The SAFC is what he's referring to, and it works on any car, to my knowledge. You can pick up an SAFC for $150-200-ish and maybe get 10whp out of it. Worth it, imo.

 

An SAFC works with the stock AFM though, if you want to get rid of it or use another one, then you'll really need to get a standalone. With a standalone engine management computer you can run the car in speed-density or alpna-n modes where it computes the airflow indirectly rather than measuring it. This allows you to have no AFM to restrict the flow. The Megasquirt can do this for under $500, and there's a plug and play system availalbe on the forum here for the S4's.

 

woopadedoo, +1 for the volvo station wagon in your previous cars. +2 if it's a RWD Volvo wagon; I drove one of those for years before I got my 7

 

So do the parts I get from the Ford dealership.

 

When we talked to them about applying it to the FC AFM, they said as long as it outputted a linear signal, their unit could be used.
Too bad the FC AFM pulses...


Apples and oranges...
Others have built very strong running non-turbos while still using the stock AFM.
I dunno what kinda gains you're looking for, but the major restriction isn't the AFM, unless we're talking extemes here.


-Ted

 

Here is what happened to my last rwd volvo wagon. RIP.

That is what happens when you meet a suburban parked in the middle of the highway....

 

Whats the plug and play system?

 

That's not what happens when I meet a suburban parked in the middle of a highway, I tend to slow down or change lanes and go around. Odds are it's not parked in the middle of a highway all of a sudden. Remember the rest of the windows in your car are just there for changing lanes, not for going forward.

 

Zeal Megasquirt. Dunno if they're still in production or not though. The odd used one pops up from time to time though if they're not makign them anymore.

 

Mustang wheels=WIN.

Does he realize how many of us run Mustang wheels? What a dumbass.

 

Yes, he just thinks you're all ricers.

 

He's the one using an Apexi Neo (ohh!! flashy lights!!) and going to have it 'tuned by Steve Kan'

Lol.

 

nm

 

Thread pruned for flaming.

 

Yeah I know. I was on a two lane bridge comming over a hill driving into the sun. All the odds were against me. That volvo saved my life so I can be made fun of!! . Anyways.

I just found out my wife is prego, so all plans have changed. It will most likely turn into project MPG, as it looks I am getting a second job. Oh well....

 

Here are the common mods for good NA power without really hurting the low end:
Same bolt-ons as piston plus:
5th and 6th port activation
VDI
moderate street port
s5 (1989+) rotors, maybe.

Do a forum search for more info. Tuning with an SAFC, standalone, etc. will also add a good chunk of power but you risk hurting the engine if you go too far. The fuel system and drivetrain do not need upgrading to handle the power gains from the basic upgrades.

Also for handling:
same as other cars plus DTSS (search)
And as a Porsche owner I'll bet you'll appreciate the RX-7's 50:50 weight distribution and low moment of inertia. Plus other similarities. Mazda has had their eye on Porsche for a while.

 

I don't mean to come across as a dick, but you have not read the whole thread. I do not own a Porsche, and don't haver any plans of doing so. I worked on them, so now I know I would never want to own one. Porsche's do not handle that great. If you know how to drive one, you can make it go real fast on a track. Reason being is that you can take a different line into the corner. They apex at a different time. The weight distribution on a 911 is more like 40/60. If not worse.

There is no similarity's between a 911 and a rx-7.

-Stock a 911 will need major work around 60k (clutch, valve seals, maybe tranny rebuild)
-Take 911 engine apart and do everything you can to it and you maybe get 40hp.
-the only real way to increase power is through a turbo(s).
-Which is the same for any piston car
-go through and put suspension on it, and you it will cost you around 6k
-so in other works to make it faster and put suspension on it you are looking around 15k if not more.
-How many rx-7s can you buy for that?

 

That can be done too - there are a handful of people on the forum tuning for stoichiometric instead of tuning for HP, and they're putting down numbers like 30 mpg on a NA rotary with a piggyback controller (SAFC) or a standalone ecu.

 

I have to take a little issue with that, most piston cars (although not premium cars like Porsches which are fairly well setup from the factory) the big payoff HP combo is HCI (heads, cam, intake). You want to talk about only way to increase power, the stock smallblock Ford engine is a dog. 5 liters and 200-210 hp. With nice matched head, cam, intake setup, you can get to 350 or thereabouts before adding any kind of force induction. That's almost double the stock numbers.

 

My NA, which is a GTUs has great response and pull for stock ports, I can actually navigate uphills in 5th gear while accelerating without having to downshift (65-70 mph+ though)

What I would consider a basic upgrade list if you have an NA, (though especially potent for a GTUs)

Cone filter with heat shielding and tunnel for cold air
Full Exhaust (Collected or Road Race True Dual)
Rtek7 2.0
Keep the 5th/6th ports closed for as long as possible with the Rtek7
Make sure the VDI works

I currently run a stock airbox with a K&N drop-in, since I don't feel like cutting into my body to make a tunnel for cold air to enter. I also run RB's collected full exhaust system (headers, pre-silencer, catback), though I think the road race would give me even more low end pull at the expense of the high-end power. That's pretty much it, before you get into porting. I made three dyno pulls with the Rtek7, opening up the 5th/6th ports as early as possible, as late as possible and somewhere in the middle. My dyno pulls resulted in the late as possible setting resulted in the best low end repsonse. Timing is also a crucial part, as it lets you shift your powerband lower, a welcome aid for the rotary engine. I have about a 31 degree advance on my car, running 87 octane without any problems. At idle I'm still at 5 degrees ATDC, but I've seen my timing advance as high as 26-30 degrees BTDC. EMS is a key tool when it comes to making the most of what you have. When I played around with VDI settings, it seemed to make the most power wherever I left it, so I left it somewhere in the middle, near stock settings.

Depending on the air temp, I make between 153 - 167 whp on stock ports, with great pull from the low end. The EMS was responsible for giving me 12 whp. (Baseline: 141 whp, after tune: 153 whp, Stock settings the night before: 155 whp). Though now, with the temps cooling off even more, I should be in the 170 range.

 

This is exactly what I am going for now. Thank you!

 

I don't see the rtek for an s4....

 

Look harder.
(Stage 2)

 

If you have an S4, find a way to actuate your 5th/6th ports via an RPM switch. Keeping them closed in the low end contributes a lot to the low end pull of the car. Try to use S5 manifolds to take advantage of if you can, a S5 complete engine would be ideal.

 

What size are those mustang rims? And from what year mustang are those rims from?