The car was running 2 days ago. I'll keep plugging along.
Thanks
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 02:56 PM
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You should get a voltmeter and check out your ignition switch. ITs easy to get at, remove the 4 screws from the column cover and there it is. You need to see that you're getting proper voltage IN, and that when the key is turned that you get voltage out (everything that should work with key on only should now work). The electrical half of the switch is removable and replaceable. Sounds like you have main power (you can turn on lights, hear the key beep and blow the horn without turning the switch) but you are not getting power back out of the switch to everything else once it is turned.
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 02:58 PM
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That is EXACTLY what happened to my car, it was the ground. I bought a 2guage ground and ran it to the firewall, and spliced in the stock cable, haven't had a problem since....but my engine did just die so...(overboost, not electrical)

Michael
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 03:49 PM
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The problem was a little black, one wire connector just below the fuse box and alongside the battery box. The plastic connector was broken and the terminals were dirty/corroded preventing the flow of electricity.

Whoever gave me this info was right on. The wires were corroded. Replaced them. I am running again!
Thanks
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 06:07 PM
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Actually, you should thank "Hailers". He is the one that gave me the info two weeks ago.
Glad to hear it's running again (as I'm sure you were too ).

A quick question: After I cleaned an resecured it (zip ties to make sure it couldn't come apart (the female terminal needed to squeezed a little to grip the male terminal) I changed my spark plugs and oil (it was past due for both) and now I have the smoothest idle I've ever had and the charging system seems to be putting out a slightly higher voltage on the gauge (+.5volts). Have you noticed any similiar changes?

Last edited by opelbits; Jan 7, 2003 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 05:07 PM
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Decided to replace the wire connector. Have not done that yet. I will let you know after this weekend.
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